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Discussion Starter #21
Higher speed ratings(H in this case) tend to handle and brake slightly better while lower ratings tend to have a slightly more comfortable ride and a bit slower tread wear. Doubt you'll really notice a difference on a Corolla.
Personally I wouldn't worry about car tires aging out unless she's only driving 4,000 miles a year. FYI if she's driving somewhere with ice/snow those tires have pretty mediocre ratings for winter/snow driving as well as tread wear on Tire Rack.
I doubt that she drove 2500 last year. Her current tires are 9 years old.
 

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ALWAYS buy what the manufacturer put on the car, unless you want to educate yourself on the trade offs involved. Open the door and read the sticker, or open the manual and go to the index to find the specifications page.
Only if you were satisfied driving with the original tires. The first Toyota I ever bought was a 1986 Camry. The tires that it came with were the worst I have ever seen. It would hydroplane if there was a heavy dew on the road. If you hit a small puddle in the roadway, your fate was in the hands of God for a few seconds.

I drove it that way for a month or so; then took it in and let the dealer service manager drive it on a rainy day. They replaced the tires with another brand....without charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
At the same cost, I would get the higher speed rating. Very few US passenger cars have speed limiters, and most that do, they are higher than either of those speed ratings.
I have had only one vehicle with a speed limiter and it is my diesel Excursion, and I believe it is set at 105 mph. I am not inclined to drive that fast in it anyway, as the stability is not that great approaching those speeds. However, my tire’s speed rating exceeds the top speed the vehicle.
I have hit the speed limiter on EVERY car I have owned or driven consistently in the last 25 years.
The lowest I found was on an early 2000s Impala at 107. Highest was a approximately 2010 Dodge Charger at 156.
 

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Not a Falken fan. Last set I had were way too stiff for the car, and rubber was indeed hard. Very loud tire, too, and rain performance was poor. It has been a while back, and I can't give details on the tire version, the well may have been a poor match for the car. But I was not impressed w/ them in any regard, after break in and use.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Not a Falken fan. Last set I had were way too stiff for the car, and rubber was indeed hard. Very loud tire, too, and rain performance was poor. It has been a while back, and I can't give details on the tire version, the well may have been a poor match for the car. But I was not impressed w/ them in any regard, after break in and use.
I had some on my BMW 535i. The rode well, but were rotation specific, so that created a problem with the spare, as I prefer to run a full size spare that matches the existing tires.
 

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Do they both have the same amout of predicted miles on them before they wear out?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Do they both have the same amount of predicted miles on them before they wear out?
The "H"s have a 75,000 mile warranty, the "T"s are 80,000. And price is the same.
 

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The "H"s have a 75,000 mile warranty, the "T"s are 80,000. And price is the same.
I have a thing for liking the tread pattern on my tires, pick the ones that are the most apealing
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I have a thing for liking the tread pattern on my tires, pick the ones that are the most apealing
Most of us would be unwilling to admit how often we pick something because of "feel" or "looks".
In this case they look the same. The difference is very subtle, in the rubber composition.
 

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ALWAYS buy what the manufacturer put on the car, unless you want to educate yourself on the trade offs involved. Open the door and read the sticker, or open the manual and go to the index to find the specifications page.
LOL you mean like the inferior Firestines that Ford put on the 200x series Exploders and then doubled-down by including a 6x9 card in the owner’s manual that told owners to inflate 5 pounds or so under what the door placard said to use? Yeah, that caused some folks to get injured and some others to die. OEM is often the cheapest material and worst for performance. I’ll stick to common best practices and learned knowledge over their “expertise.” FWIW, I owned one of those death traps.
 

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I have hit the speed limiter on EVERY car I have owned or driven consistently in the last 25 years.
The lowest I found was on an early 2000s Impala at 107. Highest was a approximately 2010 Dodge Charger at 156.
Speed limiter, or ran out of horsepower? Not the same.

