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How To DIY- Ultimate Glock Trigger

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by 21Carrier, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    First of all, I want to give credit to two people. First, is Joe D of Brian's Forums. He originally gave out this secret, and authored a thread that teaches you how to do this. Second, is GT member Mran. He posted a thread recently about this, and gave me the idea (and the source thread at Brian's Forums) to do this.

    Ok, so what's this all about? I'm pretty sure this is one of the things the pros do to their expensive Glock trigger kits. It relocates the plastic trigger pad on the trigger bar. By doing this, you achieve several things. First, it dramatically lightens the trigger pull by giving you better mechanical leverage. Next, if tuned right, it can eliminate pre-travel, over-travel, and the dual-stage feel of the Glock trigger. When I say dramatically lighten, I'm talking about pulls in the 1-2lb range. Several people on Joe D's thread claim to have gotten their pulls down below 2lb, and Joe himself says he's gotten it down to 14oz. Most of this with stock connectors and striker/trigger springs.

    Before you attempt this, I recommend reading all of this, as well as all of Joe D's thread. You must register at Brian's Forums to see his pictures, which are necessary. Also, realize you will almost certainly ruin at least one trigger bar. I figure I will go through about 3 before getting it perfect, but at $15.00 each, that's WAY cheaper than a Vanek trigger or something. If you are not handy, do not try this. It will require considerable experimentation and trial and error.

    Procedure:

    Here's what you do: First, you must detail strip the pistol to access the trigger bar. You can put everything but the trigger bar aside. You need to remove the plastic trigger pad from the trigger bar. To do this, you need to remove the upper pin in the trigger pad. However, you can't just beat it out, or it will break the whole right side of the trigger out. So, measure carefully, and figure where the pin should be on the right side. Use a drill or Dremel tool to cut a small hole in that location. Use a punch to lightly beat on the pin from the left side, and you will usually be able to see it deforming the plastic on the right, and trying to come through. If you can see that your hole is lined up, drill on through. It's just a thin layer of plastic. Once the pin is out, you can remove the trigger pad.

    There are two holes that must be drilled to relocate the pad. Essentially, the goal is to get the trigger bar further up inside the trigger pad. You want it deeper inside the trigger, and you want the pad mounted higher up on the bar. To accomplish this, first use a drill to drill a hole in the pad. The hole should be about .120" away from the original hole, center to center (if you're looking at the trigger pad from the left side, it should be to the right of the original hole, and slightly higher). I am not sure what size bit I used, just measure the pin you removed for the right size. I THINK it was 5/64". Here is a picture of mine:

    [​IMG]

    Realize that I am just in my first stage of all of this, and I am no master at this, yet. This location may not be ideal, but it was as close as I could get to Joe D's picture.

    Next, you need to drill a hole straight up the leg of the trigger bar. What I mean is that you need to drill a hole in the trigger bar right above the original. Joe says it should be .120" from the original on the "older" bars, and .140" on the "newer" bars (I have no idea which is which, but since his thread was written in '08, and my guns are newer than that, I went with newer). This is the hardest part. Drilling this hole is next to impossible. I'm guessing the trigger bar is Tenifer coated, because it took about 15 minutes just to make a little dent in the metal. Then, once I got in there, the bit cut right through. Take your time, and use a good bit. I used DeWalt 5/64" titanium split tip (which seemed the best), and a Rigid 5/64" cobalt bit. It also helps to use a Dremel or punch to make a small dent in the metal first to hold the bit in place. Joe D said to use low rpm and medium pressure. I eventually got through using high rpm and heavy pressure. Be careful, I jabbed a drill bit at full speed with about 20lbs of pressure into my left index finger. I think it hit bone. It hurts like hell. I'm just glad it wasn't my trigger finger.

