Ghost 3.5# connector, HELP

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Tingle, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. Tingle

    Tingle

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    I've had this connector in for about 4 years and been extremely happy with the trigger- until today. Now the trigger bar is being forced outboard and the connector is being forced outboard as the trigger bar goes past the connector without releasing the firing pin.

    Is this common with 3.5# connectors?
     
  2. DannyR

    DannyR Moderator Millennium Member

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    It is not common with factory "-" connectors. The one in my 1996 G19 has 68,000+ rounds on it.
     

  3. Tingle

    Tingle

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    Thanks I guess I'll look for a factory 3.5# connector.
     
  4. huntingbuddy

    huntingbuddy

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    Glock will not sell you a factory 3.5 # connector, the lightest you can get from Glock is 4.5#, if I am not mistaken.
     
  5. DannyR

    DannyR Moderator Millennium Member

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    The factory 3.5# connector and 4.5# connector are the very same part. The 3.5 provided trigger pull of 4.5#, so it is now referred to as a 4.5# or "-" connector. True, Glock will not sell them, not even to an armorer. Best bet for one is www.glockmeister.com
     
  6. mboylan

    mboylan

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    LWD or Glock. The LWD has a crisper break and a better finish than the Glock. The fitted Ghost connector seems to have the most problems. Could be user error, poor fitting?
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2010
  7. Butch

    Butch RetiredDinosaur CLM Millennium Member

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    I'm trying to figure out just what's happening with your connector. In your description you used the term 'outboard' twice, and I'm thinking you meant 'inboard' for one of them maybe?

    The connector is supposed to have an outboard bend to it, without it the gun won't fire.
    [​IMG]


    Is the rear edge of the trigger bar being pushed past the lip of the connector (resulting in the connector being pushed *inward*) and the trigger bar not being cammed downward to release the firing pin lug?

    You didn't bend, or otherwise 'straighten' the connector did you?
     
  8. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    This can happen with any connector and is usually the result of the connector being bent too far inward. You can probably fix this in 5 minutes if you follow the instructions half way down the page at http://www.ghostinc.com/category/istallationinstructions/ (look for picture labeled "Measuring the bend angle").
     
  9. Tingle

    Tingle

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    I've fired about 3-4 thousand rounds through this G26 without problem. This has just started during a dry fire session. If I roll through the trigger it fires 8 out of 10 times but if I slow squeeze I can see past the backplate and watch the connector move to the left and the trigger bar slide past it.
     
  10. robin303

    robin303 Helicopter Nut

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    Why don't you just replace the part.
     
  11. Butch

    Butch RetiredDinosaur CLM Millennium Member

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    Has any parts polishing been done?
     
  12. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    So you got away with an overbent connector for 3-4 thousand rounds, but with the polishing that has taken place over that time, it is no longer working. Just take a look at the bend angle. If you buy a new one, you should check the angle anyway, so that doesn't make for any less work.
     
  13. Tingle

    Tingle

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    Butch. you are correct I meant inboard on the connector. I stripped the pistol and the space between the connector and housing wasn't as distinctive as in your picture but was pretty close to the ghost source suggested by bentbiker- (0 clearance instead of .003"..)

    However, when comparing it to the original connector there was a noticeable twist towards the top. I used a couple of pairs of needle nose pliers to twist it straight and it appears to work fine now (but not as smoothly). Anyway I'll have a replacement in before I fire it again.

    Is the .003" clearance from the Ghost website good for any brand?.

    Thanks to all
     
  14. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    If you gripped it in places where the trigger bar and connector touch, you should polish those areas. Your 4000 rounds had given you nicely polished surfaces. Now they are meeting in different ways at best and may have scratches from the pliers unless you used a rag or cardboard to protect the surfaces. You could gently polish the areas recommended in the 25 cent trigger job. As for all connectors meeting the same clearance as the Ghost, the angle should be the same for all, but some have cutouts, etc and I don't know whether that technique would always work, but I'm betting it would. Nobody but Ghost offers any guidance as far as I know.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2010
  15. Butch

    Butch RetiredDinosaur CLM Millennium Member

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    Now, so it doesn't happen again......we should try to figure
    out how it got 'twisted'.

    How do you remove the connector from the mechanical housing? And how often do you remove it?


    .
     
  16. SouthernBoyVA

    SouthernBoyVA

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    I have tested five connectors in my primary carry Glock (23) (stock OEM 5#, Scherer 3.5#, Ghost 3.4#, LWD 3.5#, and Glock 3.53), and have found the Glock 3.5 connector to be the best overall (part #00135). I have three of these connectors in three of my Glocks, purchased through www.glockparts.com.
     
  17. Tingle

    Tingle

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    Push out the rear pin; lift the rear housing; twist housing anti-clockwise; left side of trigger bar releases from housing slot; slide knife between housing and connector with twisting force at bottom of connector.

    I probably removed it 2 or 3 times when installing it originally and a couple of times yesterday.
     
  18. JBP55

    JBP55

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    Your G23 trigger pull is much lower than the average Glock if all you changed in it was the connector.
     
  19. SouthernBoyVA

    SouthernBoyVA

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    Not really. I have two G23's and they came with different trigger weights from the factory. The one I carry most always came with a 5# trigger, the extended slide stop, and night sights. When I had the Ghost 3.5 connector on this gun, a neighbor and I measured the trigger pull at break to be 5.1 pounds. We all know that the stated trigger weights on Glocks do not necessarily equate to actual breaking weight. What the lighter connector did do for me, and the main reason I installed one, was to improve my accuracy.

    Now at one time I also had the 4# Wolf striker spring along with the Ghost 3.5 connector and I can assure you that that combination did make for a significantly lighter trigger, though I didn't weigh it. I re-installed the factory OEM striker spring and like that setup with my Glock 3.5 connector the best.
     
  20. Noponer

    Noponer

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    I recently bought 2 Ghost 3.5# connectors from Brownell's, but returned them for a refund (good ole Brownell's!). I have always used factory 3.5# connectors, but wanted a couple extra.

    I noticed the trigger reset was quicker than the factory connectors, so I checked the thickness with my calipers... same - or really close. Then I noticed that the "cam" or "lip" where the trigger bar rides was rounded on the bottom. That allowed the bar to drop back under the cam sooner. Quicker reset - nice.

    Trouble is, it does so by letting the bar drop downward a little... fine if you have plenty of overlap between the bar's crucifix & the firing pin's tang... but if marginal, the rounded edge can cause an accidential discharge when the trigger is being moved forward for reset. I have had it happen back when I did not know that the connector & trigger bar edges need to remain square... that's one reason too much polishing can be bad, even on factory parts.

    That rounded edge made the bearing surface for the trigger bar to be narrower. Also, the cam (lip) measured less than the factory connectors (not as wide). Maybe the Ghost connectors I received were not typical. However, if the OP's were made like those I received - & has worn a bit, that might explain why the bar will not stay under it... too narrow, rounded & now maybe sloped up & out from wear.