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Kimber and Wilson extractor differences

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I have two kimbers, one pro (4” bull) and one government (5”). The pro is much older. Its a I versus the newer 5 inch is a stainless II. Both in 45.

the extractor in the pro finally gave out so I replaced it. I purchased a wilson series 70, installed, went to the range for a tune. Before the old extractor tip broke off in the pro, it had been 100% reliable with all kinds of 230 and 185. After a couple of range and tune sessions, I am having failure to feeds. So, I started some comparisons between the two guns and the two extractors. Short end of a long story, I have purchased a kimber extractor (finally back in stock). I’ll try to remember to check back in after the kimber extractor.

Here are some side by sides. In the guns you can see the newer full size has some extra machining. In the close up of the extractors you can see the kimber machining has a thinner claw, and more machining. I’ve found that the wilson does not like certain cases like PMC. The kimbers claw fits much better on brass.

in the side by side of slides the full size with kimber extractor on right, wilson extractor in pro carry on left. In the extractor close up, kimber on right, wilson on left.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
WOW... It almost looks like they were made by two different companies.
Haha. Point made. We are all students, and I was simply sharing.

I shared this post and pictures as a lesson-learned that not all parts, even from well-known names like wilson, are drop-in/compatible across the 1911 platform. I'm newer to detailing and tuning the 1911. I've owned and shot my pro carry for over 13 years, and my Full-size I've owned since 2012 and shot Single Stack with it. But only in the last couple of years have I sat down to learn what was common knowledge some 50 or 60 years ago to my Dad's generation regarding the 1911. The devil is in the details with firearms and I was attempting to share, in Hi-fi, one of those details.
 

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Honestly, I don't think one is "better" than the other,,,, just different.

BTW, the extractor is one of the few 1911 parts that truly must be fitted.... and fitted correctly.

Remember, the design is nearly 110 years old, and manufactured by countless manufacturers, in numerous countries.
 

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I had to replace the extractor in my Colt Government that lost tension and wouldn't hold when re-tensioned. I tried a Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractor to replace it. I could never get the Wilson one to work 100%. I either would get failures to feed and empties hanging in the extractor (which is a sign that the tension is too much) or it would fail to pull the empty case or throw it around everywhere like back into my face (which is a sign of it being too loose). I got the Cylinder & Slide one instead, got it tensioned properly and every so slightly polished the inside of the hook with some 1000grit sandpaper. Now it runs correctly and extracts the empty brass in the right direction consistently. I would recommend buying the Weigand extractor tool/gauges, a digital resistance meter and tension it properly on a bench vice. Mine never needed "fitting" to the firing pin stop, but I did have to polish the inside of the hook a tiny bit. I don't really care for Wilson Combat parts. I have always had good experiences with either Colt brand parts or Cylinder & Slide parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I didn’t want to burn a ton of ammo, but with a little over 100 rounds through different scenarios of slow and fast fire as well as full mags+1. Through three different ammo brands (PMC, FIOCCHI, and WINCHESTER WHITE, all 230) I could not make the kimber choke. Ejection patterns were consistent and Similar to my trustworthy 5inch. The fiocchi had the best pattern.

It appears that Kimber is doing something magical with their extractors. I dropped it in upon install last night, but it was very very loose on a dummy round. I added a touch of tension, and voila. All new springs and a new extractor, the Pro Carry I should keep on ticking for another long long time.

Sidenote, wolff brand springs run better in mine than factory kimber.

The only downside to Kimber Pro ownership is the alum-alloy frame gets beat up. The steel framed after USPSA, doesn’t show a mark of wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had to replace the extractor in my Colt Government that lost tension and wouldn't hold when re-tensioned. I tried a Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractor to replace it. I could never get the Wilson one to work 100%. I either would get failures to feed and empties hanging in the extractor (which is a sign that the tension is too much) or it would fail to pull the empty case or throw it around everywhere like back into my face (which is a sign of it being too loose). I got the Cylinder & Slide one instead, got it tensioned properly and every so slightly polished the inside of the hook with some 1000grit sandpaper. Now it runs correctly and extracts the empty brass in the right direction consistently. I would recommend buying the Weigand extractor tool/gauges, a digital resistance meter and tension it properly on a bench vice. Mine never needed "fitting" to the firing pin stop, but I did have to polish the inside of the hook a tiny bit. I don't really care for Wilson Combat parts. I have always had good experiences with either Colt brand parts or Cylinder & Slide parts.
Same fails to feed for me. I think if I had to keep the Wilson, i’d grab the diamond files and go to work, and reduce the tension back to the slightest bit. But thankfully, the kimber branded extractor worked perfectly.
 
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