i have been wondering about this for a while now and wasnt really sure how to phrase the question ok 100 % STOCK GLOCKS (for gssf amateur, or stockmeister, or?) i take my 24 frame and 24 slide i press on barrel (above the chamber - the hood?) i do not see very much movement i take my 17 frame and 17 slide (and for that matter my 34 frame and slide as well) i press on barrel the barrel starts to drop down and the slide moves slightly backwards when you fit a fitted barrel - this is what you are trying to minimize - right? i took my 17 frame (std connector) and my 24 frame (-connector) out to the range today with the 17 slide and shot the same slide on both frames in my unscientific (sp?) test.... the 24 frame (and lighter connector) showed a visibly smaller group than the 17 frame well duh?!?! it had the lighter connector.... if i had more time today i was going to change the connector out, but i didnt, so i didnt.... has anyone looked at two identical glocks where one clearly is more accurate than the other and observed a variation in any of the component sizes/dimensions ? 1. the distance between the trigger pin hole and the top of the locking block cam surface might be greater 2. the hole in the frame for the trigger pin might be higher relative to the slide rails (and the rest of the frame)? 3. the slide rails on the frame might be slightly lower relative to the hole for the trigger pin (and locking block - and the rest of the frame)? im going to try to get my old g19 back (from who i sold it to) and shoot it side by side with my g17.... i swear that 19 was a tackdriver, and this 17 shoots patterns, not groups anyone have a huge stash of used g17 locking blocks that i can sort thru to find the oversized ones (holes drilled lower relative to the top of the block)? does anybody make or has anyone made a "fitted locking block"?