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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A fellow competitor at a match showed me his stock G26 and the trigger felt completely different from my G21SF I picked up 'used' a couple months ago. While his feels very light with no discernible stacking, mine has a definite point where resistance is high, then an abrupt letoff. He was actually shocked how much harder my trigger was compared to his.

Let's start with this. Is my connector stock, or something else the PO put in?



Actually, sorry...I thought that was the connector with the '-1' on it, but now know it's this one, which appears to be stock.

 

· Bustin Caps
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It looks stock (to me), but you could only tell by disassembling it and looking at it.

Dude... have you ever detail stripped that thing ? There's all KINDS of "crud" in that bottom picture, on the frame just in front of the connector. If you haven't done it, you should either learn how, or have someone else do it. It really couldn't be simpler.... a punch (well, Glock Armorer's tool is better and is cheap) and you can have it apart in two minutes.

[Edit: Dingus beat me to the punch about the detail clean]
 

· Private side
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If it isn't touching anything moving, is that "crud" really causing a problem? Although if that easily cleaned part is dirty, I bet the striker channel and other tunnels in the slide are pretty dirty too.

Looks like a stock connector to me.
 

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While his feels very light with no discernible stacking, mine has a definite point where resistance is high, then an abrupt letoff.
Are you putting a drop of oil between the connector and the trigger bar? That is arguably the most important lube point on the gun. A dirty FP safety channel can cause resistance as well.

I see no + or - on the connector, so I'd say it is stock. That doesn't mean it can't have a burr or something. Betcha a detailed strip and clean does wonders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, it's dirty. We just got back from a match with about 300 reloads through it, plus maybe another 700 or so since I bought it. I'll do the detail strip and see if that helps.

Any explanation about why his G26's trigger feels totally different? He swears up and down no work was done to it. The pull is constant all the way through, no hitch at all.
 

· NRA Life Member
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Interesting. All of my G-26s have a definite stacking point. The only time they didn't is when I was experimenting with Glock's "-" connectors. Then the stacking point, while there, took some practice to find and use consistently. And occasionally, it seemed like the stacking point wasn't there at all. I could and did blow right through the trigger pull with no change in resistance at all.

I found that to be spooky. That occasional uncertainty eventually led me to go back to all stock connectors. It was a fun experiment, but after several months of heavy use, I found I still missed a stacking point with a crisper release. So I have returned to stock connector and am loving it more than ever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Alright, I just got done doing a detail strip, clean and 25c polish job. Easier than I expected and interesting. The trigger feels a little better but nothing that makes me shout expletives. I used a Dremel, buffing wheel and Mothers Mag polish, got everything very shiny and smooth.

KDA, I really suspect his G26 had a '-' connector in it...there's just no way it was a stock one. It's exactly as you described.
 

· RetiredDinosaur
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All of my G-26s have a definite stacking point.
Guessing that when you say 'stacking point', you're talking about what is commonly called the 'reset point'.

I'd suggest that you and the OP go to my blog and read 'Use the Reset Luke....'


That occasional uncertainty eventually led me to go back to all stock connectors. It was a fun experiment, but after several months of heavy use, I found I still missed a stacking point with a crisper release. So I have returned to stock connector and am loving it more than ever.
In my opinion, an excellent decision!
 

· RetiredDinosaur
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Alright, I just got done doing a detail strip, clean and 25c polish job. Easier than I expected and interesting. The trigger feels a little better but nothing that makes me shout expletives. I used a Dremel, buffing wheel and Mothers Mag polish, got everything very shiny and smooth.
That's not the .25 cent trigger job, that's called polishing with a Dremel tool....the .25 cent job is done with a Q-tip.

If and when the gun starts to fire more than one shot per trigger pull, the first part to replace is the 'trigger with trigger bar'. If that doesn't fix it, the firing pin is next.


KDA, I really suspect his G26 had a '-' connector in it...there's just no way it was a stock one. It's exactly as you described.
I think you're right.
 

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Guessing that when you say 'stacking point', you're talking about what is commonly called the 'reset point'.
I think he's talking about the point where the trigger bar hits the guide angle on the connector and begins to slide down -- at that point the pull weight rises just before the break. Most of us want that, but the NY trigger spring devotees seem to like that the NY trigger springs make the pull heavy enough throughout that the additional build-up of pull weight prior to break is inconsequential. Some people like surprises, I guess.
 
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