Glock Talk banner
21 - 40 of 207 Posts
I am thinking about adding this to my 650 it looks to be the only way to add a bullet feeder and retain the powder check as well as seat and crimp separately.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBw0Vhcrl4Y"]GSI How The GSI Rotary Feeder Works - YouTube[/ame]
 
I am thinking about adding this to my 650 it looks to be the only way to add a bullet feeder and retain the powder check as well as seat and crimp separately.
I am a big fan of Dillon dies with seating and crimping on separate dies but I have lee dies and somehow managed to seat and crimp in one station for years before I found Dillon.

Also I would ask if the powder check die has flagged you while reloading on a 650?
 
Also I would ask if the powder check die has flagged you while reloading on a 650?
No, and AFAIK, I have never messed up a powder charge on the 650. Then again, I'm not using stick powders.

The plunger on the check die sometimes hangs up (particularly on .223) and I get some false positive alarms.

If the question is: Could I do without the powder check die, sure. I would have to look in the cases, I suppose, but I could lose it.

The thing is, I like having it there because I find it difficult to look into .223 cases and I have little interest in looking into any of the others.

Richard
 
Unless you are using pistol powders for the 223 you can not double charge. The only thing it would check was a missed charge. Something that is very hard to do with a 650.

I personally think that most over under charges in fully progressive machines are caused by the operator pulling a case to check the powder and then putting the vase back.

To be clear I am assuming you are using powders that are known to work well in a progressive machine to start with.
 
I would not worry about a powder check in pistol. With a bullet feeder on a 650 your only job is to seat the primer and check for powder. Not exactly challenging. Stay awake and look in every case.
 
Unless you are using pistol powders for the 223 you can not double charge. The only thing it would check was a missed charge. Something that is very hard to do with a 650.

I personally think that most over under charges in fully progressive machines are caused by the operator pulling a case to check the powder and then putting the vase back.

To be clear I am assuming you are using powders that are known to work well in a progressive machine to start with.
I agree completely. For the most part, the alarm isn't necessary. But it's only there for the 1 in 10,000 loads where something really does go wrong.

The only problem I have ever had with powder bridging the funnel is with IMR 4064 (I believe) when I was dumping the scale pan into the funnel. Around the 3rd case, the funnel overflowed! That was kind of a surprise... I should have been watching more carefully. Lesson learned (without pain, BTW).

I have changed over to VV N540 for .308 and the results are quite impressive.

Richard
 
I actually use Lee dies and seat and crimp in one station for .45acp which is the only caliber that I load enough of to justify a bullet feeder and don't use the powder check because I can look into the (short fat) case through the two empty holes in the toolhead. But I would not feel comfortable using a bullet feeder without it. The gsi just looked like a cool solution but without seeing it work in person I would have to load a lot more to justify the expense.
 
I have been thinking about a bullet feeder for a long time. In my imagination, I have been considering some kind of side feed mechanism and the GSI is a lot nicer than that figment of my imagination.

The GSI is kind of pricey but I could see using one on my 1050 for loading .223 (if I every convert it away from .45 ACP). I could also see one on my 650 for .45 and 9mm.

Just not today...

The unit has been around for quite a while, I'm sure any negative issues have been addressed. I would like to find a CURRENT review...

The KISS feeder, for example, doesn't work with lead bullets. That's a bummer because the only .45 I load is lead. Well, I load a little FMJ but the vast majority is 200 gr LSWC. A FMJ only feeder is worthless to me. Well, I suppose it would work for the .223. That's something, I guess.

Richard
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
The entire setup is going to set me back about $1800 including the powder check die so, its not that big of a deal expense wise. and I do plan on loading .223 and .308 in the future.

I do still intend to visually inspect all my cases. I just want the check as extra insurance. I don't want to destroy or damage my guns or myself.

Thanks for all the input. I am still a week from puling the trigger (waiting on tax return) but then it's on. I will keep checking back until then. I am going to watch some videos and read some articles to refresh myself on reloading since it has been awhile for me. I know the basics but powders have changed a bit since I loaded last.
 
The entire setup is going to set me back about $1800 including the powder check die so, its not that big of a deal expense wise. and I do plan on loading .223 and .308 in the future.
When I bought my fully loaded 650 (less the roller handle but including the strong mounts, bullet tray {and you really want the elevated bullet tray} etc), it came to almost exactly $1000. For you, the roller handle is probably the way to go. It would be for me too but I artificially drew a line in the sand. The line will eventually be crossed!

You can save the shipping (probably around $35) if you order Dillon products through BrianEnos.com. I did that for the 650. Every little bit helps.

