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Lee Factory Crimp Die

  1. I recently purchased a lee factory crimp die to use in place of my rcbs seating die to crimp.

    Was just wondering if its necessary to re-work all my loads since I've switched to this? Might be a dumb question but would just like some information.
  2. I switched from the Dillon crimp die to Lee and am happy with the results. I used to find a lot of unburnt powder in some of my guns (especially the 45ACP 25-2 revolver until I switched). I didn't change any of my loads. If I were pushing the limits with a particular load, I would think about reworking it because you are definitely allowing more pressure to build.
  3. I would recommend you get the bulge buster kit from LEE which is used with the FCD with the bullet seater plug removed from the top of the die. The bulge buster kit has a push pin the fit in place of the shell holder to push you brass up and thru the FCD body to do a full sizing to iron out any expansion that the standard sizer can't reach due to the space occupied by the shell holder.

    I had a LEE 10mm/40 cal bullet sizing kit that had the push pin that fits in place of the shell holder that I use for this purpose, with my FCD.

    This works great for the 40S&W which can be worst than the 10mm stuff for bulges.
  4. Thanks for the info. I mainly bought the FCD so that I would not have to keep resetting my seater die. I crimp separately, so I figured it would be a nice way of keeping things set. I will look into the bulge buster kit, suppose it couldn't hurt even though my rounds seem to chamber in the KKM barrel fine.

    I was mainly concerned with the need to rework my loads. So far my "max" loads have only been what are specified on either of my manuals, just wanted to verify if this was needed.
  5. I always seat and crimp in separate steps. So for my 44,45,10mm,and some 308 loads, I have the seater die, then a separate crimp die. I found this was easier and most times faster than trying to adjust seating depth and crimp at the same time.