Gen4 Reassembly Question

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by FChen17213, Mar 6, 2010.

  1. FChen17213

    FChen17213

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    This is something interesting I've noticed about the Gen4 Glock. When you reassemble the pistol, sometimes the slide will not go on the frame and something will bind. At first I thought maybe it was the recoil assembly. Well, after tinkering with it for awhile I messed around with the connector. I noticed that if you move the bar forward and recock the frame, the slide assembly goes on easily. Sometimes if you don't, it'll bind. That's not a problem, but just weird to me. I own 8 Gen3 Glocks and none of them have done this to me before. Has anyone else had this happen before? When the slide binds, it's right at the threshold of going back on the slide where the takedown bar is just halfway down.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2010
  2. nndavec

    nndavec

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    For some reason, Glock opted to use the Glock 37 trigger bar in the Gen4 guns. I have noticed that the firing pin must be in the forward position for the slide to be installed.

    Or the Gen 3 trigger bars work just fine.
     

  3. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    A previous poster reported a reassembly problem where that was solved by depressing the slide lock purportedly to allow for the barrel lug to pass. He subsequently reported that the problem went away after numerous reassemblies. Could either of your assembly problems be resolved by depressing the the slide lock as is normally accomplished by the ramp on the barrel lug?

    nndavec, what exactly do you mean by the firing pin needing to be in the forward position during assembly. Do you mean the trigger bar and cruciform?
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2010
  4. nndavec

    nndavec

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    No, the firing pin in the slide had to be in the fired (forward)position.

    nndavec, what exactly do you mean by the firing pin needing to be in the forward position during assembly. Do you mean the trigger bar and cruciform?[/QUOTE]
     
  5. Rusty Shackleford

    Rusty Shackleford mmhmm

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    I noticed this immediately when I got mine home and worried about it. Sometimes it still happens, sometimes it doesn't.

    With the trigger bar in the "fired" position there is absolutely no reason that the position of the firing pin matters. (if the trigger bar interfered with the firing pin in this position, it wouldn't fire.)

    I just reassembled the pistol with the sear both down and up, and the firing pin both forward and rear. No binding in any of the 4 attempts, aside from the usual deflection of the connector and trigger bar.

    I do know exactly what you're referring to though.. I just can't seem to MAKE it happen. It will just happen the next time I'm not expecting or wanting it to.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2010
  6. njl

    njl Crusty Member

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    Glad to see I'm not the only one. I brought home a Gen4 G17 last night, and after field stripping it and comparing it to my early Gen3 G17, looking at all the differences, I couldn't get it back together. The slide would go just about all the way on, but not quite. I'd back it all the way off, and try again. After repeating this several times, it finally went together.

    I've owned Glocks for 10+ years, fully disassembled/reassembled them and thought I was going to have to do an embarrassing "I field stripped it and can't get it back together" post.

    It was late last night when I got the chance to start looking at it. I'll play with it some more and see if I can figure out a way to reassemble that works every time.

    BTW...with the Gen4s, have people noticed that the recoil assembly likes to come off the barrel (usually off to one side or the other) during field stripping? I noticed this with a Gen4 G22 I was playing with in the store, and on my 17 last night.

    I'm not sure what to think of the new recoil assembly. I think I read the spring weight is the same as the old G17s, but it feels much stiffer and makes the slide about as hard to rack as a G26 (compared to the other 3rd gen 9mm Glocks). If the recoil is as noticeably different as some people have said, I guess it'll be worth it.
     
  7. voyager4520

    voyager4520

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    It's normal, happens with all Glocks. You have to re-seat the base of the guide rod into its notch in the barrel lug each time before reassembling, even if you didn't remove it or the barrel from the slide.
     
  8. njl

    njl Crusty Member

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    I know it's normal for them to come out of the "assembly notch", but this new setup likes to jump way out during disassembly, usually way off to the side. Maybe I'm torquing the slide during disassembly and causing it. I'll have to experiment some more.
     
  9. matteblack

    matteblack

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    Mine did this early, however it has gone away after a few hundred rounds. I think its a minor break-in issue. Those springs are robust.
    MB
     
  10. GOA Guy

    GOA Guy

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    At the gun shop where I work part time I have noticed a "hitch" in reassembly of the Gen4 guns after field stripping for for potential customers. This occurs quite often but not all of the time. Some guns are worse than others. I have not run into a piece that required any manipulation of striker or trigger assemblies to get the job done.
     
  11. voyager4520

    voyager4520

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    So the new trigger bar is the same as the G37/GAP series? I thought about asking why they'd do this, but then I remembered how they use the same recoil assembly for 9, 40 and 357. They want to keep as few parts as necessary for their whole business. And the regular trigger bars probably don't work in the GAP models.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2010
  12. FChen17213

    FChen17213

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    I guess we still don't have a definitive answer yet. For me, I was able to reassemble with the gun uncocked 4 times in a row. Then on the 5th time, it started binding again. Then I tried moving the trigger bar and recocking the gun. When I did this, it stopped binding.....I'm glad I'm not the only one though. When I first got the gun, I remember having it bind once and then I tried again. Then it went away so I didn't think anything of it.
     
  13. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    Did you try depressing the slide lock as suggested in post #3 to allow the slide to go on?
     
  14. FChen17213

    FChen17213

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    Yes. There is no inserted magazine so the slide lock is sitting in the lowest position possible.
     
  15. jmb79

    jmb79

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    Not the slide STOP, the slide LOCK... the slide lock is not affected by the presence of a magazine.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2010
  16. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    Correct, we are talking about the slide lock, or take-down lever. The lug on the barrel is designed with a ramp so that we reassembled, the lug slides up and over the lock. However, a previous poster reported that on his, the lug was hitting the lock too low and missing the ramp portion of the lug. It worked fine if he just pulled down on the lock during assembly (like you do when disassembling).
     
  17. FChen17213

    FChen17213

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    Oh ok. I see what youre saying. Yes, I tried that too when I had problems reassembling the gun. It didn't work. However, fiddling with the tragger bar has let me get it to work so I think it's all good.
     
  18. njl

    njl Crusty Member

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    In my testing so far, it doesn't appear the state of the trigger bar / connector matters, nor whether the striker is forward or back. I haven't had it get stuck during reassembly again today while varying those things.
     
  19. AustinTx

    AustinTx

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    This new recoil spring assembly is most strange. Most comments tend to claim the spring is stronger, in the gen4. It looks like Glock is still using the same spring power for 9mm, 357sig & 40S&W, in the gen 4 pistols too. It seems like the slide velocity would be an extreme spread between the 9mm and 357sig. I don't understand this new recoil spring or it's purpose that couldn't have been fixed by using a heavier aftermarket spring.

    I haven't noticed many folks needing a break-in period for a new Glock pistol, until fairly recently. There's just not very many "wear" places, in a Glock. There's hardly any contact surface where the slide rides on the guide rails. Not much friction anywhere.
     
  20. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    In a separate thread, a poster has probably hit upon your problem. He isolated the blockage to the trigger bar failing to depress the firing pin safety plunger. If he depresses the plunger with a wooden dowel up through the mag well, it slides right on. Things that can cause that are:
    1.) a dirty safety plunger channel
    2.) a rough back side of the trigger bar opposite the ramped portion used during firing
    3.) a rough safety plunger.

    If this is the problem, I'd clean the channel and I'd replace the plunger with the more rounded titanium plunger. However, an immediate workaround provided (what a shock) by Butch, is to depress the plunger by hand with the muzzle down prior to reassembly, resulting in the firing pin locking the plunger in the down/depressed position; in this position, the plunger no longer blocks the trigger bar.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2010