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Gen2 Glock 19 mild custom build, comments?

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by wademcgee, Jun 6, 2006.

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  1. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    First shot at a mild custom build. Wanted to do a Gen2, for the grip really fit my hands best. Let me know what you guys think. The top of the slide turned out awesome, Laser engraved it myself.
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  2. Bren

    Bren NRA Life Member

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    Nice - I love the slide flames - what did you use to do that?
     

  3. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    I have a 12" x 24" table top Laser engraver/cutter here at the shop. We normally use it for scale models, but worked like a charm on the Glock.

    I can do more for the right price...
     
  4. DMNSPD

    DMNSPD Modified Glocks

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    And that price is...?

    Very nice looking.
     
  5. henchmen77

    henchmen77

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    That slide is beat up you should Dura coat it.
     
  6. deuce9166

    deuce9166

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    The flames look GREAT!!!
     
  7. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    I know, it stinks. I'd be happy to trade a round of laser engraving for a round of Duracoating. I could always do it again.

    To be honest the actual engraving is a cake walk, drawing the vector art to feed the machine is the time consuming part. I suppose if someone wanted something simple (like letters, names, etc...) or something that I have predrawn as vector based art I would only charge $60 or so for the engraving. I have already traced the 19 model, so the rest should be fairly easy. The process should work on any surface that has been coated with a darker coating. The laser simply reveals what is beneath.

    Thanks for the kind words. I build amusement parks and huge toys for a living and this machine is used almost always for model making and control panels for rides...guns are way cooler and a heck of a lot more fun.
     
  8. buzz12

    buzz12

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    is duracoat engravable just wondering. i know that gun coat is. anyway just wondering. thanks
     
  9. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    not sure but I would assume so.
     
  10. henchmen77

    henchmen77

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  11. DBR

    DBR

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    Only time will tell, but I bet you "laser engraved" through the tenifer coating and lost the corrosion protection.
     
  12. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    To expose the Stainless, are you serious?
     
  13. DBR

    DBR

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    wademcgee:
    It is not stainless. It is carbon steel and if you penetrated/compromised the tenifer it will rust..
     
  14. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    Just so we are on the same page, I did do my homework before I stuck my $800+ investment under a laser. To summarize my research I have quoted what I basically feel to be true about the Glock stock surface:

    "Tennifer (nitro carburizing) is a pressurized gas heat treatment.The Tenifer finish is actually a metal treatment. The center of the slide is actually quite soft, but the outer few thousandths of an inch are extremely hard. The black color applied to the metal afterwards is just a phosphate coating; even when it's worn away the slide will still resist corrosion. If you scrape off the black, the nitraded metal remains because that is actually into the metal a little ways."

    If you look at the pictures I took my time not to etch into the "meat" of the gun, only the black top coating. I knew it would not rust, nor be compromised or the worn corners of the gun would have already begun to rust. I would have to dig into the face of the slide at least 3 thousands of an inch to penetrate the tenifer, I am not even close.

    Hope this helps clear up the rust discussion. Any positive comments?
     
  15. DBR

    DBR

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    I agree with your description of the Tenifer process with one exception. I believe the Glock spec says the Tenifer is 5-10 MICRONS thick. There are approximately 25 microns per .001". If I did the conversions correctly, 10 microns is approx .0004 thick.

    If you did only engrave through the phosphate then the design will wear off eventually.
     
  16. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    I'm just curious, I did this for me and decided to share it with the community. Do you have a point? Of course it will eventually wear off, so will the majority of the finish eventually but I have yet to see what in the world that has to do with anything. I like it and could really care less if you do. If you don't have something positive to say why contribute? I was hoping the gun community would have a more positive vibe, maybe I was wrong.
     
  17. DBR

    DBR

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    Because I wanted to be sure you knew what you might be doing to your gun. Also you seemed to be offering to do for work others and I wanted to be sure they considered the possible outcome. I think people should be fully informed.

    By the way if it makes you feel any better, I do like your designs.
     
  18. wademcgee

    wademcgee

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    A good explanation is worth a thousand words. That is all that I wanted to know. We have huge laser tables that can cut up to 3/4" thick steel plate, but that is why I opted for the table top one. Do a tiny fraction at a time. I presume this would last a good while, about as long as the stock finish does on the corners of a new gun.

    Either way I am going to recoat mine, then do it over again. The more I read the less I trust this Duracoat stuff though. I cannot see a spray on finish, not heat activated, lasting. Maybe I'm wrong but that goes against a lot of what I have been taught.
     
  19. DBR

    DBR

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    Glad we cleared that up!

    Look into NICS Industries Ceracoat particularly the heat cured version. I have used the room temp cure to match some parts to Black T and I am impressed. Also Merrill phenolic epoxy is very good.

    I don't want to slander any company and I could be wrong BUT I have reason to believe that Duracoat is similar to a polyurethane outdoor sign paint called Polane (sp) that we used for years on medical equipment. It was excellant for that purpose but not as hard and abrasion resistant as some of the newer finishes.

    Not to beat a dead horse but be careful what you use for surface prep on the Glock. Alox or silicon carbide blasting will probably eat the tenifer. Since the factory used phosphate that might be a possibility and will work better anyway.
     
  20. henchmen77

    henchmen77

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    I am about to dura coat my G19 and then my G23 after that. I just got some steal wool #0 to ruff up the slide alittle then I'll spray it.