    Then, you must cut or grind off the excess that's left over. Basically, you will grind it down so that the original hole is gone. I think you might not have to cut it off if you trim the plastic trigger safety, but I just did it, it was simple with the Dremel. Joe D says something about trimming the L of the trigger safety (the little safety in the center of the trigger pad), but I didn't have to do that. I can only surmise it was because I trimmed the bar. I will look into it next time.


    Here is a picture of mine. Since the original hole has been cut off, I will edit the photo with a picture of approximately where it was. The red marks illustrate what the bar looked like before I cut off the end.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once you have done this, reassemble the part by putting the pin back in, and reassemble the gun. Fill in the holes with epoxy like J-B Weld.

    Another thing that Joe D says to do is bend the back tab (where the trigger spring attaches) forward. See his thread for instructions on this, as I didn't do it yet. This will increase spring pressure and lighten your pull. This is necessary since the modified trigger will be further back at rest, so you may need the extra tension. I don't think a stronger spring would suffice since now the spring may be too long. You MUST heat the part to a dull red or IT WILL BREAK!!! I didn't get to this part (read on).

    Results:

    Ok, so I didn't do a perfect job. I figured I'd mess something up, so I already ordered a few more triggers to play further. What I did wrong is not drill a perfect hole through the trigger pad. When I drilled it, it wasn't straight. So essentially, the hole in the right side of the pad was in the wrong place. Since the trigger bar attaches on the right side of the trigger, it's the most important side, so you may want to drill from that side. My hole ended up being too low, and that caused the trigger bar to sit too low. It wouldn't activate the striker safety plunger (looking back now, I might need to move my trigger pad hole a TINY bit forward as well). I then tried to bend the striker safety cam (the upward pointing finger on the trigger bar) to make it taller. I didn't heat it enough, and it broke. ****!!!

    So I failed, but not totally. The trigger feels AMAZING! I was still able to dry fire, but the striker would hit the safety plunger. I got a sense of the trigger by removing the safety plunger and dry-firing (this did not lighten the pull, in case you're wondering). The trigger has to be about 3-3.5lbs, and I didn't even mess with the spring or anything. The parts are all 100% stock. Furthermore, there is no more stacking. It is a totally linear, and shorter pull. Break is extremely crisp, and reset feels good. It does not feel like a Glock trigger anymore. There is no pre-travel slack, nor is there there the typical "wall" that you hit right before break. The entire trigger travel is smooth and consistent, all the way to break.

    Finished product:

    [​IMG]

    Also, one of the things I hate with lighter connectors and springs is the sluggish reset. Because you're still using a factory connector and springs, reset is VERY positive. It feels great. I can't wait to get more bars in. This is definitely the best Glock trigger I've ever felt.

    I will be doing more experimenting once I get the new bars in. Again, I am no expert on this, but I will try to answer any questions anyone may have. Try finding your answer on Joe D's thread first, because it has tons of info. I think if you are somewhat handy, you can do this with no problem. Just be ready to ruin a few triggers, and take your time. Make sure your measurements are precise, and read Joe D's thread in entirety before starting. Make sure your hole in the trigger pad is STRAIGHT!!! There are lots of good tips late in Joe D's thread. Anyway, I will get back with you all once I have more to play with. Have fun playing!!!


    Joe D's original thread:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52311&hl=trigger&st=0

    Again, thanks to Mran for bringing this to my attention!
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2011
  2. Mran

    Mran

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  3. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    Thanks, Mran, for both the pictures and the idea. I expected this to be a more popular subject than it is. Maybe it will help when I get my G21SF up and running with an awesome trigger. I guess people are worried about messing up their guns. The great thing about doing this is you can absolutely destroy the job and only have to swap out the $15 trigger bar.
     
  4. arushus

    arushus Biggest Member

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    Im very interested in this trigger fix. Everything you mentioned it fixing is everything Id like to change about my stock trigger. Im gonna wait and let you mess up several times and learn from your mistakes before I attempt it ;) haha, actually, I really cant afford to mess up my trigger right now and there is tons of things Id like to do to my gun before I go messing with the trigger...
     