I stand corrected on Dodge, maybe after they were bought by Mercedes or FCA they started using limiters. Another reason to never own a Dodge.

maybe I just buy the right kind of car. Many modern cars can go past 130mph, the rating on a H rated tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Speed limiter, or ran out of horsepower? Not the same.
I stand corrected on Dodge, maybe after they were bought by Mercedes or FCA they started using limiters. Another reason to never own a Dodge.
maybe I just buy the right kind of car. Many modern cars can go past 130mph, the rating on a H rated tire.
I know the difference between "running out of steam" and hitting the speed limiter. The speed limiter will always hit at the same speed, even going down a steep hill.
 

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Neither one of those tire ratings is low enough to actually worry about her exceeding, so going by them it's pretty much a moot point.
One tire has an 80k mile warranty, the other a 75k mile warranty. Again, if she is only driving 2500 miles a year, the warranty is also a moot point.

There is no real reason to get the higher speed rating, which has a slightly lower warranty/expected lifespan. All else being equal though, the one with the longer warranty suggests a slightly harder rubber compound or some other reason why it would wear slightly slower than the other one.

I say it doesn't matter one single bit in this situation. Price is same, expected performance is the same, expected lifespan is almost the same. There really isn't anything to suggest one is better than the other for this situation, so go with either one.
 

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Speed limiter, or ran out of horsepower? Not the same.

I stand corrected on Dodge, maybe after they were bought by Mercedes or FCA they started using limiters. Another reason to never own a Dodge.

maybe I just buy the right kind of car. Many modern cars can go past 130mph, the rating on a H rated tire.
Speed ratings are for sustained use at those speeds. It's not like a T rated tire is going to blow out if you hit 125 for a bit. The vast majority of people aren't going 100+ MPH even if their vehicle can.

Though most vehicles on the road aren't performance vehicles. They're vehicles with a little 4 cylinder engine that most manufacturers are putting in everything for fuel economy, or large SUVs with not particularly impressive 6 cylinders. Most of them are going to get real shaky way before they hit 130 even if they can.
 

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I have hit the speed limiter on EVERY car I have owned or driven consistently in the last 25 years.
The lowest I found was on an early 2000s Impala at 107. Highest was a approximately 2010 Dodge Charger at 156.
I got you beat for lowest speed limiter. 2020 Chevy Silverado Trail Boss LT crew cab with short bed and 6.2 V8 on 275/65-18 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tires. Factory set speed limiter is 98mph. This truck wants to run fast, but isn't allowed.

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Most of us would be unwilling to admit how often we pick something because of "feel" or "looks".
In this case they look the same. The difference is very subtle, in the rubber composition.
For a moment I had to stop and realize you weren't talking about women or guns.



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The "stickier" the tire, the faster it will wear out. I had some super-sporty tires on a sports sedan for a while, Z-rated tires, they made the thing handle like a rail car but they lasted barely 20000 miles each time.

FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #39
The "stickier" the tire, the faster it will wear out. I had some super-sporty tires on a sports sedan for a while, Z-rated tires, they made the thing handle like a rail car but they lasted barely 20000 miles each time.FYI
With sportscar tires that makes complete sense. My M3 BMW and my motorcycle make me aware of the performance vs. longevity ratio all the time.
 
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Only if you were satisfied driving with the original tires. The first Toyota I ever bought was a 1986 Camry. The tires that it came with were the worst I have ever seen. It would hydroplane if there was a heavy dew on the road. If you hit a small puddle in the roadway, your fate was in the hands of God for a few seconds.

I drove it that way for a month or so; then took it in and let the dealer service manager drive it on a rainy day. They replaced the tires with another brand....without charge.
Cool story... The door sticker, the specs page, my post- nothing I referred to dictates make and model of tire; only size, load rating, speed rating, etc.
If one cares enough to educate themselves as to the trade offs inherent in changing sizes (+zero refers to wider tread, less sidewall, same height, for example), load rating, speed rating- then proceed. Otherwise, stick to spec. It goes without saying that you should be a good shopper and choose the best tire so that you improve on the make and model of the tires you are replacing.
 
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