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I made a glock 19 from an 80% polymer kit and the slide seem to not fully go to the rear of the rails causing the spent brass to not stovepipe but jam horizontally. is this an issue with the recoil spring or ejector?
 

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I made a glock 19 from an 80% polymer kit and the slide seem to not fully go to the rear of the rails causing the spent brass to not stovepipe but jam horizontally. is this an issue with the recoil spring or ejector?
Not sure.
 

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It's an issue with your "polymer" frame, It's not a Glock... Ask the guy who sold you this piece of plastic shieete. Next time buy a real complete gun
 

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+1 go buy a complete Glock pistol.
 
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First the formalities, "patrickho" welcome.
The 80% firearms business is not the ideal situation to be in as you're now the manufacturer. This is Glocktalk, not 80PercentTalk.

I've had horizontal stovepipe problems on two of my own Glocks.
-One was my G17Gen3 with a severe brass-to-face problem. I cured it for the most part with a 30274 ejector. The horizontal stovepipe was later caused by an aftermarket "ApexTactical" extractor. That extractor with all the variations of extractor-depressor-spring and spring-loaded-bearings just wouldn't work reliably in that gun. The G17Gen3 was fully cycling to rear, but the spent casing was held too high and pulled above the ejector, entirely missing the ejector.

Later, I found the extractor would at least work well in my G34Gen3, but the G34Gen3 didn't have a brass-to-face problem to start anyway.

-The other Glock I had with an intermittent horizontal stove pipe issue was an older, used G29Gen2or3 (no light rail). I never did diagnose the problem and later traded it in at a Glock distributor disclosing the problem to them. I didn't want to risk paying the shipping back to Glock with the risk it'd be returned by Glock if they did not find a problem. Shipping at ~$80 to Georgia was going to be out of pocket. With what I know now and suspect, it's possible the frame was somehow out of spec or may even have had cracks which I didn't then know where to look.

Even though I've had this horizontal stovepipe problem with two Glocks, I'm still not completely sure of the causes. Sorry for your troubles, but I agree with the others to stay away from 80% Glocks as that's what I'm going to do (as I've got absolutely zero temptation to even try bothering with one).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
First the formalities, "patrickho" welcome.
The 80% firearms business is not the ideal situation to be in as you're now the manufacturer. This is Glocktalk, not 80PercentTalk.

I've had horizontal stovepipe problems on two of my own Glocks.
-One was my G17Gen3 with a severe brass-to-face problem. I cured it for the most part with a 30274 ejector. The horizontal stovepipe was later caused by an aftermarket "ApexTactical" extractor. That extractor with all the variations of extractor-depressor-spring and spring-loaded-bearings just wouldn't work reliably in that gun. The G17Gen3 was fully cycling to rear, but the spent casing was held too high and pulled above the ejector, entirely missing the ejector.

Later, I found the extractor would at least work well in my G34Gen3, but the G34Gen3 didn't have a brass-to-face problem to start anyway.

-The other Glock I had with an intermittent horizontal stove pipe issue was an older, used G29Gen2or3 (no light rail). I never did diagnose the problem and later traded it in at a Glock distributor disclosing the problem to them. I didn't want to risk paying the shipping back to Glock with the risk it'd be returned by Glock if they did not find a problem. Shipping at ~$80 to Georgia was going to be out of pocket. With what I know now and suspect, it's possible the frame was somehow out of spec or may even have had cracks which I didn't then know where to look.

Even though I've had this horizontal stovepipe problem with two Glocks, I'm still not completely sure of the causes. Sorry for your troubles, but I agree with the others to stay away from 80% Glocks as that's what I'm going to do (as I've got absolutely zero temptation to even try bothering with one).
Thanks for the input and I would buy a manufactured glock but i rather not deal with the red tape and expensive fees to buy a pistol in california and especially the ban of gen 4s and 5s
 

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RE: Post#9.
For any potential Glock-buyer; join GSSF for TWO YEARS minimum (not 1 year):
http://gssfonline.com/registration.cfm

(currently, the standard price for a 2 year membership is $60.)

In ~month, you'll receive a purchase discount certificate to get the Blue Label pricing. Here's a website with probable Blue Label prices:
https://www.lcaction.com/products-page/glock/

As a non-exempt person (e.g. a LEO), you'll be limited to guns on the Roster and mag capacities of ≤10 rounds, but depending on the gun, you may get 3 mags:
http://certguns.doj.ca.gov

(e.g. a G19Gen3 will typically sell for $425.)