  5. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    I know, me too. I really don't need to be spending money on trigger bars right now. I have a G20LS to finish, and could use lots of other things, but this just seemed too cool not to try. I thought I might get lucky and not mess up the first trigger bar, but the slightest variation can produce crappy results. I believe mine would have been spot-on had I not drilled a slanted hole in the trigger pad. My pull was PERFECT for me, and would have been even better after bending the trigger spring tab, but that one little mistake messed up the whole deal.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  6. robhic

    robhic WOLVERINE!!!! Platinum Member Silver Member

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    Is a 1-2 # or even 14 oz. trigger pull a good idea? Isn't that a bit too light to be truly safe? I have the Ghost 3.5 connector, 6# trigger spring, 4# striker spring and reduced firing pin safety spring. After some polishing ($.25 trigger job) the trigger IS lighter and I like it. I haven't had a gauge on it but it feels fine.

    I, personally, would be a bit afraid of a 1# trigger pull. I played with my Ruger .22's for quite some time trying to lighten the triggers but below 1# ? No way!!! Too sensitive.

    If you want to do it, I guess it's a free country (for now! :wow:) but that pull weight is in the scary range, IMO.
     
  7. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    I'm ONLY doing this on my G21SF which is nothing but a range gun. Plus, I will keep a stock trigger to swap back in if I ever need to carry it. I am looking for something in the 2-2.5lb range. My carry G29 is about stock, and I would never consider carrying something lighter than that. I agree that a light trigger is not a good idea for carry use, but many people here have guns that don't get carried. In that case, it's great. I have four trigger bars on the way, so I'll have three tries to get it right.
     
  8. robhic

    robhic WOLVERINE!!!! Platinum Member Silver Member

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    Good luck getting it where you want. :supergrin: I still think a very, very light trigger is potential trouble. Agreed it's NEVER for carry purposes. But even a range gun -- accidents do happen. A bit of a hard knock, dropped, etc. You don't want to or think it will happen but accidents do happen. That's about all I was talking about. Staying 1 step ahead of an accident....
     
  9. Mran

    Mran

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    Please man every trigger job thread has someone saying dont go to light your asking for trouble

    Even tho almost every .22 and 1911 have hair triggers and people seem to have no problems shooting recreational or even carrying them. Having a weapon that shoots a projectile over 1000fps seems extremely dangerous but with proper handling and care. Its been proven there not unless in incompetent hands
     
  10. TedG

    TedG Infidel USA

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    When you post in an open forum, you have to expect people to offer opinions and advice. Even when it's not solicited. Your own statement quantifies that fact. Just because you think it's a great idea don't expect everybody to agree. You should be thankful when someone offers a cautionary post for your own well being. You can rationalize all you want, but what purpose can a non-precision striker fired pistol gain from a 2.5# trigger?
     
  11. M&P15T

    M&P15T Beard One

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    For a strictly range shooter/gun, that sounds like a great trigger mod for the shooter that wants their GLOCK trigger to feel like a super-tuned 1911 trigger.

    For someone that CCWs, that's not a good idea.

    I would not be concerned about liability in a defensive shooting, as no one has ever produced one single court case where a civilian shooter's trigger mods affected the out come of a case....not one.

    My true concern is that one should train and practice with what they're going to carry, and carrying a pistol with a super-light and short trigger pull is just asking for an ND.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2011
  12. M&P15T

    M&P15T Beard One

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    No one carries 22s, and 1911s are SAO with a safety, so you're not comparing apples to apples. A GLOCK with a less than two pound trigger that has been shortened to almost no travel necessary to fire?

    Fine for the range, stupid anywhere else.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2011
  13. nc910

    nc910

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    My hat's off to the OP for having the balls and the patience to take a shot at modifying a trigger bar instead of shelling out big money for an aftermarket job. Keep on doing what you're doing!