I am going to watch some videos and read some articles to refresh myself on reloading since it has been awhile for me. I know the basics but powders have changed a bit since I loaded last.
Heck, Bullseye and Unique have been around for about 100 years (a little over, I believe). Some things don't change (much).

Rifle powders, well, there are some botique powders on the market. It isn't just IMR 3031 or 4064 for .308 any more. Not that those are bad powders, they are excellent. But, for my loads the Vihtavuori N540 is working better (at the moment). Then too, I like Reloder 15 for .223 (bolt action) and Reloder 22 for 6.5x284 Norma. TAC or Varget for AR-15 .223 seems to work pretty well.

Richard
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Bullseye and Unique are where I was concentrating. I have loaded with them before but it seems to me Unique used to be called something else. It might be my memory that is at fault though. lol

I will be doing mostly range rounds, FMJ, SWC and the like so I will probably stick with Bullseye or Unique as I can find it. When I get to my .223 and 308 I will have other parts to buy for the press so I will look at powders for those before I take that step.

BrianEnos is who I will go through to get this. Shipping is 25 bucks on Dillons site and yes, every little bit helps.
 
Bullseye and Unique are where I was concentrating. I have loaded with them before but it seems to me Unique used to be called something else. It might be my memory that is at fault though. lol

I will be doing mostly range rounds, FMJ, SWC and the like so I will probably stick with Bullseye or Unique as I can find it. When I get to my .223 and 308 I will have other parts to buy for the press so I will look at powders for those before I take that step.

BrianEnos is who I will go through to get this. Shipping is 25 bucks on Dillons site and yes, every little bit helps.
And that's where some folks around here have a few comments. Not so much in your case because you have been around this stuff. But it is often recommended to stay away from fast powders like Bullseye. At least in the beginning.

It has to do with the fact that a full charge of Bullseye won't half fill a case and a double charge won't overflow a case.

I guess I should have known about that when I started using 700-X right out of the gate. It's even faster than Bullseye or Titegroup! Oh well, it was a long time ago and we didn't have an Internet group.

I have been using TAC for AR-15 ammo. I don't know if it is the most accurate powder because the AR has a highly variable 8# trigger pull. There is nothing consistent about that gun. I have some Varget that is destined for that gun.

Now, for .223 bolt action, I have been using Reloder 15 and my grandson is shooting about 1-1/2" groups at 300 yards with a Savage Long Range Precision Varmint.

For .308 bolt action, I have had great success with IMR4064 for my Steyr SSG - 1/2" group at 200 meters. For my new Rem 700, I think VV N540 works better. On a good day, 3/8" group at 100 yards. Still need to try 300 yards.

I don't load for my M1A. So far, I have just used NATO surplus.

Richard
 
Nothing against the powders you are considering, but another worth looking at is 231.
Also a great source for bullets is Missouri Bullet Company. If you need brass check out Starline Brass.
 
Nothing against the powders you are considering, but another worth looking at is 231.
Yes it is! There are a lot of good powders out there. Somebody must be buying them or they would have been discontinued long ago.

Richard
 
I have been thinking about a bullet feeder for a long time. In my imagination, I have been considering some kind of side feed mechanism and the GSI is a lot nicer than that figment of my imagination.

The GSI is kind of pricey but I could see using one on my 1050 for loading .223 (if I every convert it away from .45 ACP). I could also see one on my 650 for .45 and 9mm.

Just not today...

The unit has been around for quite a while, I'm sure any negative issues have been addressed. I would like to find a CURRENT review...

The KISS feeder, for example, doesn't work with lead bullets. That's a bummer because the only .45 I load is lead. Well, I load a little FMJ but the vast majority is 200 gr LSWC. A FMJ only feeder is worthless to me. Well, I suppose it would work for the .223. That's something, I guess.

Richard
It is a shame that jack doesn't write here anymore, But I seem to remember that he bought a hornady bullet feeder and got it to work with lead bullets. I believe he honed out the die to for the bigger lead bullet.
 
Buy a decent caliper - dial or digital, as opposed to the China Freight POS. Yer fixin to hemorrhage a butt load of money, why get the cheapest caliper possible? I work aviation, and we have to turn in certain tools every 6 months for calibration. 95% of those Chinese POS "precision" tools and instruments don't pass calibration. Also, don't forget, the Chinese are commies. Don't feed yer enemies.
 
It is a shame that jack doesn't write here anymore, But I seem to remember that he bought a hornady bullet feeder and got it to work with lead bullets. I believe he honed out the die to for the bigger lead bullet.
It's not so much the size of the bullet but the wax based lube. After a few 100, things get sticky. Moly coated lead yes, plated & jacketed yes, conventional lead, it's going to cause issues.
 
21 - 40 of 207 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top