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GSSF Tip #16-35

Discussion in 'GSSF' started by BCarver, Jul 27, 2003.

  1. BCarver

    BCarver CLM Millennium Member

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    This week's question is being hosted by Matt Kartozian.

    Question: What work do you do to your stock gun, beyond perfect sight-in? Like trigger work . . . polishing . . . sight choice . . . etc?

    Response to Question:
    First you have to pick a gun. For Am-Civ, Am-LE and Stockmaster my preferred pistol is the 17C with a solid barrel as it gives you the most options and a few advantages.

    An amateur shooter can shoot their 17C with a solid barrel in the stock classes and use the ported barrel for Competition class. You customize one gun and still have the ideal setup for two classes with just a barrel swap. The other advantage of the 17C is that the slide is slightly lighter which will give you faster slide speed and less muzzle flip.

    The first and most important thing to change on your GSSF gun is the sights. The factory sights do not offer enough light around the sides of the front when they are aligned and they are not very durable.

    The best sights are Bomars and Heinies. I prefer Bomars as they are precision click adjustable and you can match your sights to your load and hold preference. For people that prefer fixed sights Heinie makes the SlantPro in both plain black and tritium night sights. Heinies are also an excellent choice for those that want to compete with their carry/defense gun, as they are best combat sights as well.

    With either brand I prefer a modified version of the sights. With the Heinies I use the CGR Race Cut version. The rear notch is re-cut to allow more light around the sides of the front sight for better accuracy and faster sight acquisition.

    For Bomars I also prefer the CGR version. The standard rear blade with the large diagonally cut corners is replaced with a full rectangular target blade. The rear notch is wider and the front sight is thinner. Standard Glock Bomars are .115 rear/.135 front. CGR Bomars are .125 rear/.118 front. The full rear blade allows for a cleaner more precise sight picture and the wider rear/thinner front allow for faster sight acquisition and more precision.

    The next thing to work on is the trigger system. I remove all of the trigger components from the gun so they individually fit to the gun. All surfaces are smoothed, deburred and reshaped for optimal fit. After all fitting is complete I then polish all of the components with Simichrome and a high-speed buffing wheel until the parts have a mirror finish. The connector-triggerbar interface is lubed with a generous glob of Slide Glide #1. I have tried hundreds of lubes over the years and have found Slide Glide to be the best for this area. When complete the gun will have a 3.25—3.5 pound break weight with a clean crisp trigger. It will also have less stacking a faster reset and reduced overtravel.

    While I am doing the final polish of the trigger components I also clean up the feedramp. It is stripped of the black coating, deburred and smoothed with several grades of rubber and paste abrasives and then given a mirror finish with Simichrome. While this is not always necessary it will not hurt anything and I have found makes feeding a little smoother.

    I then respring the gun. As you are allowed to use Glock factory parts from other guns I use a CGR Speed Spring which is a 19 spring on a 17 rod. The 19 spring has a shorter freelength that allows the slide to cycle faster and reduce muzzle flip.

    Lastly I add grip tape to the frame. There are lots of options with stick on and sock types but I prefer skateboard tape. It has a good adhesive and a very rough and durable surface that works well in all conditions. I clean the frame first with acetone and then with denatured alcohol so the adhesive has a clean surface to stick to. I also spray the back of the skate tape with 3M Super 77 adhesive and once cured it will not move or shift unless you want it to.

    I prefer actual skateboard tape to the precut stuff as the skateboard tape is rougher and has a better adhesive.

    At this point I also cut a thin strip of 60 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper and attach it to the underside of the triggerguard with 3M double-sided adhesive. This allows me to full use the Burkett pinch and roll grip without having to serrate the triggerguard.

    Now go find a load that groups well in your gun and have fun.

    This topic response was posted by Bobby Carver for Matt Kartozian
     
  2. Glock Dave

    Glock Dave

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    I thought this was a no no for anything but Unlimited. I was under the impression that you could not physically alter any parts, this seems to be more than just polishing them.
     

  3. Custom Glock Racing

    Custom Glock Racing I did it first. Millennium Member

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    I cant go into too many details (given away our secrets) but the GSSF Stock Racer trigger described in the article is approved for GSSF stock use.
     
  4. Custom Glock Racing

    Custom Glock Racing I did it first. Millennium Member

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  5. Fireglock

    Fireglock Which is worse?

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    I like the 3M traction tape they sell at Home Depot, etc. A couple of bucks will do 5 or 6 guns. It's extremely aggressive but doesn't cause me any discomfort even in long practice sessions. It may well be similar to the skateboard tape Matt uses but is easy to find. On the sights I go with the Bomars and a .115 front blade. Like Matt says, easy to pickup your target and easy to get back on target for your second shot.
     
  6. Sniper 7.62

    Sniper 7.62

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    Once again Nice job Bobby