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Kimber not going full battery

Discussion in '1911 Forums' started by 9mmmountaineer, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. 9mmmountaineer

    9mmmountaineer

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    Title says it all...Went to range with my buddy and his 3" ultra covert II continually doesn't return to full battery, prob 1 in every 6-8 rounds. All he has to do is take his thumb and push slide forward, but he shouldn't have to.

    Any suggestions


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  2. fnfalman

    fnfalman Chicks Dig It

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    My first thought would be new recoil spring. Unless the gun is new, then it's something else like maybe the chamber is a bit too tight or not polished enough. Or the gun is too dirty.
     

  3. Rinspeed

    Rinspeed JAFO

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    Mini 1911s have always been a joke. :dunno:
     
  4. DWARREN123

    DWARREN123 Grumpy Old Guy

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    Call/e-mail Kimber. They made and now should make it right.
     
  5. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner

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    Check the extractor deflection. If there's too much of the tensioning wall showing in the breechface, it'll cause that. I like to see about .010-.012 inch, but .015 seems to work okay.

    I've corrected the problem by cutting the wall a little deeper and then sometimes removing a like amount from the tip to keep it from diffing into the bottom the extractor groove. I like .015-.036 inch from wall to tip.

    I use a safe-sided rail file and care to keep the wall square by laying the file on the bench and drawing the extractor along its cutting edge...carefully. Then, I cut a light bevel on the bottom corner to ease the rim's entry into the extractor.
     
  6. 9mmmountaineer

    9mmmountaineer

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  7. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner

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    Okay.

    Check it anyway. It takes 30 seconds and doesn't cost anything.
     
  8. okie

    okie GT Mayor

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    I hope he can get the pistol working properly my friend:nailbiting:
     
  9. dakrat

    dakrat

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    the fastest fix here is to clean the chamber try a different factory ammo. make sure he is not thumbing the slide and slowing its momentum.
     
  10. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner

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    Check the extractor just for giggles.

    Pictured below is an example of excessive deflection. It should be about half this amount for smooth feed/RTB function.

    Click to embiggen.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 5, 2013
  11. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner

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    Let's try that picture again.
     

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  12. 9mmmountaineer

    9mmmountaineer

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    Sorry for delay in replying. He's still having trouble and I'll reference the extractor pic and check his. Appreciate the help!


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  13. Ruggles

    Ruggles

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    He just needs to keep trying different things, those 3" 1911s can be touchy.
     
  14. owl6roll

    owl6roll

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    Yuup!
     
  15. cciman

    cciman

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    He should not have to FWI himself....send it to Kimber and describe the problem, have them troubleshoot and fix it.

    Update us here on how they behave.
     
  16. zhix

    zhix

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    If it was bought new send it back, whether he could fix it himself or not. I sent back my Compact Stainless for relibility problems and it came back within a few weeks with no BS from customer service. They didn't try to make me pay for shipping like some companies and the gun has worked properly since.
     
  17. fnfalman

    fnfalman Chicks Dig It

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    Have him take some photos of the jams and talk to Kimber customer service.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  18. faawrenchbndr

    faawrenchbndr CLM

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    1911Tuneris offering some solid advice!

    Look on youtube, tons of videos on tuning the extractor.
    He needs to learn general maintenance of a 1911, or,
    he needs to sell it a buy a Glock!
     
  19. fasteddie565

    fasteddie565 Combat Diver

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    If it is a new gun, I would give it the toothpaste treatment whereby you lap the slide to the frame with some OLD white colgate that still has grit in it. You could also use flitz? I have done this to every Kimber I own to include my Gold Combat. The Covert II is a kimpro on kimpro finish, this may indeed do it.

    After multiple FTF and FTE, I disassembled the gun, coated the rails and inside of the slide with some cheap white Colgate toothpaste. I then reassemble and run the action back and forth 200 times.

    Disassemble, clean repeat.

    Disassemble, clean, lubricate, reassemble.

    Looking inside, especially if it has a coating or other finish, you will see some very light striations where the coating has been removed. if the coating is on both parts, you should see striations on both parts. My Stainless Pro TLE II had a few shiny / polished spots.

    This is a patented process so don't tell anyone else about it.

    If it is an older gun, buy a new main spring. Kimber recommends a new spring every 1,000 rds. I buy the Wolf variable power springs and they work well. In fact, I just bought a used Grand Raptor that had the same issues as your friend's pistol. New spring, voila. 500 flawless rds so far, most of those reloads.