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If you have carpel tunnel I would get the 650. MUCH easier to push to prime then the LnL. Even better would be the 1050 that has no push to prime at all and is very smooth and easy to use. I fear the LnL would be too hard on your damaged parts.
I have the 550B, so am I understanding this correctly, the 650 takes less pressure to operate, or is that just compared to the LnL?

Also, how does the 1050 feed the primer differently, without pushing? Perhaps I can find a video that shows how it works.

Steve
 
The 550 and 650 use the exact same handle I am betting that it is the same. I haven't used a 550 in a while but I don't remember the 650 being easier than the 550 was. Maybe someone who has both will answer. But the LNL takes a lot more pressure than the 650.
 
For the record. Hornady is even on record that their press takes more pressure to push to prime then a Dillon. They say about 75lbs IIRC. It's a lot.
:shocked: I have never even for once thougth that priming with a LnL was hard, this is news to me. Now it may be harder than a Dillon, but hard???? eat some protein and pick up some iron :rofl: just picking don't get mad,

Not intended for individual who started the thread, just surprised to hear that about the LnL.
 
:shocked: I have never even for once thougth that priming with a LnL was hard, this is news to me. Now it may be harder than a Dillon, but hard???? eat some protein and pick up some iron :rofl: just picking don't get mad,

Not intended for individual who started the thread, just surprised to hear that about the LnL.
It's the poor desig of the primer delivery, not how much force you apply. My buddy machined a slighlty longer priming punch to get his to seat properly. The Dillon's don't suffer from this. Plus the 650's rotary delivery system is far superior to the LNL. I have maybe 10K rounds thru my 650 now, It's never hicupped once priming. That alone is worth the $100 higher price over a LNL:supergrin:
Also, how does the 1050 feed the primer differently, without pushing? Perhaps I can find a video that shows how it works.
I don't have one, but my understanding is the 1050 rpimes on the downstroke in a separate stn. So priming is more effortless.
 
Not an expert on progressive presses. I guess I am lucky I have about 5k through my LnL thus far no issue yet and primers seat good. Prior to using LnL I hand primed everything so I am picky. Had I read all this I would have continued to hand prime. Glad I didn't :supergrin:
 
Bullseye and Unique are where I was concentrating. I have loaded with them before but it seems to me Unique used to be called something else. It might be my memory that is at fault though. lol

I will be doing mostly range rounds, FMJ, SWC and the like so I will probably stick with Bullseye or Unique as I can find it. When I get to my .223 and 308 I will have other parts to buy for the press so I will look at powders for those before I take that step.

BrianEnos is who I will go through to get this. Shipping is 25 bucks on Dillons site and yes, every little bit helps.
and even though you are ordering it from Brian, it will be shipped from Dillon themselves, you just wont get a tracking number emailed to you. Also you will get the Dillon Blue Press magazine every month which is also good reading
 
I have the 550B, so am I understanding this correctly, the 650 takes less pressure to operate, or is that just compared to the LnL?

Also, how does the 1050 feed the primer differently, without pushing? Perhaps I can find a video that shows how it works.

Steve
There is a slide under the primer magazine that moves a primer under the case.

The primer is ready and waiting for the down handle stroke where it is inserted into the case.

It's a completely different feeling when you prime on the downstroke. In fact, you really don't even know you are priming.

Richard
 
There is a slide under the primer magazine that moves a primer under the case.

The primer is ready and waiting for the down handle stroke where it is inserted into the case.

It's a completely different feeling when you prime on the downstroke. In fact, you really don't even know you are priming.

Richard
Thanks Richard!

Maybe a second Dillon is in order, like a 650!

Now I just have to figure out how I can justify such a purchase. :wow:


Steve
 
Thanks Richard!

Maybe a second Dillon is in order, like a 650!

Now I just have to figure out how I can justify such a purchase. :wow:


Steve
Just to be clear.. the 1050 primes on the down stroke... the 650 primes on the upstroke (just like your 550)..

IGF
 
Discussion starter · #55 · (Edited)
I guess that would help. lol

Ok, here goes:

Dillon XL 650 - Reloading machine
Dillon Carbide Pistol Dies (Three-Die Sets) --> .38/.357
3 added powder dies
3 additional tool heads
Dillon Case Lube
Dillon Powder Check
Dillon Roller Handle (Aluminum)
Dillon's XL 650 Toolholders XL 650 w/Wrench Set
Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale
Primer Pickup Tubes, 2 Small, 2 Large
Speer Reloading Manual, Rifle & Pistol 14th edition
Walnut Hull Polishing Media
Caliber Conversion Kit to be Included: .38/.357 Magnum
XL 650 Caliber Conversion Kit --> 9mm/.38 Super
XL 650 Caliber Conversion Kit --> .40 S&W
XL 650 Caliber Conversion Kit --> .45 ACP
XL 650 Casefeeder
Casefeeder Plate Small Pistol
Casefeeder Size: Large Pistol Plate
RCBS Carbide 3-die sets in 40/45/9mm
Digital Calipers
Bullet puller hammer
Lyman 49th reloading manual
Lyman twin tumbler
Lyman media separator
Primer tray
2lbs of Universal
2lbs of WSF
1000 rds of 9mm brass (once fired)
1000 Berry 124gr FMJ round nose
5k CCI #500 SP Primers

I know I will likely have to add to it but this is the most expensive part and I needed to get it out of the way. I have a 5 week wait so I will be building a bench in my office in the meantime.

Did I miss anything obvious?
 
Any suggestions?
It looks like you only ordered 1 toolhead (the one that comes w/ the press)... if you're loading for 4 calibers.. you'll probably want to get 3 additional toolheads and 3 powder dies... or you're going to be constantly removing/resetting your dies.



IGF
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I was under the impression I would just be removing the dies themselves and that my settings would be saved by the lock collar an the die? If that is not the case then I will add that to my list of stuff to get.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Nevermind. I see what you mean. Consider them ordered. That will make caliber changes easy and I won't have to re-calibrate as long as I verify and use the same load data which I probably will once I find a good balance.

I will be aiming for a standard target load mostly. I am not out to blaze a path and set the range on fire. Not yet anyway lol.
 
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