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Glock 34 - "Temporary - Bullseye gun"

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by KiTrenen, Jan 8, 2006.

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  1. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    Could I use the G34 as a “Temporary” center fire gun for my “Indoor only” Bullseye matches. I’m going to get the gun any way for IDPA comp. It’s going to take me a wile to afford the 1911 gun I really need so…
    Why not buy the rail mount for the GLOCK 34. – If any one knows about this accessory and found it to be lacking let me know.

    I know I need a costum 1911 frame 45 for real Bullseye comp. But..... Should I just stick with my 22 and wait till I get my 1911 or dose any one think I might pick up bad habits with the Glock???

    We're talking 25 yards. I dout I'd take it to 50. I'll leave that to my 22 and up comeing 1911 frame.

    Let me know what you think.

    Thanks
     
  2. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

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    I'm not a bullseye shooter, but I thought that bullseye matches required a .45 ACP in addition to the .22 and "center-fire," so most shooters just use their .45 for the center-fire and the .45 stages.
     

  3. Joe D

    Joe D Guest

    For just a little more than the cost of a G34 you can buy a Kimber Target model. This is just the basic Kimber with adjustable sights. I shot Bullseye with the military for many years. I have two Kimber .45s that are just as accurate as the guns the Army gave me. Both will group well under 3" at 50 yds. If I needed better accuracy I could always fit a Kart barrel.
    One issue may be the beavertail grip safety. Not sure if that is legal. I don't think it would be in Service Pistol.
    On a side note Bullseye is much more demanding than IDPA or IPSC. I was never that good at it. Best I ever shot was a 2626. My average was around 2610.
     
  4. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson

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    Why don't you just get the 1911 to start with?
    Shoot it in IDPA CDP and NRA Centerfire and Big Bore. By the time you are good enough to need more accuracy than what they are putting into the nicer factory guns, you will be ready for a new barrel and tuneup.

    Joe: 2610 (X2700)average is bragging.
     
  5. Rikki

    Rikki Pathetic Loser

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    I would encourage you to first check with the indoor ranges that you plan to shoot at. Many indoor ranges do not allow jacketed bullets and that is pretty much all a Glock is happy digesting.
    Now, as to the suitability of a G-34 in BE...I encourage you to do it.
    I also think you could /should use a G21 or a G37 for the ".45" portion later on.
    Let me tell you my reasoning: A real wadcutter gun with optics is gonna run you about 1500$. A 150$"CARVER" mount and a 39$BSA will
    shoot just fine and let you participate in many different types of shooting competitions. A $1500 wadcutter gun is good for, well it's good for shooting wadcutters and that's about it.
    Will you be competitive? YES!
    After your initial classification shoots- you will be placed in a "Class" and compete against shooters with "like " scores.
    So you never make "High Master"(although it IS possible to shoot HM scores with a Glock).. Big deal...The ability to shoot within your class with WWB ammo- that's a BIG plus.
    I know that Bobby Carver shot a 290/300 with a stock '37 and WWB...
    I'd shoot the gun I got, I'd enjoy the sport, and I wouldn't reload.
    If I had it to do all over again, I'd start with a Glock and stay with it...just think...no alabi's-ever!
     
  6. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    Ok...

    How bout this question. I shoot in the uper 90's with 22. My first time ever with a 45 i shot in the low to mid 80's.

    Every one I ask - who I shoot Bullseye with seams to think I need to get a Les Baer frame and have a smith build my 45.

    That's what was freaking me out. BOOKOO BUCKS!!!

    I was introduced to IDPA by a fellow bullseye shooter who mostly shoots IDPA and they shot a GLOCK 34. I had a chance to shoot it and it was awsome compared to the CZ 75 I have now. As far as the triger reset and site radius.

    I asked about geting a "Kimber Target Model"
    Every one was giveing me a hard time like the kimber wasn't a good gun. If you're able to shoot Master most of the time and High Master on good days would a Kimber right out of the box be acuret enoph at 50 yards for me???

    That and I realy realy wanted to be able to install a Red dot on it as well. I never liked the idea of haveing the red dot mounted on the slide. All that mettal comeing back at my face that fast. but they seamed to think it would cut down on recoil or something. I'd rather have it mounted on a rail that was drilled in to the side. But I'd also want to be able to practice with Iron sites some times. So I'd want to be able to take the whole thing off if I needed.

    I don't know I guess I was being realy picky and wanting one gun to do every thing.

    From what I've herd so far about the Glock 34 I realy want to get one. One way or the other. I just had invisioned this 1,800.00$ and up 1911 frame and thought it wasn't with in my reach financialy. Every one I shoot with seams to think the only gun that will do is Les Baer.

    Personaly I was all set to go out and get a Kimber or Smith and have some trigger work done on it and be set to go.

    Sigh....
    I still think it would be funny to use a Glock 34 in doors only mind you - at 25 yards. I know it dosn't have the accuracy for 50 yards. but I thought I could get away with it at 25.

    Let me know what you think.

    John
     
  7. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    I'm already shooting high master most of the time on my rapid and timed fire events. my slow fire event is what I need to work on. I haven't had a chance to attend NRA compitions to get my full classification yet. The range I shoot indoors at is a police range. I don't think they care. Jacketed or not.

    I guess now that I think about it more. I need to worrie if shooting the glock could give me any bad habits I'd have to retrain when I get my 1911 frame. I love the trigger on the glock for IDPA but I don't know if it would work as well for - say slow fire. I could maybe make it work but... would that cause me to develop any problems with the 1911? I know I need a gun capable of sub 2" groups at 50 yards to remain competitive later on. Just wondering about the Kimbers and other 1911s now. Every one said I'd need a Les Baer. But they're so Expensive!! :(

    Open to suggestions on alternitave 1911 frames.

    John
     
  8. Joe D

    Joe D Guest

    I built several Bullseye guns years ago using Springfield's frame kit. There is nothing wrong with the Kimber slide and frame. Some folks are a little too "label sensitive". They like to say they have a Les Baer gun. I shot a $299 Charles Daly in CDP for several months just to take the wind out of their sails.
    You need to check the rules to see if the beavertail grip safety is legal. If it is just get the Kimber. If it turns out that it is not accurate enough just put a Kart barrel in it. You will still have way less than $1,000 in the gun. Better yet see if you can't pick a used one in the $500 price range.
     
  9. Rikki

    Rikki Pathetic Loser

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    I applaude you for asking and researching the subject!
    I think you may be traveling down the "CAN I FIND ONE GUN THAT WILL DO IT ALL ROAD"
    I think you may need to consider what your BE goals are(going to be).
    If you want to shoot your way onto the front page at Camp Perry and make HM-then you are gonna need a 2"@50yds gun- and more importantly- you are gonna realisticly need a progressive re-loading press and the time to use it.
    If you just want to compete- you already have the tools you need.
    A CZ 75 will do just fine indoors for BE.
    Look- if you want to just be "competitive"- you've got to define what "competitive " means to you.
    What do you want out of BE??? Answer that question and you can start deciding on guns.
    If I were doing it over again- I would shoot a GLock...With a Carver HUNTER Mount and an in-expensive reddot. That's what I do now when I shoot BE. THink of it- one gun- maybe not the BEST gun for each specific shooting disipline- but one gun to do it all with- in the end- after shooting IDPA/ISPIC/BE/GSSF- with that ONE GUN- you're gonna be pretty tuff with it...that's what it's all about for me.
    I shoot a weekly Indoor BE league- we shoot a .22NMC and then a CF NMC- then for grins we started shooting a REVOLVER NMC...If you wanna become a real gunhandler get that thumb workin and shoot some RF with a wheelegun!
     
  10. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    I would say my goals right now are to make "master" all around. I've got to bring my slow fire scores up near my rapid and timed. I regularly shoot 98's and 99's still working on that "infamous" clean target. I always pull a shot when it counts for score. I need to get my mental game in line. My ultimate goal right now is to make Hi Master.

    I admit I don't practice as much as I should. When I shoot a 2700 match I usually have to take the next day off from work because I can barely move my arm. That's kind of pathetic I guess but there you have it. I started shooting IDPA for fun and really wanted to get the Glock 34 for that aspect of my shooting. It's got accuracy and with a little work can have a great trigger compared to CZ 75 I have now.

    My CZ 75 is a compact model with those awful fixed sites. The trigger is more then 5 pounds and has a very awkward travel and reset. I think with a little trigger work and some better sites I'd be happier with my CZ. Right now I'm just not sure. I don't think I'd have a prayer shooting my CZ as a bullseye gun. I can’t even get it to group under 12" at 25 yards were as my 22 groups about an inch at that distance.

    I know I would really like to get a Glock.... They are so reliable and fun to shoot. I also know I LOVE shooting BULLSEYE. I feel great after every match. It takes so much concentration that it helps to block out every thing else that's bothering me. When I'm shooting bullseye I can usually leave behind my troubles and stresses and feel relaxed and a lot more energetic afterward. It's just me and the sights/target - I usually shoot red dot so I sort of get tunnel vision and see just the target framed by the scope and dot.

    I know I need a good 1911 frame that shoots 45 to compete in bullseye seriously. 45 aren’t cheap to shoot so I know I'll have to reload sooner or later. Right now I'm mainly shooting 22 so it's not a problem yet. My first time ever picking up the 45 I shot an aggregate of 245. I saw that and thought there was some potential with my own 45 and practice. I think if I make the right choice and get a good 1911 to start with I'll be ok. I'm just a little lost right now as to what brand to go with. If money was no object I guess it would be easier.

    At the minimum I need to make sure that what ever I get has a good frame a gun smith could seriously tune up for me later if needed. I've heard stories about jamming and malfunction from kimbers. Though they looked like great guns to me. I really wanted to get a "Kimber Target Model” when I first started looking for my 1911. I picked one up at the store and dry fired it and liked the trigger. But when I told the other bullseye shooters a lot of them told me not too get it.

