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Lowering ejection port HELP!!

Discussion in 'GSSF' started by Rag Flyer, Dec 3, 2003.

  1. Rag Flyer

    Rag Flyer

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    Hey folks, it's the new little fish in the Unlimited pond here. I need some advice from all you bigger fish. I just took my stock model 34 and outfitted it with a Carver C-More mount and sight. (I chose the low mount, not the hunter style.) I am all ready for this weekend in San Antonio, except the gun is jamming due to brass getting wedged between the top of the slide and the bottom of the scope. Mr. Carver mentioned that the ejection port would likely need to be dropped by 1/10" inch, so please help me out here.
    Can I do this with my dremel tool and a carbide tip? I have a friend with a large milling machine, but he lives a little too far away.
    Have any of you done this to your pistols, and what were your experiences?
    Main questions:
    1.) Do I take it down close to the top of the serial numbers?
    2.) Do I leave that 45 degree ramp on the ejection port, or grind it flat?
    3.) Should I make my cut the same width all the way down until reaching the serial numbers or will I damage the slide that way?

    So many questions and only 3 days left!!!!
     
  2. DEJ/FL

    DEJ/FL Millennium Member

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    I WOULD NOT cut the frame with a Dremel!! I would take it to a competent gunsmith to have the machining work done. It you allow someone to "cut" the ejection port, they may turn your slide into a paper weight. Cutting the ejection port to low will weaken the slide and turn it into scrap metal. I'm speaking from experiance......a "machinist" friend tried to help me out and ruined a 24C slide by cutting the port to big!
    Better SAFE than SORRY!;)
    Dan:cool:
     

  3. BCarver

    BCarver CLM Millennium Member

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    Rag Flyer,
    Care must be taken when lowering the ejection port. We recommend that you lower the port .100" but some competitors have chosen to go lower. As a rule of thumb, the lowered port will be just above the serial number.

    When you lower the port, it will remove most of the angle on the inside of the slide. The angle is the culprit of your jams. Your Glock was designed to eject the brass, once the brass hits the ejector UP and to the Right which the angle helps facilitate. The jams are being caused by the brass going up, hitting the rear of the CMore and then falling back into the port. This is a normal problem when you install anything over any model are make semiauto handgun's ejection port. When we build IPSC or Steel Challenge 1911's, one the first steps is "lower the ejection port".

    Due to the amount of time, if you do not have time to get the ejection port lowered and tested before this weekend, call me today and I will send you a "loaner" Hunter Model to use this weekend. You will not need to lower the ejection port with the Hunter. If you want to do this, I could ship it NextDay today and you will have it tomorrow, allowing you a couple of days to get it sighted in, etc.

    Please remember, once you get your ejection port lowered, you may need to adjust your recoil spring's strength to match the loads you are using.

    If you have any questions, please let me know.

    Thanks,
    Bobby
    806-632-3703
     
  4. Rag Flyer

    Rag Flyer

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    Again....Some of the VERY BEST customer service I have ever encountered! Thanks for the offer for the loaner. I think I should be able to get it done sometime tonight. If you don't mind though, go ahead and bring it with you Sunday just in case I need to swap it out for the match.
    Thanks Bobby,
    Mike
     
  5. Don At PC

    Don At PC Senior Member Millennium Member

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    Rag Flyer;

    Now you know why the Carver Mount is the absolute best mount on the market. You receive the best mount available, designed and tested by fellow shooters and the greatest customer service anywhere. ^c ^c ^c
     
  6. Pharaoh

    Pharaoh

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    Hands down the best service!

    Pete
     
  7. DP177

    DP177

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    Rag Flyer,

    I lowered my G34 port and it really wasn't too hard, but it did take several attempts to get it to the point that I'm happy with it.

    I used a dremel bit in a drill press. The drill press kept the bit straight and level. Better than I could have done by hand atleast. I put the slide on it's left side and used the side of the grinding bit. I clamped a piece of wood onto the table and used it as a guide to make sure I was straight and wouldn't cut to deep. Then I just moved the slide back and forth on the table until it touched the piece of wood. I moved the wood back a little at a time until I had ground down far enough.

    I know this is probably a little late as you are shooting this weekend but I was unable to check GT for a while. Send me a private message if you would like some additional help. I could also send some pictures by email of how I did it and how it looks now.

    You are absolutely right, Carver has great service and the mount is wonderful. You'll be happy with it when you get everything dialed in.

    D. Parker
     
  8. PeaceKeeper

    PeaceKeeper

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    I had the same problem, Bobby Carver took care of my problem with the Hunter model. Did not have to mod the slide and cause any warranty issues.