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I have had the same experience with my G45 after 1000 rounds. Upon close inspection, for some reason the trigger bar would shift to the side when I pulled the trigger. I replaced the trigger bar and it went away immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I have had the same experience with my G45 after 1000 rounds. Upon close inspection, for some reason the trigger bar would shift to the side when I pulled the trigger. I replaced the trigger bar and it went away immediately.
Did u replace it with another glock part? Was it shifting to the point where the right side slide lock lever would bulge right before trigger break? In noticing that in my gun also
 

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Before you do buy & replace parts, do as suggested and detail strip & clean it.
I use Q tips and pipe cleaners in the channels, extractor channel, etc.
I then spray the internals of the slide with Horady OneShot Dry Lube. Let it dry before you reassemble. I leaves a thin coat of dry lube in the channel - so it lube w/o dunking up.
Started using this with my 10/22 and it's great stuff.
 

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Regarding Post_24, I suspect the part shifting is the SLIDE STOP, not the slide LOCK. This shifting of the slide stop can occur, when the trigger is pulled, if the trigger-with-trigger-bar's cruciform is not reinstalled within the trigger-spring's "hook". The trigger pull will feel awfully rough when the trigger mechanism isn't reassembled correctly.

This is just something else to check as ideally, a problem Glock would be in my hands along with some spare parts to substitute in, if necessary.

Here's a photo of what I'm talking about:
IMG_0167.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Before you do buy & replace parts, do as suggested and detail strip & clean it.
I use Q tips and pipe cleaners in the channels, extractor channel, etc.
I then spray the internals of the slide with Horady OneShot Dry Lube. Let it dry before you reassemble. I leaves a thin coat of dry lube in the channel - so it lube w/o dunking up.
Started using this with my 10/22 and it's great stuff.
Thanks. I should have clarified in my OP that I did a detail strip and cleaned the striker channel and hit it with shooters choice action cleaner. I'll look into the hornady stuff.

Regarding Post_24, I suspect the part shifting is the SLIDE STOP, not the slide LOCK. This shifting of the slide stop can occur, when the trigger is pulled, if the trigger-with-trigger-bar's cruciform is not reinstalled within the trigger-spring's "hook". The trigger pull will feel awfully rough when the trigger mechanism isn't reassembled correctly.

This is just something else to check as ideally, a problem Glock would be in my hands along with some spare parts to substitute in, if necessary.

Here's a photo of what I'm talking about:
View attachment 747726
OP

Thanks for the reply. The trigger bar is hooked correctly into the return spring. Spare parts right now would be very handy as I'm sure the problem would be corrected by now.

I actually called Glock and they were not very helpful. It's a new gun I bought a year ago and the dude basically told me to take it to a certified Glock armorer at my own expense.
 
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I'd be more cynical, but my apathy prevents it.
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Ignore it. Shoot the target, stay focused on the point of the gun.

5 years from now, you will have forgotten that you posted this.
Ignore how the trigger feels "wrong" to you. Focus solely on hitting the target and building up the speed of aquiring the target. If you do that, the trigger won't bother you.
Thanks for sharing, sorry about your Gen 5.
Just shoot it and forget about it.
I hope that none of you guys are mechanics. "Oh, the gas pedal has gotten sticky? Ignore it and focus on driving."

In to see what the resolution will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I ordered some parts. I'll advise once I find the solution.
 

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FWIW, Gen 5 triggers going to **** after a few thousand rounds is a well-documented phenomenon. Lots of folks on Pistol Forum found this to happen at the 3,000 mark. It’s kinda sad, because most Gen 5’s have the all time BEST trigger out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
FWIW, Gen 5 triggers going to **** after a few thousand rounds is a well-documented phenomenon. Lots of folks on Pistol Forum found this to happen at the 3,000 mark. It’s kinda sad, because most Gen 5’s have the all time BEST trigger out of the box.
If it's well documented then have we figured out what is causing these issues?
 

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It’s so well documented that it hasn’t come up in General Glocking or GSSF forums here, where people spend weeks complaining about tiny finish flaws or mag cut outs on the grip.
 

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If it's well documented then have we figured out what is causing these issues?
I believe a batch of parts early on were poorly treated/coated. Trigger bars. I would absolutely look for abnormal wear patterns on your trigger bar and connector. Maybe even lug face of striker.

I don’t believe a consensus ever emerged, but small part metallurgy was the suspected culprit over there. Here it seems like JG’s revelation about plastic pieces in the slide is all the rage. You should be able to test if it’s spring cups or Ch liner fairly easily. With the slide off, pull the striker to the rear and feel the compression. DO NOT let it spring forward full speed. If you can feel the same culprit, then consider messing around with the slide. The striker should also easily fall forward with gravity when you push the safety plunger.

A heck of a lot changed in the design of Gen 5 and Slimline compared to prior generations. I’m hesitant to blame it on any one root cause. If you have two guns or extra parts, it makes troubleshooting easier. I used stones up to 2000 grit to gently remove all tooling masks from the metal parts on my 48 and achieved a good trigger that has held up for over 1000 rounds. Quite possible to screw this up.

It’s easy to get caught up in the nuances of how Glock triggers feel. They’re all over the place. In my experience, Gen 5’s seem to tend to take a dump more easily. I run the connector exceedingly wet, particularly during break in. Wish I had a better answer. If you call Johnny Glock on the phone, he will likely walk you through troubleshooting your issue free of charge.

Now that I’m quarantining from competition for the year, my current philosophy is to keep it lubed to prevent galling. As long as Lyman scale tales me I’m under 6 pounds, I’m a happy camper. YMMV.
 

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It’s so well documented that it hasn’t come up in General Glocking or GSSF forums here, where people spend weeks complaining about tiny finish flaws or mag cut outs on the grip.
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread...thread-First-Impressions-Reviews-and-Thoughts

All things being equal, a lower percentage of folks here actually put thousands of rounds through their pistols. I don’t have the time to wade back through that thread today, but it is a real thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
20200428_083816.jpg
would this be considered abnormal wear? I can catch it with my fingernail.
20200428_083816.jpg
 

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Use the lonewolf channel liners, they are better than the factory ones
 

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It’s ridiculous to think you need a channel liner and new cups.
Clean it and shoot it.
that’s because you obviously haven’t had one with a bad channel liner...I have had hands on hundreds of glocks over 30 years, and it wasn’t until a gen 4 26 that I came across one with a bad channel liner...

it’s a real problem that exists, you just need to know what it feels like to known
 

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OP, Please post the results when you get it figured out. I am very interested in this problem. Not that I have experienced it because my Gen 5 Glocks are brand new. But I'm interested in case I do ever experience this problem.
 
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