Glock 10mm's

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by dale roper, Sep 1, 2007.

  1. dale roper

    dale roper

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    I am asking a question on behalf of a friend of Mine that works at the pistol parlour here in Arizona. He wanted Me to see if anyone has experienced, either first hand or second, frame damage or any other damage to the glock 20 or 29 from a steady diet of the higher powered 10mm rds. I told him that, although I have the 2 guns, they have only digested factory loads Ie... American Eagle. My natural instinct would be to think that the glock 10mm's would be some of the most stout weapons at handling the higher output 10mm rds. Thank You for all of Your help!
     
  2. nickE10mm

    nickE10mm F.S.F.O.S.

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    Never seen or heard of any types of damage. I wouldn't expect to either, since the Glock was engineered for the 10mm. TOUCH gun.
     

  3. SAWMAN

    SAWMAN

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    Have never herd tell of damage done to a Glock 10mm from using tens of, or thousands of, rounds of SAAMI spec ammo. NOTE: A FUBAR load will trash any weapon.

    As stated,the Glock 20 and 29 were designed for the 10mm round. This was not the case for the 1911's. In those cases,the 10mm chambering was a after thought.

    Do you thing that JMB would have approved? Not me.
     
  4. Glock38Fan

    Glock38Fan Guest

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    McNett's G20 has a huge amount of rounds through and is still going from what I understand.
     
  5. scwine

    scwine ^%(#@$^!!!!!!!

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    Is it stock? Just wondering, I just got a G20 and some DT ammo, do I need to upgrade on the spring or not?? Sorry to HiJack(if I did)...
     
  6. Glock38Fan

    Glock38Fan Guest

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    I can't remember how many rounds were put through it with the stock spring but it was a lot. He then changed to an aftermarket spring. The original didn't break or anything if I remember correctly. He just prefers a stiffer spring.

    I myself use DT with a stock spring in my G20. Works just fine, no signs of weakness at all.
     
  7. dale roper

    dale roper

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    Is the use of a stiffer spring an attempt to create a sort of buffer to keep the slide from shock loading with high powered ammo?
     
  8. nickE10mm

    nickE10mm F.S.F.O.S.

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    Nope... basically its to prevent slide battering and, for when its necessary, slightly modify recoil / ejection dynamics when troubleshooting feeding issues.

    IMHO its far more important with 1911's and other makes and models than it is for Glocks to match the recoil spring weight to the particular load being used. glocks are almost impossible to "batter" and work reliably when in stock configurations.

    Anyways, I'm rambling... :)
     
  9. AndABeer

    AndABeer Proud pappy

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    No free lunch.

    If a stiffer recoil spring is used, it will just slam the slide into battery harder and also increase wear in that direction.
     
  10. SAWMAN

    SAWMAN

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    .....plus,If I were to set up a Glock to shoot ONLY the stoutest of loads i would probably replace the spring. But even in a G20 shooting the heavy loaded DT stuff for hunting and the light weight Blazer for practice,I don't feel that a spring change is mandentory for safe operation or to save undue wear and tear on your Glock.

    Glock OEM spring/guide rod setups are cheap. Heck,you could change them out every 500-1000rds if it makes the owner feel better.

    I have several and I slip them in when at the range while practicing with the Blazer stuff. This is what makes the Glock system so great. I can change from the OEM bbl and spring to my 6" bbl and 21# spring in 30 seconds or less.
     
  11. Boogieman

    Boogieman

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    This is a bit off topic but spring weight was discussed...

    This is my experience and my experience only. I really do not want to start any sort of war. If your experience differs..well..then great. Let's discuss it. That's what makes the world go round but I'm really not interested in being called names.

    With my Glocks, I don't so much adjust spring weight for the load but for what the load does (I know, it doesn't make much sense...I'll explain).

    Glocks are very different that 1911's. It's a whole different animal. The two should never really be compared in any way, shape or form but I guess it's only natural. "Long live the King, the King is dead", and all that.

    With a 1911 the metal slide is slamming into a metal frame. There is a sudden stop during recoil and as the slid slams foreword. Metal just doesn't flex as well as polymer. Too light of a recoil spring can cause battering. Nobody wants a cracked frame/slide on their mega-buck JMB masterpiece. Too heavy of a recoil spring can batter the locking lugs. New barrels are expensive. One must obtain a balance for a particular load.

    As stated, Glocks are a different animal. Has anyone ever seen a battered frame on a Glock? Me neither. It simply isn't an issue. Polymer gives a bit to recoil and "negative recoil". Since battering is simply not an issue the recoil spring can be calibrated to optimize perform ace rather that to facilitate longevity. When I fire a Glock, I want the gun to recoil and then return to point of aim without me having to make adjustments. I personally have found that in my hands most Glocks are OVER SPRUNG.

    When firing my Glocks I decide if the gun is coming back on target after firing. If not I'll start clipping 1/2 coils off of the recoil spring until it does. Some times I'll move down to a lighter ISMI spring. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Heck, half the fun is the journey and besides, Glock factory recoil assemblies are cheap. So what if I ruin a few.

    On my G20's I clip off 1 coil...it works for me but your mileage may vary.
     
  12. VN350X10

    VN350X10

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    Due to a misprint in a loading manual (I've disscussed this at length a few times), My oldest G20 saw several rounds approaching 65,000-70,000 psi. Locked up it recoiled & returned so hard it had to be opened with a dead blow mallet.
    Only damage-----My EGO!(my 1st reloading KB!)
    Gun still runs fine & that incident happened about 20,000 rounds ago.
    Remember, when the G20 came out, the only factory ammo avaliable was Norma ! That was hot ammo in anybody's book.

    uncle albert:thumbsup:
     
  13. kn38ms

    kn38ms Glockaholic

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    My G29 was purchased new in 05'.
    I purposely run DT only down the pipe.
    Never shot Rem UMC or Fed eagle. Just DT ammo.
    5K+ pounds of 135gr and 180gr with approx 200rds of 200gr DT.
    Wolf 22# spring.
    The only damage has been a cracked (in two pieces)locking block
    and a cracked locking block pin.
    Slide and receiver still in perfect condition.
    This happened 2 months ago. I pitched the parts so no pic.
    I did not notice it until I got home to clean.
    Apparently the G29 was still firing with the cracked block/ pin.
    Just remember to inspect it thoroughly after every range session.
    And yes I will continue to feed her DT :supergrin:
     
  14. nickE10mm

    nickE10mm F.S.F.O.S.

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    Wow.... did you, by chance, let Mike know about that damage to give him a heads up on the LOT#'s you fired? He might like to know about your issues....
     
  15. dale roper

    dale roper

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    I really appreciate the wealth of information I received in this post! Glock talk proves what a jewel it is time and time again. Thanks again and I hope more info keeps coming in; it's very interesting!!!
     
  16. kn38ms

    kn38ms Glockaholic

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    I did call Gaston and they said no problem send the gun in.
    Why pay $30 in shipping when I can spend 15 bucks on parts and still have my G29.