First of all, I want to give credit to two people. First, is Joe D of Brian's Forums. He originally gave out this secret, and authored a thread that teaches you how to do this. Second, is GT member Mran. He posted a thread recently about this, and gave me the idea (and the source thread at Brian's Forums) to do this. Ok, so what's this all about? I'm pretty sure this is one of the things the pros do to their expensive Glock trigger kits. It relocates the plastic trigger pad on the trigger bar. By doing this, you achieve several things. First, it dramatically lightens the trigger pull by giving you better mechanical leverage. Next, if tuned right, it can eliminate pre-travel, over-travel, and the dual-stage feel of the Glock trigger. When I say dramatically lighten, I'm talking about pulls in the 1-2lb range. Several people on Joe D's thread claim to have gotten their pulls down below 2lb, and Joe himself says he's gotten it down to 14oz. Most of this with stock connectors and striker/trigger springs. Before you attempt this, I recommend reading all of this, as well as all of Joe D's thread. You must register at Brian's Forums to see his pictures, which are necessary. Also, realize you will almost certainly ruin at least one trigger bar. I figure I will go through about 3 before getting it perfect, but at $15.00 each, that's WAY cheaper than a Vanek trigger or something. If you are not handy, do not try this. It will require considerable experimentation and trial and error. Procedure: Here's what you do: First, you must detail strip the pistol to access the trigger bar. You can put everything but the trigger bar aside. You need to remove the plastic trigger pad from the trigger bar. To do this, you need to remove the upper pin in the trigger pad. However, you can't just beat it out, or it will break the whole right side of the trigger out. So, measure carefully, and figure where the pin should be on the right side. Use a drill or Dremel tool to cut a small hole in that location. Use a punch to lightly beat on the pin from the left side, and you will usually be able to see it deforming the plastic on the right, and trying to come through. If you can see that your hole is lined up, drill on through. It's just a thin layer of plastic. Once the pin is out, you can remove the trigger pad. There are two holes that must be drilled to relocate the pad. Essentially, the goal is to get the trigger bar further up inside the trigger pad. You want it deeper inside the trigger, and you want the pad mounted higher up on the bar. To accomplish this, first use a drill to drill a hole in the pad. The hole should be about .120" away from the original hole, center to center (if you're looking at the trigger pad from the left side, it should be to the right of the original hole, and slightly higher). I am not sure what size bit I used, just measure the pin you removed for the right size. I THINK it was 5/64". Here is a picture of mine: Realize that I am just in my first stage of all of this, and I am no master at this, yet. This location may not be ideal, but it was as close as I could get to Joe D's picture. Next, you need to drill a hole straight up the leg of the trigger bar. What I mean is that you need to drill a hole in the trigger bar right above the original. Joe says it should be .120" from the original on the "older" bars, and .140" on the "newer" bars (I have no idea which is which, but since his thread was written in '08, and my guns are newer than that, I went with newer). This is the hardest part. Drilling this hole is next to impossible. I'm guessing the trigger bar is Tenifer coated, because it took about 15 minutes just to make a little dent in the metal. Then, once I got in there, the bit cut right through. Take your time, and use a good bit. I used DeWalt 5/64" titanium split tip (which seemed the best), and a Rigid 5/64" cobalt bit. It also helps to use a Dremel or punch to make a small dent in the metal first to hold the bit in place. Joe D said to use low rpm and medium pressure. I eventually got through using high rpm and heavy pressure. Be careful, I jabbed a drill bit at full speed with about 20lbs of pressure into my left index finger. I think it hit bone. It hurts like hell. I'm just glad it wasn't my trigger finger. Then, you must cut or grind off the excess that's left over. Basically, you will grind it down so that the original hole is gone. I think you might not have to cut it off if you trim the plastic trigger safety, but I just did it, it was simple with the Dremel. Joe D says something about trimming the L of the trigger safety (the little safety in the center of the trigger pad), but I didn't have to do that. I can only surmise it was because I trimmed the bar. I will look into it next time. Here is a picture of mine. Since the original hole has been cut off, I will edit the photo with a picture of approximately where it was. The red marks illustrate what the bar looked like before I cut off the end. Once you have done this, reassemble the part by putting the pin back in, and reassemble the gun. Fill in the holes with epoxy like J-B Weld. Another thing that Joe D says to do is bend the back tab (where the trigger spring attaches) forward. See his thread for instructions on this, as I didn't do it yet. This will increase spring pressure and lighten your pull. This is necessary since the modified trigger will be further back at rest, so you may need the extra tension. I don't think a stronger spring would suffice since now the spring may be too long. You MUST heat the part to a dull red or IT WILL BREAK!!! I didn't get to this part (read on). Results: Ok, so I didn't do a perfect job. I figured I'd mess something up, so I already ordered a few more triggers to play further. What I did wrong is not drill a perfect hole through the trigger pad. When I drilled it, it wasn't straight. So essentially, the hole in the right side of the pad was in the wrong place. Since the trigger bar attaches on the right side of the trigger, it's the most important side, so you may want to drill from that side. My hole ended up being too low, and that caused the trigger bar to sit too low. It wouldn't activate the striker safety plunger (looking back now, I might need to move my trigger pad hole a TINY bit forward as well). I then tried to bend the striker safety cam (the upward pointing finger on the trigger bar) to make it taller. I didn't heat it enough, and it broke. ****!!! So I failed, but not totally. The trigger feels AMAZING! I was still able to dry fire, but the striker would hit the safety plunger. I got a sense of the trigger by removing the safety plunger and dry-firing (this did not lighten the pull, in case you're wondering). The trigger has to be about 3-3.5lbs, and I didn't even mess with the spring or anything. The parts are all 100% stock. Furthermore, there is no more stacking. It is a totally linear, and shorter pull. Break is extremely crisp, and reset feels good. It does not feel like a Glock trigger anymore. There is no pre-travel slack, nor is there there the typical "wall" that you hit right before break. The entire trigger travel is smooth and consistent, all the way to break. Finished product: Also, one of the things I hate with lighter connectors and springs is the sluggish reset. Because you're still using a factory connector and springs, reset is VERY positive. It feels great. I can't wait to get more bars in. This is definitely the best Glock trigger I've ever felt. I will be doing more experimenting once I get the new bars in. Again, I am no expert on this, but I will try to answer any questions anyone may have. Try finding your answer on Joe D's thread first, because it has tons of info. I think if you are somewhat handy, you can do this with no problem. Just be ready to ruin a few triggers, and take your time. Make sure your measurements are precise, and read Joe D's thread in entirety before starting. Make sure your hole in the trigger pad is STRAIGHT!!! There are lots of good tips late in Joe D's thread. Anyway, I will get back with you all once I have more to play with. Have fun playing!!! Joe D's original thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52311&hl=trigger&st=0 Again, thanks to Mran for bringing this to my attention!