insulation

Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by W420Hunter, Apr 17, 2012.

  1. W420Hunter

    W420Hunter

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    Ok so I am doing a little home remolding. I plain on changing the attic into two bed rooms and the loft above the garage into a apartment. I have been looking over insulation and was wondering whats the best? Is there a huge difference between the rolls and the stuff they blow in? Just the basic stuff like that.
     
  2. Cobra6

    Cobra6

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    Well - the blown in is best - but you will find it is also much more expensive.
    Some people are now using an inch or so of spray on foam on walls, then adding batts over that for a higher R value than just the batts.

    I don't know where you are located, but you might also want to consider a radiant barrier to keep the heat down in the loft.

    here are a couple of sites you might look at -
    http://www.atticfoil.com/
    http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.com/productsAccuvent.html
     

  3. JMS

    JMS 02

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    I recently had the attic done with blow in, R-30 over the existing R-30 batt, $450 total.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012
  4. gigab1te

    gigab1te

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    I don't have any experience blowing in insulation onto vertical surfaces. I've always used traditional fiberglass for that. I'm not sure from your original post if you plan on applying it onto the top of a horizontal surface or onto the inside of vertical walls/roof.

    You can blow in cellulose insulation (if you are applying it on top of a horizontal surface) yourself if you are comfortable doing basic home repair work. In my area, Home Depot lets you use the machine (for blowing in the insulation) for free if you buy the insulation from them. There are lots of good tips online for prepping the area and blowing it in a uniform thickness, or you can PM me. The insulation is pretty cheap compared to your labor, so I'd reccomend going extra thick to up the R-value. It is riduculously easy to do.
     
  5. glockaviator

    glockaviator

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    Along with insulation you need to understand how the moisture can migrate. Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. So as the air migrates from warm to cold, it gives off moisture. This moisture can cause problems. Thus you put a moisture barrier on the inside of the heated surface. And if you can, you put an airgap on the surface closest to the cold side. Things like that.

    The other thing that people don't seem to understand is that insulation just SLOWS DOWN heat transfer. It doesnt stop it. Thus, when insulating a water pipe, you insulate the cold side, leaving the warm side uninsulated. When insulating the gas regulator in a gas fireplace, you insulate the hot side, leaving the cooler side (still hot, but less so) uninsulated so the unit has somewhere to give off it's heat. If you just wrap it in insulation, it won't help much. You need to think it through.
     
  6. Adjuster

    Adjuster

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    You should also contact your power electric/gas company. Every power company offers incentives to make your home more efficient. This can include free, steep discounts, financing etc.


    /
     
  7. Z71bill

    Z71bill

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    I assume you want to insulate between the ceiling and the attic -

    I don't see how you could use blow in insulation in this application -

    IMHO - you need to have a ventilated air space -

    so

    Roofing material/wood ceiling - VENTILATED AIR SPACE - insulation - interior ceiling - room

    Otherwise you will get moisture/condensation built up between the roof and insulation.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2012
  8. larry_minn

    larry_minn Silver Member Millennium Member

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    I need to make a tag line. (more info) :0

    Where you live, how hot summer/cold winter can make insulation worth more/less. (as general rule paying for higher R value is worth it) anywhere.

    I love spray on insulation. There are costs above other methods. IF you have full access (i.e. to wall studs with exterior wall, all plumbing, electrical, coax... installed. IMO its wonderful. It not only insulates but it actually strengthens walls. (pressure on both sides of studs) it seals out moisture, there is some stuff in it that rodents do not like. (but does not hurt anything just nasty taste iirc)
    It takes them longer to set up, prep then do work. (there is mess from cut off extra that you CAN use in other areas if you want as loose once cut up)

    As said you do need air ducts, in many locations. I.e. roof. If I sprayed my roof there would be air channels (cardboard that makes a void @ 2" deep and 12" wide from eave to peak.
    Check into energy credits (if they are going to give our money away folks who are doing some good might as well take some.) I got $40 last yr (IIRC) on a small project.

    Few yrs back I did @ $500 in insulation. That winter I did not use electric heater in upstairs bedroom 3x all yr. (normal every night) 1500 watt heater for 6 hrs a night. (low setting so I would guess 600 watt?) it adds up. Plus its cooler in summer.

    There is a heck of a lot in insulation that does NOT make sense to me. Talk to some experts, get quotes, then decide. IMO spray foam has many advantages IF you have full access, and its not too $$$. BTW there are 3 main (IIRC) types of spray foam. One is expanding (great stuff) one is minimal, one open cell, closed cell. (I forget which went with which.
     
  9. mhill

    mhill

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    Spray foam if it's anything other than horizontal.