You'll need the usual proofs of residency and firearms safety certificate; and do the safety demonstration (does anyone ever fail that test?); then return after your 10 or 11 day waiting period.

Or you can try building an 80% gun which may not work 100% (maybe that's what 80% really means; it only works ~80% of the time. JK, kind of...)
 
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The CA DOJ requires you to register any hand gun, whether you built it or bought it. Failure to do so is a felony.
 

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I made a glock 19 from an 80% polymer kit and the slide seem to not fully go to the rear of the rails causing the spent brass to not stovepipe but jam horizontally. is this an issue with the recoil spring or ejector?
Mine works 100% without any issues, actually waiting on parts for my second build. Send me a PM also check the gunsmithing section, there is a thread about the P80% 15 pages of good info.

I love the grip specially because there is no finger grooves, the trigger guard undercut, and no hump.

I spent a lot more than a regular glock, and I could have bought a blue label one but decided on this route and have no regrets.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Come on folks, if you have nothing to contribute, why post?

My 80% works 100%. If you're not getting full rearward travel on the slide, I would check the rails. The front rails are sometimes difficult to install, and have to be fully inserted. If you've got the screws in place, you're good. Next would be the rear "rails" On the full size, they are polymer, not sure on the 80% compact frame. Make sure they are in the same plane, that one is not higher or lower than the other. A caliper would tell you using the depth gauge feature. If the rear rails are cut from the polymer frame, it's easy to cut them high. Make sure the bottom shelf of the rail is level with the frame.

You might try painting each of the rear rails (one at a time) with some liquid paper. Mount the slide and move it full back, then remove the slide. The white out should be evenly marked. Any areas where it's fully removed might be a bit high. The fronts are metal, and hard to mess up.

Welcome to GT, and please post updates.
 

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If the slide is a Glock OEM 19, you could always buy a OEM frame from Gunbroker if your state allows it and the seller sells to California residents. But it would have to got an FFL since the frame is the serialized part of a Glock.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Come on folks, if you have nothing to contribute, why post?

My 80% works 100%. If you're not getting full rearward travel on the slide, I would check the rails. The front rails are sometimes difficult to install, and have to be fully inserted. If you've got the screws in place, you're good. Next would be the rear "rails" On the full size, they are polymer, not sure on the 80% compact frame. Make sure they are in the same plane, that one is not higher or lower than the other. A caliper would tell you using the depth gauge feature. If the rear rails are cut from the polymer frame, it's easy to cut them high. Make sure the bottom shelf of the rail is level with the frame.

You might try painting each of the rear rails (one at a time) with some liquid paper. Mount the slide and move it full back, then remove the slide. The white out should be evenly marked. Any areas where it's fully removed might be a bit high. The fronts are metal, and hard to mess up.

Welcome to GT, and please post updates.
The slide feels as smooth as any oem glock but ill give it a try and it passes all the function tests IAW the TM. I just bought a different ejector so ill try that as well.

thanks
 

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I made a glock 19 from an 80% polymer kit and the slide seem to not fully go to the rear of the rails causing the spent brass to not stovepipe but jam horizontally. is this an issue with the recoil spring or ejector?
Slides and 80 polymer frames need to be hand fitted... very carefully.
 

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I made a glock 19 from an 80% polymer kit and the slide seem to not fully go to the rear of the rails causing the spent brass to not stovepipe but jam horizontally. is this an issue with the recoil spring or ejector?
I've made 2 of the P80's, and they both had initial problems. The first one I made just suddenly started functioning flawlessly one day at the range. I can only surmise that there is a fitment issue with the locking lug mating with the slide stop and it finally reached a tolerance threshold that allowed full cycling and is my favorite range gun now. The second one has the same issue almost exactly. That barrel lug just has to learn to "break" smoothly. It happens because of what is referred to as "tolerance stacking" from getting parts from different manufacturers, and each part may be just a mil out of spec, but add up it's mating surface or irregularity, and it causes a problem. But afterall, debugging is what makes it so rewarding (at least for me :^) I put a lot of Duralube on the lugs and rails to break it in...Just my 8 bits worth.
 

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If the slide is a Glock OEM 19, you could always buy a OEM frame from Gunbroker if your state allows it and the seller sells to California residents. But it would have to got an FFL since the frame is the serialized part of a Glock.
Not allowed in CA (for several years now). Has to be a complete gun.
 
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