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I'm donw with my LEE dies; trying RCBS next

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by crsuribe, Aug 28, 2011.

  1. crsuribe

    crsuribe 10mm Auto

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    The LEE dies are fine and well made but the problem I'm having is that the bullet seater is actually round and it pushes the cavities on the hollowpoints shut. Especially the XTP's... pretty much turns them into FMJ's...

    So I went back to Cabela's to inspect other dies and found that the RCBS ones have a flat bullet seater and I think that will help with this problem.

    Maybe I'm doing something wrong because I haven't heard of anybody else having the same problem with the LEE dies.
     
  2. sig357fan

    sig357fan

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    never heard of anything like that before, pic please.

    sig357fan
     

  3. DoctaGlockta

    DoctaGlockta

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    My money is that you are crimping the mouth of the case before you are actually seating the bullet. Just a quick guess.

    I have done a lot of stupid things while learning to reload but I never have crushed a HP into a RN.
     
  4. nastytrigger

    nastytrigger Mediocre Member

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    I'm new to reloading, but that's a weird problem. Hard to think a seater die would crush a hollow point. There isn't that much pressure applied, or is there? Pics please. Maybe a belling problem? Actually, RCBS comes with two seater plugs, so I think that is an easy solution.

    I've had good luck with my RCBS dies in 9mm and .45ACP. Had a COAL issue at first, but once I found the best length for my barrel, I'm having no issues.


    Posted Via Outdoor Hub Mobile App for iPhone
     
  5. Uncle Don

    Uncle Don Wood butcher

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    I agree - pushing a bullet into an alredy crimed case isn't the fault of the die. Furthermore, you could fill the cavity with expoxy if necessary and you would have a flat surface to push the bullet in - all for the cost of a bullet seating stem. No offense intended, but it doesn't seem like the die is at fault here - perhaps the RCBS dies will overcome this error :)

    In all my years of loading, I haven't ever experienced anything close to that.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2011
  6. fredj338

    fredj338

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    Not uncommon, they only provide one seating stem ,but you can just buy another one from them in a FP/TC design. I need to for my 45AR dies as it does the same thing w/ my 250grLSWCHP.:crying: It's not odd at all if the HP is soft, like lead or has a large lead expeoed JHP. Done it many, many times. One reason for the epoxy fit, you can make it fit that HP precisely & avoid any possability of closing the HP.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2011
  7. bush pilot

    bush pilot

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    Adjust your seating depth on the case/bullet and then back off the seating stem to adjust the crimp. This doesn't sound like a bad die.

    How are you doing UD?
     
  8. WiskyT

    WiskyT Malcontent

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    I've smooshed swaged HP bullets a little, or semijacketed HP a little, but I've never smooshed a fully jacketed HP. I seat XTP's no problem on my Lee die in 9mm.
     
  9. GioaJack

    GioaJack Conifer Jack

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    Seating dies are seating dies, nothing magical about them and unless one happens to be defective you'll gain nothing by changing.

    Seating stems are designed to seat a limited variety of bullet profiles but with a simple modification and a few minutes time you can make one seating stem work for any profile you will ever load. Buy some two-part epoxy or JB Weld and you'll be set for life.

    I tend to buy very, very small tubes, but then again I don't buy green bananas.


    Jack
     
  10. Uncle Don

    Uncle Don Wood butcher

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    Just taking it a day at time and scratchin' where it itches. Good to see your posts.
     
  11. El_Ron1

    El_Ron1 AAAAAAAAGHHH!!!

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    RCBS used to come with several stem plugs, do they still?

    OP, call Lee an' get hooked up.
     
  12. crsuribe

    crsuribe 10mm Auto

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    Please don't be offended but I laughed when I read some suggested I was crimping the cases before seating the bullet. That would not be possible at all. I don't know about your cases but mine won't take a bullet unless they're slightly flared and I have my sating die set to not crimp at all. For that, I use a separate die at the very end of the process.

    Here's some pics:
    [​IMG]

    Before (left), after (right).
    [​IMG]

    These cases were brand new and had no carbon coating inside from previously burnt powder so they were a little stiffer and that contributed to the problem but I see how this concave seating stem would cause that on these particular bullets by just looking at it.

    I actually did a google search (which I should've done to begin with) and found that this is NOT an uncommon problem with the stock LEE stem. LEE offers custom stems if you send them a bullet sample and $8 plus $5 for shipping, and other people just modify the stock stem with tools or epoxy/jb weld.

