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Glock will not fire after changing springs

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by rdbjr57, Jun 15, 2012.

  1. rdbjr57

    rdbjr57

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    I've mucked up my Glock 22 :crying:

    I replaced the 3 springs with a ZEV spring kit and put a new connector in. I had some trouble getting the gun back together (specifically the trigger pin.)

    Once I did get it back together (slide, etc.) the gun will not fire. I can rack the slide with no issues, but it will not fire.

    And as most of you probably know, if you can't dry fire a Glock, you can't get the slide off. (Or at least you can't the normal way!)

    Can someone tell me how to proceed?
     
  2. JBP55

    JBP55

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    Lock the slide back and remove the back plate. After removing the firing pin the slide can be removed. Replace all OEM Glock parts and shoot the gun.
     

  3. voyager4520

    voyager4520 -----

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    Which connector did you install? Some of the Ghost brand connectors have an overtravel tab that must be filed down to fit your specific gun, until it's filed down the right amount you can't dry fire. Here are their instructions for filing down the overtravel tab:
    http://www.ghostinc.com/category/istallationinstructions/

    I'm not a fan of aftermarket firing pin and trigger springs, it takes too much experimentation to find a reliable combo and when the springs become weak the gun can suddenly become unreliable.
     
  4. ron59

    ron59 Bustin Caps

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    My buddy was detail stripping his and put it back together and it wouldn't fire. He tried it again and still wouldn't (he has done it multiple times successfully before this).

    We got together so I could see what he was doing. He put the trigger bar on the trigger spring differently than how I do (he was doing it with the spring pointing out the back, I do it with the spring pointed forward). Anyway, he got the bar on there, but when he moved it forward and spun it around... he was twisting it the wrong way. Hard to explain but it was causing the same exact symptoms.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2012
  5. AA#5

    AA#5

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    I hope that wasn't your house or carry Glock.

    If you want to tinker & change Glock's parts with non-OEM parts, you need a spare Glock that you can play with (if you don't already have one). That's what I did when I wanted to learn how to disassemble & reassemble a S&W revolver.
     
  6. MrVvrroomm

    MrVvrroomm

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    [​IMG]

    Make sure your trigger spring looks like the above picture. It must be shaped like an "S", not a backward "S" as you're looking at it as pictured.
     
  7. TxGlock9

    TxGlock9

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    I'm going to go with Ron on this one..

    Look down the trigger housing where the trigger Spring sits. One attaches to the trigger bar itself and the other attaches obviously to the actually plastic housing piece.. Now make sure that the trigger Spring on the trigger bar! is in it's DETENT position. Meaning centered. You'll have probably have to use a flashlight or put the frame of the gun near a light source to see.

    In the end the good news is it's probably you that jacked it up and not the pistol itself... Happy hunting!
     
  8. Butch

    Butch RetiredDinosaur Millennium Member CLM

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  9. Butch

    Butch RetiredDinosaur Millennium Member CLM

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    If you have the new style trigger bar (bottom in the pic) be sure the trigger spring is hooked correctly on the trigger bar....'with the curve'.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. JGlockman

    JGlockman

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    I'm surprised this hasn't been said yet... But why are you modifying a firearm when you have no idea what you are doing?

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
     
  11. rdbjr57

    rdbjr57

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    I took JBP55's advice and got back "in" to the gun (G22) by locking the slide back and taking the back plate off.

    The problem is the ZEV V4 Race Connector (which my understanding was to be a simple drop in part rather than a "must fit" part.)

    I put the original connector back in the 22 and it worked fine.

    I tried putting the V4 in a 17 and got the same results as it was in the 22 (could not dry fire). I put the original connector back in the 17 and it now works fine also.

    Any ideas on what the problem could be with the ZEV V4 Connector?

    Thanks for any insight you can provide!
     
  12. bruzer

    bruzer

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    Excellent information so far.
    Mike
     
  13. voyager4520

    voyager4520 -----

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    If the connector is the cause of the failure to fire, the bend angle of the connector isn't correct. It's bent too far inward to the trigger housing. If you look at the link to the Ghost Inc website in my above post, further down the page are instructions on how to check and adjust the bend angle of the connector, which applies to all Glock connectors not just the Ghost brand.

    Scroll down to "SECTION II: INSTALLATION ROCKET & TACTICAL" then scroll down to "Note:".

    As well you should make sure that the bottom of the connector is fully seated into the trigger housing.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2012
  14. banger

    banger

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    It always surprises me...

    How many people SPEND MONEY....

    To make their Glocks LESS RELIABLE.
     
  15. robs67stang

    robs67stang

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    It always surprises me how many people on this site want to chime in with totally worthless crap like "don't ever mess with your glock" or other things of that nature, rather than helping with a problem. rdbg57, listen to the folks that are here helping you out and disregard the other useless banter, there is a lot of smart people on here. Last time I checked, this forum is about helping each other out. Come on guys!
     
  16. DannyR

    DannyR Moderator Millennium Member

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    I try to assist by discouraging the use of aftermarket parts in an attempt to purchase accuracy.

    I try to assist by encouraging folks to take the Glock Armorer's Class, where one will learn the proper way to disassemble and reassemble a Glock as well as troubleshoot issues.

    My attempts are usually in vain.:upeyes:
     
  17. M&P15T

    M&P15T Beard One

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    I'd like to support your ideas here, because you're trying to be "nice"......but I can't.

    Let's look at what GLOCK pistols are.

    They are the most popular handgun on the American market ever, by far, with millions of them in the hands of LEOs and civilans. Therefore, a massive "aftermarket" for GLOCK parts and accessories has developed over the decades.

    Do you think the people that produce, market and sell all of the aftermarket products for GLOCK pistols do so to be "nice", or to be helpful? Of course not, it's all about the Benjamins, period. It's about making money by convincing people that their GLOCK pistol just isn't right without this or that aftermarket part. It's about convincing people they need to attempt to turn their GLOCK into a "fighting tactical urban carbine".:rofl::rofl:

    So what are GLOCK pistols? In automotive terms, they are "ricers", like Honda and Toyota cars that are modded to try and make them faster and better looking. Just like with GLOCK pistols, the fact that there are so many Hondas and Toyotas on the road, created a massive after-market for every imaginable type of part and accessory one could want for their ricer......and 85% of it is crap.

    Toyotas, Hondas and GLOCKs are similar in that they all have HUGE aftermarkets that are FILLED with crapola parts that usually do nothing more than lower the performance and reliability when they are installed. Not to mention how idiots that just have to have the latest and greatest "mod" for their GLOCK (or Toyota or Honda) usually screw something up attempting the install themselves. Just like with Honda and Toyotas, GLOCK pistols are at their best when they left the factory. And just like Hondas and Toyotas, all of the aftermarket tripe that newbs swallow as the latest and the greatest, is just trying to turn their GLOCK (or Honda/Toyota) into something it was never meant to be.

    The truth is, that just like Hondas and Toyotas, GLOCKs are cheap appliances for broke, juvenile newbs that want to turn their "rides" into something better than what anyone else has. And all they do is **** up their "ride" by swallowing the marketing tripe.

    Hondas, Toyotas and GLOCKs don't need to be moded. They don't need aftermarket parts to make them run very, very good for a long, long time. The only reason the aftermarket exists for those three name-plates is because there are so many of them out there, and hence a ton of opportunity to make money by marketing to kids.

    Hell, if you really want to "mod" something, at least do it right and start with an AR. That way you can blow epic ammounts of money for stuff that actually will make your AR perform better, or look different from the other guy's AR.

    ETA: None of the above applies to the GEN4 GLOCKs, as they have some serious design & manufacturing issues.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2012
  18. leedesert

    leedesert Diss--Member

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    MP15,
    Your post was completely unnecessary and served nothing other than to make yourself sound like you have some superior intelligence that escapes the rest of us.
    I've owned many Glocks over my time as well as other guns. While you can screw up a Glock by doing thing's wrong its not very hard to correct. Parts from reputable companies usually do well and if installed properly have no problems.
    What I find funny is your analogy to the M16/AR15 variants. If any rifle is the "ricer" of rifles that one truly is.
    I once had a stock surplus Colt M16A2 that was issued to me in LE. Many of the high speed modern versions with rails that could hold an air conditioner would show up on range day and I would out shoot all of them most of the time.
    One thing I do know is when I use to be into the car tuning phase of my life I never hung out with the ricers much less try to educate someone I thought was a ricer by going to their hangout and berate them.

    Sent via mental telepathy.
     
  19. M&P15T

    M&P15T Beard One

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    How? Did I use unnecessarily big words? No. I used an example of cars that all of us knuckle-draggers can understand. About the only way I tried to be smart, was to go back and check for spelling and grammar mistakes. But I'd bet an English teacher could still tear my post apart.

    13 GLOCks over 20+ years here, alongside others. The point is that there is largely no reason for most of these after-market parts, the factory ones work well and offer the highest level of reliablity. The many, many posts just like this one in this forum speak to that truth.

    When discusing ARs in particular, things like optics (Aimpoints, Eotechs, ACOGs) dramatically enhance the capabilities of their users, especially in low light. Other things like fore-grips, lights and light/NOD combos also bring entirely new and awesome capabilities to ARs.

    Sure, you may shoot better at 100 yards slow-fire at a stationary target "on range day" than another (less experienced/talented/trained) shooter with a loaded AR. But your performance will pale in comparison to someone with equal capabilities and training, in low-light/tight quarters, under massive stress. Attachments like optics, lights, lasers, etc. really help at such times.

    So? What point are you trying to make? I've owned 13 GLOCK pistols, carry one, and love them. What makes ricers ricers, is that they try to turn their machines into something they were never designed or built to be. If you want to modify something and make it faster, start with something that is meant to be fast, like a Supra Turbo. Not a 1988 Accord.

    GLOCKs are meant to be durable and reliable service pistols, not race guns or combat assault tactical carbines.

    I think you're getting all upset because your definition of "ricer" is different than mine. You think I would use that word as an insult to all Japanese car modders, and that's not what it means to me.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2012
  20. Rustin

    Rustin

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    Stop messing with the internals! The Glock has a good reputation with the OEM parts.