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I’m looking getting a Ford super duty, but the one I am eyeing has everything I want except it doesn’t have a gooseneck prep kit. Is this something that people do aftermarket often and is it as good as the factory would do it? I will be towing a horse trailer so I need the gooseneck. And the ones that have it from the factory do not have some of the other features I want, hence the conundrum.

Was also thinking about a Rhino spray in Bedliner aftermarket as well and would love opinions on it vs factory.

Lastly, does anyone get the paint ceramic coated for protection? Or undercoating for rust protection from salt and debris? The sales guy today was trying to sell me on both the paint and undercoating.

Thanks for any help!
 

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Don't buy the ceramic coating or undercoating. You can DIY a ceramic coating for ~$100-$150 or use a hybrid for $20 a year.

Undercoating causes more issues then it helps in my experience. Just keep the under side of the truck washed and maybe use some of the rust preventative sprays if it's bad in your neck of the woods. New cars are much more protected then before.

I would want the bed liner and goose neck prep from the factory not aftermarket but that's just me. Not a fan of them cutting into the truck afterwards. I also would guess the factory may be welded in where the aftermarket is bolted. They are probably fine but on our Ram3500 I preferred the factory setup vs aftermarket.
 

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You can get the same gooseneck as the factory setup...of course you could get a different one if you so choose.
The spray in bed liner works great.
Ceramic works very well.
I have no experience with the undercoating.

Esse quam videri
 

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The factory available GN hitch is high quality and you can also find anything you need at etrailer.com. Great prices, best products, quick delivery.

...Properly installed... undercoating will be a benefit especially in salt-prone areas. You can have it done locally, research it and find a quality shop that takes pride in their work. Same goes with bed liner. Good luck, congrats.
 

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I'll try to help when you deign to list where you live, so I can understand the conditions the truck will be used under.
 

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I have a F450 I bought to pull my boat last spring. As for a gooseneck prep package there are tons of options that work great out there. I have a 5th wheel hitch in the bed but don’t need it. I couldn’t tell you one way or another with the undercoat. I won’t keep this truck for longer than 4-5 years so I never worried about it and don’t even know if my truck came with that. I don’t know if it’s a good option to get or if it’s just a waste of money.

I had a 2500 Denali Duramax that was my daily driver and I used it to pull my boat too. I will tow from FL to MA and I wanted more truck so I got a car for my daily driver and decided to get a bigger truck. My boat loaded on the trailer is around 15-16k with trailer and is just less than 48’ long from tongue to tip of propellers.


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I wouldn't undercoat unless it's a new frame. Even when they clean an older frame they never get all the problem areas and the undercoat will start to fail there.

I would look into some type of oil coating. In my area a lot of people DIY their frame protection with used motor oil, but used motor oil can be corrosive to things like brake lines. Hydraulic oil doesn't get that way so it's better to use used hydraulic oil. At least that's what I've been told.
 

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Skip the ceramic diamond coating. The dust bunnies will just f your truck up. Make sure you polish all the railroad dust off within the first 6mths.

I'd avoid the diesels if you can. Don't buy any SRW truck without the elocker. Make sure you get the outfitter switches.

No undercoating. Instead use fluid film spray can inside the frame. And brush on the Woolrich Black version on the outside. Gallon jug. Get the axles as well.

Avoid the adaptive steering. The E boosted steering is fine though. Avoid the moon roof. Avoid as many options as possible. A 350 gas SRW, CC, 4X4 is about $44k, diesels are $55k. Keep that in mind when you see a $75 k sticker. Fake leather, and chinese doo dads aren't worth $20k, and have no business on a real truck.

Toe in. If you have any issues, add toe in and caster.

Just order Fox 2.0's or Bilsteins right now.

I have Rhino Liner. It's a must have to protect the bed. Make sure to add two 2" holes at the front of the bed. It gets scratched up easier than LineX, but RL is rubbery, LineX is like a metal cheese grater on skin.

Check over the cosmetics of the truck thoroughly. They aren't covered under warranty. Bed cab alignment, careful, the cab is a hair wider, so don't freak out. Door alignment. Avoid the silver painted ones. The metallic grey ones seem ok though.
 

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I would rustproof the truck. A $40,000 + new truck or even a cheap car for that matter would only add to the value if and when its sold. They say metal is better today. But i still see ruted out cars and trucks.
 

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...Properly installed... undercoating will be a benefit especially in salt-prone areas. You can have it done locally, research it and find a quality shop that takes pride in their work. Same goes with bed liner. Good luck, congrats.
There is a boatload of info out there that says otherwise. The coating eventually holds the salt and moisture in basically causing the steel to rot away.

Here is an example I have seen a dozen times over the years....

 

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I have always had my fifth wheel hitches installed by anyone but the dealer.