    Though honestly this is too much trouble imo and RCBS offers a design that I know almost for sure will work better. So I'm still gonna return these dies and get the RCBS ones for just about $20 more if I include the crimping die, or $5 more without that die. I do find that the RCBS dies are better finished too.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2011
  13. WiskyT

    WiskyT Malcontent

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    This seems a bit trollish.
     
  14. Uncle Don

    Uncle Don Wood butcher

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    Actually, it is possible to crimp the case prior to final bullet seating. This is done when someone turns the die body in further than they should and then uses the adjustment knob for "final adjustment".

    It is my opinion that the reason some people have this issue is not necessarily through their own fault but how many die manufactures advise as to how to set themin the instructions. The idea that you can set it "x" distance from the shell holder before starting your adjustment is a mistake.

    Here is how I do it and its never let me down. First, adjust the locking ring and the knob up as high as they will go. With a slightly flared case in the shell holder, run the case into an empty die hole and hold it there. Turn the die body in until it stops which is where the crimp shoulder has met with the top of your case. Set the lock ring so it doesn't go any deeper.

    Next, turn the adjustment knob down a couple of turns and place your bullet on the empty case and run it into the die. Keep doing this until you get the depth you want. This is easy because you are not crimping at this point. When you have the depth at the desired point, lower the case and turn the adjustment knob back out a couple of turns and screw the die body in another half turn. Run the case into the die which will crimp it - then just turn the knob down until it stops. Now you have a die that is crimping the case at the same time the bullet reaches it's desired depth. I highly suspect your marks will go away. Works for me - but this advise along with .75 cents will get you a cheap cup of coffee.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2011
  15. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

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    So your positive your die is not crimping a little? Take a empty but flared case and insert it in the die. See if it removes the flare. Might as well check the obvious.

    As far as the seating stem. Call Lee. A flat stem is NOT custom. It should be cheap. It might push a soft nose down. So I would check the other stuff as well.
     
  16. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

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    I do the same. I do back it out 1/2 a turn after I find the shoulder of the crimp part of the die. Don't really know why I do that.
     
  17. crsuribe

    crsuribe 10mm Auto

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    Are you drunk again? Or just paranoid as usual? Sorry this thread isn't about the weather bud.

    Yeah that's how I set my dies. Which is why on my previous post I mentioned that I have the seating die set so it doesn't crimp at all and I crimp with a separate die, the Lee factory crimp die, at the very end of the process. So that is not the issue.

    But hey, I think it was you or someone else here who told me how to setup my seating die so it wouldn't crimp and it works great! So thanks for the advice.

    In fact I only have this problem with the XTP's since they already have a narrow-ish cavity, in 10mm at least. The 150gr noslers I usually load do get a little bit crushed but not enough to affect expansion. Every one I recovered expanded lime a champ.
     
  18. crsuribe

    crsuribe 10mm Auto

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    Just checked for the sake of science and the crimper doesn't make contact with the case at all... but I agree it was worth checking!

    I will actually call LEE tomorrow and see if they'll send me a flat seater plug...
     
  19. Colorado4Wheel

    Colorado4Wheel

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    Let us know what they say. I would think they would have flat ones just ready to go. I would be more inclined to get a custom one. The flat one will likely push the point down some. $7 is cheap for a new custom stem (your going to spend $5 on shipping either way).
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2011
  20. WiskyT

    WiskyT Malcontent

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    I just think it's funny that you come on here, bash a product that no one else seems to have a problem with, then respond to advice by telling everyone you know what you're doing and the only solution is to return the Lee product and buy an RCBS product. If you weren't a troll, you would have just changed out the Lee for the RCBS and THEN started a thread about how the RCBS works better for you.

    BTW, I don't drink, and there are pages of search results already coming out about what a sham the whole Irene hype is.

    I wish I was smart like you though. Too much trouble to put epoxy in a seating stem, too much trouble to have lee send you a stem shaped any way you want, too much trouble to grind the stem you have flat so buy another set of dies that comes with a nearly identicel seating stem, to have the same problem.
    If I posted this on a 4WD forum, people would call me a troll:

    My jeep got stuck in a paved parking lot, the 4WD on jeeps sucks, I'm getting a 4Runner!!!:faint: