Glock smooth Trigger Pull myth?

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Shenron, Oct 28, 2010.

  1. Shenron

    Shenron

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    Hey, so I have read in a thousand different places that if you use the 3.5# connector and the NY1 Trigger spring in a Glock(G22 for example) that you keep the same 5.5# trigger pull but it smooths it up a lot. I am wondering if there is any truth to this?

    Because I talked to a Glock Tech on the phone the other day and he said it does smooth it up but it makes the trigger pull 8 pounds.

    Thoughts? Comments?
     
  2. skyboss_4evr

    skyboss_4evr

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    It makes the trigger feel like a DA revolver trigger. A little heavier, but the weight is consistent throughout the pull.
     

  3. D-Rock

    D-Rock

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    It will also make the pull a little longer before the break. Smooth pull will only come with some light polishing and use. Smooth for a Glock anyway. If you use an 8 lb connector with extra power trigger bar spring you will end up with about a 6lb trigger that has less required travel before it frees the striker. I have done every trigger mod imaginable, and at this point I think that the best setup for cheap is either just a ghost rocket/tactical connector or keeping it bone stock. Anytime you make a Glock trigger very light it will have a soft reset, which some don't mind. I personally like a strong and crisp reset. The ghost will limit overtravel, but also make the sear/trigger travel greater before the break. It will also get you around a 4.5-5lb pull. The other route is to go whole hawg and spend the loot to get a custom setup. I have the Glockworx Fulcrum with lightweight striker and it is a very nice setup for a Glock. It is overpriced though, and the trigger bar with travel adjustments is the only part that really makes a noticeable difference. It can be bought by itself and is worth the high price. I also hear that the Vanek kits are awesome. There are others as well. Really, the only thing holding the Glock's trigger performance back is its basic design. It is meant to be safe and reliable, but will simply never feel like a match 1911.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2010
  4. KaPPaBaLL

    KaPPaBaLL MemberScratcher

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    This...

    My opinion on it is I've done a polish job on my stock G34(comes with stock 3.5/4.5 connector) and after doing so the break is a lot more crisp and the pre-travel has smoothed out quite a bit. I'm very satisfied.
     
  5. Shenron

    Shenron

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    " If you use an 8 lb connector with extra power trigger bar spring you will end up with about a 6lb trigger that has less required travel before it frees the striker."

    Are you talking about a NY2 Trigger Spring?
     
  6. samuse

    samuse

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    I tried the NY1 & 3.5lc connector. I hated it.

    It makes the trigger have a very "springy" feel and the reset is hard to control.

    It didn't feel like any of my D/A revolvers.
     
  7. Shenron

    Shenron

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    Well, that answers that. I was hoping to make a smoother trigger pull by just keeping with Glock Parts and switching out weights etc.

    I guess I will just have to leave mine stock.
     
  8. rickys2

    rickys2

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    Good idea, in time it will get smoother
     
  9. whatsupglock

    whatsupglock

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    I'm running the Glock "-" connector with spring changes and it breaks at 2lbs. It is very crisp and the reset is rock solid! No reliability issues at all. Very smooth until it catches right before the break. With a NY1 trigger spring I'm guessing it would be a little heavier pull with the same crisp break, but I don't know because I haven't tried it.

    The trigger bar geometry is different in the 34/17 size frames vs. 19/23 size frames vs. 26/27 size frames. The same trigger job will feel a little different on a bigger or smaller frame. Interestingly enough, the "baby" Glock frames have produced the lightest smoothest triggers, at leas the one's I've worked on.
     
  10. SouthernBoyVA

    SouthernBoyVA

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    I found it pretty heavy and I don't care for it.
     
  11. David_Ely

    David_Ely GAP'r

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    I have a "-" connector and NY1 spring in my G38 and it's a much less "mushy" trigger pull than my G17 with stock connector and spring. It is a little stiffer pull but not by much.
     
  12. Shenron

    Shenron

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    I might have to try the "-" connector and the NY1 Trigger spring. Sounds like a good idea.

    What do you think the pull is?
     
  13. JBP55

    JBP55

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    6.5# to 7.0#.
     
  14. D-Rock

    D-Rock

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    No. The NY trigger springs increase the trigger pull weight because they resist the movement of the trigger bar. The NY triggers essentially function as trigger return springs, so they will make the pull heavier. A trigger bar spring actually helps pull the trigger and ease the pull weight required to move the trigger bar down the connector. The Glock comes with (I think) about a 5lb spring in this spot, and there are upraded springs available for only a couple of bucks that are around 6 lbs. They will usually drop about .4-.6 lb of pull weight under the factory trigger bar spring's pull weight. I wouldn't suggest using a reduced power striker spring with the extra power trigger bar spring though. The striker spring is doing all the work to reset the trigger bar unless you are using a NY spring, so if your trigger bar spring is stronger than the striker spring, your trigger will not reset. My trigger pull was down to just over 2.7 lbs at one point using a combination of different springs, connectors and trigger pivot pin locations. I was strictly going for a bulls eye gun setup. The problem was that for rapid shooting (like at bowling pins or steel poppers) the trigger reset was slow and soft. I ended up going with the Glockworx kit expecting a better trigger. Well, the trigger setup from them works very well. It's pull weight is somewhat greater at 3.1 lbs, but I am also using a standard power Glockworx striker spring instead of my previous reduced power striker spring. If I were to do it all over again, I would say that the Glockworx trigger bar setup is worth it. You don't need the whole kit though, just the adjustable part. It pretty much eliminates any unnecessary creep and all over-travel while keeping the safeties intact. I would throw in a 3.5# oem Glock connector and be happy as all get out. For the cheap route, I would go with the ghost rocket 3.5# connector and a extra power trigger bar spring.

    For reference, all my pull weight measurements were taken at the center of the trigger and not at the tip of the trigger. The difference can be as much as a pound on heavier trigger setups though impacts the measurement by less when concerning lighter trigger setups.


    Basically, the only way to change pull weight without changing travel is by varying spring rates. The connectors only vary the degree of mechanical leverage for either a shorter but heavier pull, or a lighter but longer pull. Glock chose to issue most models with the middle of the road 5.5 connector (which measures a little over 6 lbs at the center of the trigger before any polishing or break in.)
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2010
  15. texas 48

    texas 48 Gold Member

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    I have this process for improving the trigger on my 4 glocks .
    Polish all metal surfaces with flitz including connector, strtiker (not the inside part of the lug),trigger bar, safety plunger ( I also smooth the radius of the plunger).
    Install Properly Ghost Rocket connector.
    Install 6 lb trigger spring
    Install 6 lb striker spring.

    I have a 4 to 4.5 lb pull smooth shorter take up with very little stacking, crisp clean break,little over travel, and short reset. Works well for me.