    /DIY 'til I die.
     
  14. .38 super

    .38 super Observer

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    Than what is the point of carrying gun for self defense if you have a heavy, long trigger ... I automaticali will assume, when you actually draw your gun to protect yoursef, you'll need time to think should you shoot the attacker or not, and also you'll do this very accurately with the long, heavy trigger, yes ?
    IMHO, a SA trigger is just fine to carry if it's about 2#... I personally wouldn't go with less, but the reason would be the feel, nothing else ...
     
  15. .38 super

    .38 super Observer

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    Ooooh man, you're so done ... :supergrin:

    Actually I will agree with both of you, on your question I would say: speed ?
     
  16. 21Carrier

    21Carrier Until I Gota 29

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    Guys, PLEASE lets not make this another useless General Glocking pissing contest about why you should or should not lighten a trigger. This is intended for range/target/competition use ONLY, and can be EASILY changed back to factory with a simple trigger bar swap.

    I am one of the ones that think a lighter trigger is unnecessary, and I started this thread. I use a stock-weight trigger in my carry gun, and my G21SF has stayed stock until now. I shoot them both well. A lighter trigger is NOT the right way to shooting better, practice and good technique are. However, a lighter AND BETTER FEELING trigger will help. I am not some newbie struggling with the Glock trigger. I feel like I have learned to be quite good with a stock Glock. That said, there is NOTHING wrong with making it better. Get over it!

    The main reason I did this is that I'm always interested in doing things myself. Plus, think about all the people that have bought expensive aftermarket Glock triggers. You don't hear about them having negligent discharges, do you? No. I did this ONLY to help the Glock community as a whole. If I can have fun, while simultaneously teaching someone something, and saving them lots of money, how is that bad? And to the guy that's worried about dropping the gun, well that's what the Glock's drop safety and firing pin safety are for. If you do this modification right, they are both still operational.

    Back to the thread, I have 4 G21SF trigger bars on the way, and will continue my experimentation when I get them. You can say all you want, but I GUARANTEE if you could feel my G21SF's trigger, you would shut up all that noise. I have no doubt that it will be amazing when I get it right.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  17. robhic

    robhic WOLVERINE!!!! Platinum Member Silver Member

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    Probably because they're not alive to post about it! :supergrin::supergrin::supergrin: I'M JUST KIDDING!!!! I couldn't resist the urge to be a **** about it. I agree that a light trigger is a thing of beauty and a DIY trigger job is an accomplishment. That being said, REALLY light triggers just make mea bit nervous. Maybe I'm too concerned.
     
  18. M&P15T

    M&P15T Beard One

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    It's the "carry" part that concerns me. I'm not worried about how such a trigger would perform in a SD/HD defensive shooting, I'm more worried about NDs.

    And it's not just light, the trigger pull is also dramatically shortened (per the OP.)
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2011
  19. ModGlock17

    ModGlock17

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    Takes me less than 5 min to switch out with the stock set.

    Or be like Barney Fiffer: carry just one bullet outside the gun, because Sheriff Andy Griffith said so. :faint:

    Glock is not for everyone, nor modification of their gun designs.

    Case in point: After shooting an OrlandoPD deputy to death at close range, a buglary suspect ran on foot to a nearby apartment. He scaled the wall to get to the other side. Witnesses said that while grabbing top of the wall with one arm, he reached up to top the wall by his other elbow and forearm, while holding a .40 Glock in hand. He pulled the trigger inadvertantly while pointing the gun at his head. Gone.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2011
  20. Chronos

    Chronos

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    Okay, I'm not completely clear on what this means. It sounds kind of like you're saying the trigger is more like a very light DA revolver pull now, and less like a SA auto with extra-long take-up.

    Some of us like the SA-like trigger break, for all the basic reasons that SA triggers are popular. Does this mod basically trade that away for a light pull?