As far as bed liners go. I don't care for any of them.
I bought a used 1 ton once that had a Rhino spray on liner already. First trip to get some bales of hay I decided I didn't like them. It made it that much more difficult to drag the bales out of the bed. Too much traction.

It's a truck. I don't care if the bed gets scratches or dings.
I guess if I were considering trading it in, instead of running unit it drops like I usually do, I could have a spray on line done to cover up the damage I did using my truck as a truck. :dunno:
 

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If you have a good shop local to you, the aftermarket gooseneck prep kit, for the same $, are a better bet. If not, the factory is a better bet. Since you want some features not offered by the factory, I'd lean towards getting it done, even if you have to drive a ways. Undercoating is a big no from me. You are better off paying the monthly car wash and getting the truck washed on a regular basis.

I have no opinion on the ceramic coating as I have never done it or known anyone that has had it long term. But I do know that if you do the car wash weekly and once a year do a quality wax on the paint, it will last a LONG time. My 2003 (which my son just rolled and totalled) had exceptional paint 17 years old, and it was waxed once a year, and that was not just a one time thing. The wife's 2011 gets washed weekly in the winter, a little less in the summer, but a once a year detail with wax and the interior conditioned. Her monthly unlimited wash pass is $22, so she only needs 2 washes to pay for it, which she hits in the summer, but in the winter, it is at least 4 a month. The same place will do a hand rubbed premium wax after a car was for $99, but I do it myself. Paint looks new.

I am a fan of spray on bed liners. Have had them on the last three trucks and the next 2500 I get will have one as well.
 

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I wouldn't undercoat unless it's a new frame. Even when they clean an older frame they never get all the problem areas and the undercoat will start to fail there.

I would look into some type of oil coating. In my area a lot of people DIY their frame protection with used motor oil, but used motor oil can be corrosive to things like brake lines. Hydraulic oil doesn't get that way so it's better to use used hydraulic oil. At least that's what I've been told.
You should have got the Tru-coat.

 

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There is a 3M Body Wax product that the newer cars coming off the assy line are having installed - as OE.

It is in an aerosol can with a long snorkel tube on it. You can do it yourself - but there are a lot of nooks and crannies that need to be treated.

Check this vid out at 06:33 for the cavity wax - or body wax spray system..... just to give you an idea of what you're up against....

View: https://youtu.be/oYSgWOEjMd0
 

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I'd avoid the diesels if you can. Don't buy any SRW truck without the elocker. Make sure you get the outfitter switches.

Avoid the adaptive steering. The E boosted steering is fine though. Avoid the moon roof. Avoid as many options as possible. A 350 gas SRW, CC, 4X4 is about $44k, diesels are $55k. Keep that in mind when you see a $75 k sticker. Fake leather, and chinese doo dads aren't worth $20k, and have no business on a real truck.
Man you don’t want any creature comforts do you? I hope you Atleast get AC. LOL. My grandfather was the same way. Never drove anything but a single cab work truck. Personally I always load up my vehicles so I got the King Ranch trim on my F450 but would’ve preferred Platinum trim as I’m not 100% crazy about the king ranch seats. I’ve never liked Fords but I wanted a 450/4500 and had to choose between Ford and Ram. I couldn’t find any Rams but completely stripped down commercial trucks unless I ordered one. I don’t drive it a whole lot so I decided to live with the king ranch seats. I put line x in the bed too.

Why would you not want a diesel in a HD truck that’s going to be used for towing? You are right that a diesel vs gas is about $10k but honestly that diesel will sell for $10k more when it’s time to sell. You can’t give away a gas HD trucks around here.

I agree with you totally about silver. Those trucks always have tons of paint issues and never look right to me.


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IMO aftermarket for GN all the way. 5th wheel for a unit you totally remove, have empty truck bed I would look at factory.
A good shop, someone who has done a few, can measure can do a dang nice job.
A local shop rents inside floor space in winter weekends. Guy next to me put in a B&W turnover ball in his dads truck in less then 2 hrs. It looked great. I asked “$400 to install“ he did a lot of little things. Flipped over it’s basically a clean truck bed for other uses.
IMO bedliner after hitch installed. (But ask of course).

For future. You might decade to leave horses at home, more room then cramped living quarters.. 5th wheel camper.
Neat thing is there are bolt on platforms for GN hitch to make it a tower for 5th wheel trailers. Do NOT stick a GN downward conversion on a 5th wheel camper. The stress angles are different. Voids any warranty on trailer... it works great until you get in mud, stuck, back up hard with hill.
Also consider carefully if you get iirc the Anderson hitch.
https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3220-Aluminum-Connection-Gooseneck/dp/B00TAPLR1W Between the two parts IMO it moves the actual hitch point well behind you axle.

Dsl, vs gas. You have to decide.i use gas daily. The 350 dsl gets most miles hooked to something. I have the 7.3. Under 90k. Because my half ton gas does all the running around, empty trailers, pick up few hundred lbs stuff.
 
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