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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my Glock 22 conversion barrel 9mm 1/2X28 threads. This does alright for the flash, but after a magazine, it starts to loosen. What is the remedy for keeping everything tight?
 

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Try some blue locktite
 

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No clue. My HK 45CT came with o-rings.
I added O-rings to my Beretta 92F, CZ P10C, Glock 19s and they don't melt when shooting. I just bought a bag of Viton o-rings off ebay. I forgot what size is needed for 1/2x28.
 

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OP...do you not wonder why auto-pistols used by authentic professionals (law enforcement and some military) NEVER have such useless things as flash suppressors and compensators on them? Those are purely for the gun shop and range commando types.
 
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OP...do you not wonder why auto-pistols used by authentic professionals (law enforcement and some military) NEVER have such useless things as flash suppressors and compensators on them? Those are purely for the gun shop and range commando types.
Not every pistol is designated for serious defensive use, and there are a LOT of folks in the area between "authentic professionals" and "gun shop and range commando" gun owners/shooters. The main reason cops and the military don't modify their guns, is that the vast majority are not ALLOWED to modify their guns.

Some of the best shooters in the world use compensated firearms in the course of shooting pistol competitions, and they do it because these accessories do work. If they didn't work, then the governing bodies of various shooting sports wouldn't waste their time prohibiting the use of these devices in the lower shooting classes where they want everyone to be on a more level playing field.


To the OP: I'd suggest using Red Loctite, letting it sit and cure for at least 48 hours before use, and still checking it periodically during your shooting session to make sure it stays tight. They do make Loctite versions that will keep it on there (more or less permanently), but if you want to be able to easily remove it for disassembly for cleaning, then those are not a good choice.
 

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I was using a small strip of whatever plumber's tape I got from the store when I was doing pipes. It keeps it on and comes off when needed. Since I bought the o rings, I leave the teflon tape for pipe work.
 

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I was using a small strip of whatever plumber's tape I got from the store when I was doing pipes. It keeps it on and comes off when needed. Since I bought the o rings, I leave the teflon tape for pipe work.
The O-ring on an HK is held in place by a groove. How do you get the flash hider threads to go over the O-ring? Some oil pan drain plugs have an O-ring in the middle of the barrel https://www.biketeile-service.de/images/product_images/popup_images/7230370.jpg to help with leaks and backing out, but there is a groove cut for that, too.

I use copper anti seize on my thread protectors and my AR flash hiders and never have had one come loose...and they always come off when I want them to. Try it along with getting the flash hider tight. If it's usually after one magazine, you're not getting it tight enough, in the first place.
 

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I put a compensator on a G21 SF after I bought a new G 21 Gen 4. I had to red loc tite it on, but it is very stable and fun to play with. Anything else is just another source of maintenance.
 

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The O-ring on an HK is held in place by a groove. How do you get the flash hider threads to go over the O-ring? Some oil pan drain plugs have an O-ring in the middle of the barrel https://www.biketeile-service.de/images/product_images/popup_images/7230370.jpg to help with leaks and backing out, but there is a groove cut for that, too.

I use copper anti seize on my thread protectors and my AR flash hiders and never have had one come loose...and they always come off when I want them to. Try it along with getting the flash hider tight. If it's usually after one magazine, you're not getting it tight enough, in the first place.
I think the concept is that the bottom edge of the flash hider pushes the O ring against the base of the threaded portion of the barrel. It doesn't go over it. That's how it works on threaded barrel thread caps that I have used in the past. If you heat the barrel up enough or heat it and cool it often, the O rings degrade and break, ergo my comment about maintenance.
 
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I use cheap harbor freight O rings on a comp and threaded barrel caps.

No issues.

I haven’t even had one break yet. 2000 rounds or so on my latest threaded barrel with O ring.

When they do break, I have a package of them in the range bag.

The caps and comps thread against it the O ring, not go over it. The rubber ring gets smashed which creates pressure and friction to keep things from backing off.
 

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Not every pistol is designated for serious defensive use, and there are a LOT of folks in the area

To the OP: I'd suggest using Red Loctite, letting it sit and cure for at least 48 hours before use, and still checking it periodically during your shooting session to make sure it stays tight. They do make Loctite versions that will keep it on there (more or less permanently), but if you want to be able to easily remove it for disassembly for cleaning, then those are not a good choice.

Good lord no. Red loctite requires a torch to get it off. Blue loctite is the version if your going that route (which I wouldn't, tape or o-ring is the answer.

Red loctite (shakes head and walks away slowly)
 

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You could always look into using the appropriate crush washer as used on the AR platform, although that could get expensive depending on how often you plan to take everything apart for cleaning.

Otherwise, I would use a 0.5" I.D. silicone o-ring (google "high temperature o-ring").
 

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Good lord no. Red loctite requires a torch to get it off. Blue loctite is the version if your going that route (which I wouldn't, tape or o-ring is the answer.

Red loctite (shakes head and walks away slowly)
Aaaactually...

That was the Voice of Personal Experience talking. I have a similar setup to what the OP is describing on a G34, and I've run several different comps on it. Even though there is a setscrew in the current comp, I red-Loctited the comp onto the barrel threads, and red-Loctited the tiny setscrew (which directly touches the barrel). I ran 100 shots through the pistol at a moderate pace, and when I was done and the comp was still warm to the touch, you could begin to unscrew it by hand (thus the recommendation to check the comp for tightness periodically during the firing session).

The second time I used it, I cleaned the threads on both items, liberally doused the barrel/comp threads with red Loctite, set it in position, Loctited the setscrew, and let it all set-up for 48 hours. When I fired it, the same thing happened -- slightly loose after 100 shots fired at a moderate pace.

Apparently the barrel gets hot enough to break the screw-glue bond, AND vibrate the setscrew loose.

Either that, or my red Loctite has passed it's effectiveness date...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the information. I will try shooting with it off and hope to get better groups next time. Not a cop, but I did modify my military weapons here and in Afghanistan. Just because the average joe thinks the rifle is a burden to carry and hope it works when they need it doesn't mean serious gun enthusiast don't know how to make them work better. I removed the cam on my A2 so the trigger pull would be much better and the same every pull. Bought and zeroed my own EOtech at the time before that was allowed also. I have other Glocks and the threaded barrel with flash comp on it is really just a thread protector until I save up and get a can.
 
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