    Is it really just people being picky about brands? Would I be ok with a Kimber to start out with? I just want some thing that's at least 2” to3" and I don't want alibys. I'm not asking for much right??? :) I hate alibys.

    Well I hope I haven't talked your ears off.
    Thanks again for all your advice and input it really helps.

    John
     
  11. Rikki

    Rikki Pathetic Loser

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    You said...
    My ultimate goal right now is to make Hi Master.

    OK, that's laudible, and DOable.
    You will need to dryfire 2 or 3 times a day and shoot all that you possibly can.

    I don't know of a Hi-Master that STARTED shooting BE with the same guns he made Hi-Master with...so what you start with probably isn't going to be as important as what you finish with.

    I would not recomend a 45 with the redot ON the slide. I suggest one of the wrap around mounts that mount to the frame.

    I would frequent BE shoots, and buy a used gun from a competitor- buy a gun that you have seen shoot reliably.

    If I were going to buy a new 45, I would buy a Mil-spec hardball gun, and I would shoot factory hardball.

    Army Marksmanship units generally require their team shooters to use iron sights for 2 years before going to 'dots.

    My goal was to make the "President's Hundred" at Camp Perry. You had to use a Mil-Spec .45(back then, now it's any issued pistol-so a '92 Beretta is OK) I learned to shoot iron sights/hardball..when I went to .22/CF/.45 with racy guns it was a snap.

    I'd start gettin' after it if I were you-GOOD LUCK!
     
  12. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    That was one other issue I was running in to. I don't want to mount a red dot on the slide of my 45 either. Every one I shoot with however has them mounted on the slide. It bothers me haveing something like that mounted on the slide. I'd rather have it mounted just a little bit higher on a frame mounted rail system. Prefrably one that I can take off with in 10 minuts or so.

    Would I be wrong in getting a 800 or 900 dollar 1911. A Kimber Target or S&W or something similer? As long as I can shoot groups of at least 3" I'd be happy for now. I can save up for a 1.5" gun later as I get better. I know theres going to be a learning curve with the 1911.

    Thanks for your help.

    John
     
  13. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    Does drilling a frame for a Side mount rail caust a lot?

    Would this be something I only whant a smith that knows bullseye to do? or would any good gun smith be fine?

    I want to be able to take the rail mount off the frame when I'm not useing it - it dosn't have to come off in like 10 seconds either. It doesn't have to go back on zeroed in. I'm willing to rezero it every time I take it off. I'd prefer a system I didn't have to rezero. But I whant a rail mount so I'll take what I can get.

    Thanks again for any advice.

    John
     
  14. Rikki

    Rikki Pathetic Loser

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    You don't want a dot mounted ON the slide.
    I know, I know, some people make them work- but that extra 5 oz(or so) on the slide can make "reliablity" a little more questionable.
    The most common "wraparound" scope mounts that screw into the frame are NOT easily removed and reinstalled...lissen...you get a 'dot hummin' on a 1911 .45- I mean really dead nuts on- and the LAST thing you will want to do is take it off!
    I do not recomend a 8-900 dollar Kimber or Springfield or S&W...
    You are NOT buying a BE gun if you go that route. They are NOT WADCUTTER guns, and they are NOT HARDBALL guns.
    I was at our local morning BE league this morning, and this poor guy is struggling with a Kimber-900 bucks and it won't cycle 3.8 grs of BE and a 185 gr swc...that's like the "old faithful load"...so he's borrowing 3.7 gr loads, then he is trying a 9# spring instead of the 10#...then they say...
    well that feeding ramp isn't made for swc(???!!!) So this guy is screwed...Lost a week's shooting, and don't know which direction to go.
    If you want a ez-on/off scope mount- I'd look at the 1911's that sport a tacticle rail, and a mount that will hook up there.
    But- a Glock G-37 with a carver hunter model mount will work(I speak from experience)...I still strongly suggest buying a gun from a guy that is getting OUT of the game- a gun you can try out and a gun that you have seen work.
     
  15. kyjack45

    kyjack45

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    You might be better off with a Beretta 92F 9mm so you can use it for the Service Pistol Match. 9mm is fine for the Centerfire match as well. You could use a stock gun to start out and find a gunsmith who is experienced in accurizing Berettas later.
    Richard
    Schennberg.com
     
  16. KiTrenen

    KiTrenen

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    I want my red dot mounted on the Frame. DEFENETLY.
    I don't want any added weight on the slide.

    If you buy a 45 Advertised as a "Wad Cutter" is there a good chance it would be servicable? I was looking at maybe "Rock River Arms" or "Smith & Wesson"

    Something that can shoot under 3" and feed semi wad cutter ammo in 45 is a must.

    Would a "Tactical Rail & Pin" mounted rail system be reliable for bullseye?

    This was allways my big idea. Get a quality 45 1911 frame with a tactical rail on the front. and find some one who makes a detachable scope mount for the flashlight rail.

    If any one has any sugestions.

    Thanks

    John[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]