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LEE factory Crimp Die
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I have the Lee 4 die set for .380, 9mm and 45acp and never have had the first problem resizing or depriming cases. Have reloaded several hundred of each caliber.
Since when does a factory crimp die decap?
I have a factory crimp die for 45 and 9mm. It works great for both, but it's the last die my hand loads see on the progressive press before they fall into the tray. I don't even see how you could possibly decap with it?
If you're talking about your sizing/decapping die (I suspect you are), make sure the decap pin is at the right deptch, and tighten it down good. The only time I've had a decap pin come up is when a case ended up sideways on the upstroke.
FWIW, I decap (and prime) in a separate step using a single-stage press. I use a LEE universal decapping die and a LEE bench primer. I've just found that if something is going to stop the progressive press, it's going to be decapping or priming - rather just do it separately. This yields more consistent results, less press stoppages, which result in less chance of error.
Tighten the nut holding the pin. Wow.
You must be young and have a lot of time on your hands.
Lol, not really.
I just find press stoppage to be something I avoid at all costs.
My press is a hornady progressive. Loading the primer feeding tube is a PIA and takes time. I’ve also found if a stoppage is going to occur, it’ll be while priming 99.9% of the time. Although I’ve yet to make a mistake while hand loading, my gut tells me it would occur after a press stoppage.
Using a single stage to decap means I get hands and eyes on my brass to examine it; this helps weed out the occasional 9x18 or 380 (or SPP 45). I wash/tumble after decaping, which cleans the primer pocket as well.
The bench mounted LEE auto prime is quick and consistent. And, I get yet another chance to handle and visually inspect the brass.
All in all, I don’t think my process adds a lot of time (factoring in the time a stoppage would cause), and I believe it leads to better, more consistent, and safer ammo.
I didn't see link in OP's post.
However, two things:
1. i emailed Lee and they said that some movement of decapping die pin (not FCD) was ok. Except if I really crank on a mis-positioned case or really mis-aligned flash hole, once it moves up it seems to self-limit and not move for a long time.
2. Link to Bellmtcs web site (TC encore guru) shows how to drill and pin the die to keep the pin from moving. I think it's pretty extreme, but should work (might get more broken pins, though):
My mistake. It was just supposed to be a post in the 'reloading' forum but I must have hit 'article' (which it wasn't supposed to be...) and I shoulda said LEE full-length resizing die. Sorry for the confusion. (Yesterday was an especially long day here!)
My mistake. I was talking about a LEE full-length sizing die. Sorry for the confusion and this was meant to be just a post in the 'reloading' forum not an article. It was a really bad day for me yesterday.
My mistake. I was talking about the LEE full-length resizing die.
Oh I plan to but I need to go a friend's house to use his vise. That nut is TIGHT! I also meant a LE
I meant, and shoulda said LEE full-length resizing die. It was a long day and it was only supposed to be a post in the 'reloading forum'.
Well if you don't think 25-50% more time is a lot, go for it. JMO, the point of the progressive is to load the same amount of ammo with less work. Sizing & priming off press is adding two add'l steps.
The Lee decapping pin is held by friction, that collet/nut must be very tight.
As to "processing" I have read a lot of people to do what sounds like a lot of extra handling for bulk pistol ammo or rifle blasting stuff.
It's best not to over tighten the nut that holds the pin. It's meant to pop up and keep the pin from breaking if you hit an obstruction, like a small stone from range pickup brass or a Berdan primed case.
A quick instructional video from Lee.
I just don't know what these primer stoppages are that you speak of. Is that Hornady particularly prone to priming issues. I seat hockey pucks in my primer pockets with my Dillon... keeps on tickin'.
Guys, I can’t argue that my methods don’t take more time, they do.
I’ve found it keeps things running smoother and I don’t have press issues. Of the few issues I’ve had, it’s been while seating a primer. By having my cases primed before hitting the progressive, I can concentrate on sizing, charging, seating and crimping. Using my method I have no stoppages.
It works for me and I feel it contributes to more consistent, safer reloading. I’m the guy behind the trigger when that round goes off so have to be confident in the process.
Like you, my Dillon primes just fine. Again, what is the point of a progressive if it does not do the whole deal. My only progressives are Dillons so maybe I am just spoiled.
Only responding to this. I agree, your ammo, your routine, it's just it does add a lot more time to the process. Just me, I would not own a progressive I could not run as a progressive. Priming is the single biggest issue on any progressive. I have always thought the rotary priming on the 6590 bullet proof & then they go & change it in the 750.
You're making a very good point, worth elaboration.
Dirty primer pockets (eventually) interfere with primer seating. "Feel" techniques mitigate this to some extent, albeit are a PIA.
Depriming for the sake of primer pocket cleaning is key, but we all have to figure out how often this needs be done. Depends. Eg., experience taught me to do so with .45ACP about every 5 cycles. Less frequent - like 10 - and am apt to get high primers. More frequent - like every time - is a waste of time/effort.
FWIW, don't use a separate decap die, just kick the deprimed/sized empty out of station 2 on my 1050. After cleaning can either a) resume at station 2 or b) relube and dump them in the hopper for a second sizing.
Assuming pockets are clean (or new brass) if I were still having trouble priming would start to consider a press problem (BTDT) or switching primer (or brass) brands.