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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Long time reader, first time poster.

I have a 1 year old Gen 4 G17 with about 2k rounds through it. I was attending a course on Sat and Sun and had some problems starting mid way through the second day. Gun ran flawlessly for about 600 rounds and all of a sudden, every 2-3 rounds I had a failure to feed/not going into battery. Tapping the slide forward fixed the malfunction.

I field stripped it to check it out, gave it a quick cleaning, and the problem persisted. Nothing looked out of place. I switched to another G17 and finished the day.

At home I completely disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned it to inspect. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary until I started racking the slide after re-assembly. I don't have another Gen4 to compare it too (my Gen 3s are very smooth when manipulating the slide) but there is a lot of resistance for the first inch or so of pulling the slide back and unless I completely slingshot the slide. It won't go into battery when it starts to encounter a lot of resistance when the slide is 3/4" extended (see attached pic - note that this is without a magazine).

Firearm Gun Trigger Airsoft Airsoft gun


I'm assuming that the slide of an empty gen 4 G17 should be able return to the correct position even if riding the slide forward?

I've made the following, potentially relevant modifications to the gun:
-Ghost Connector Pro 3.3lb (fitted myself)
-The Gun Co Trigger (uses a polished stock trigger bar and their custom trigger shoe)
-Extra power striker spring
-The frame had a lot of work done by a pro (stippling, trigger guard cuts, and index cuts)

I replaced all of the trigger components with stock and the behavior is the same. I removed all of the trigger components and the slide cycles smoothly. I was thinking of trying another RSA but that likely wouldn't explain why the slide operation is so rough with the trigger components installed.

Maybe try another trigger housing?

Any ideas?

Help is appreciated. Or, please let me know of a great Glock smith in the San Francisco bay area if you have suggestions.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Surprise! SCREW WITH OEM GLOCKS AND AMAZINGLY THEY DON'T WORK AS WELL!!


I've made the following, potentially relevant modifications to the gun:
-Ghost Connector Pro 3.3lb (fitted myself)
-The Gun Co Trigger (uses a polished stock trigger bar and their custom trigger shoe)
-Extra power striker spring
-The frame had a lot of work done by a pro (stippling, trigger guard cuts, and index cuts)
Only thing worse than a 1911 fanboy? The Glock OEM police. Thanks so much for the helpful response.
 

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interested what you find out. I had a similar issue with my gen3 23. Mine was not contestant though. it happend 2-3 times and then after i field stripped and put back together it stopped doing it. Mine was happening when a family member was shooting though not me so i'm on the fence on if it was a gun issue or if the family member was not holding it right. I started a thread of my own and the suggestion was a new RSA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Truth hurts, sorry, but I've been there and done that. I added all kinds of aftermarket ****e to my Glock and had nothing but problems.

Guy a couple thousand rounds. Take professional training classes. Learn to shoot your Glock OEM.

'nuff said.

Truth hurts, but it is good for you.
I have over 100k rounds through OEM Glocks. You know what happens when you assume?

If you had read my entire post, you'd see that I returned it to OEM and it still doesn't seem to be working.
 

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Let's go step by step.
First premise, any Glock works out of the box so it's something in the new addons (this is the starting point, I'm not saying it's true)

-The Gun Co Trigger (uses a polished stock trigger bar and their custom trigger shoe) -> If your trigger works OK, this item is not the culprit.
-Extra power striker spring -> The issue is not along all the way, just in a specific segment. Not the culprit.
-The frame had a lot of work done by a pro (stippling, trigger guard cuts, and index cuts) -> Nice but not remarkable or related to the issue.
-Ghost Connector Pro 3.3lb (fitted myself) -> Meeec, this one. -> Let's elaborate.

The segment of the slide traveling path you indicated matches with the part "pushing" the connector. Please remove the trigger system and replace the connector. Please check again and let us know.
 

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I feel for you brother. But what you describe as the problem (seems to
me) could be caused by a myriad of things. That fact that you re-installed the OEM parts and still had the problem may indicate damage to a part you didn’t replace. Are your slide groves damaged? Maybe the condition of the guiderod spring? An anomaly?

Hard to say without seeing more of the gun...,
 

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If it's only about a year old, the RSA ought to be the current dual sprung unit marked 0-2-4.

Even so, since dual spring RSA's are "assemblies", it's not impossible for one that slipped through manufacturing with one or more slightly out-of-spec (or unknowingly defective) parts to develop a problem with some wear/usage.

It would be quick and easy to eliminate the RSA as being involved by just trying another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Let's go step by step.
First premise, any Glock works out of the box so it's something in the new addons (this is the starting point, I'm not saying it's true)

-The Gun Co Trigger (uses a polished stock trigger bar and their custom trigger shoe) -> If your trigger works OK, this item is not the culprit.
-Extra power striker spring -> The issue is not along all the way, just in a specific segment. Not the culprit.
-The frame had a lot of work done by a pro (stippling, trigger guard cuts, and index cuts) -> Nice but not remarkable or related to the issue.
-Ghost Connector Pro 3.3lb (fitted myself) -> Meeec, this one. -> Let's elaborate.

The segment of the slide traveling path you indicated matches with the part "pushing" the connector. Please remove the trigger system and replace the connector. Please check again and let us know.
Thanks, Toni!

I'd previously returned the trigger parts to OEM and I thought the same behavior remained when at least just operating the slide, however after just changing the connector to OEM, the slide encounters the friction a little later - specifically at about 3/8". It's very consistent and behavior has changed. See attached:

Firearm Gun Trigger Airsoft gun Air gun
 

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Thanks, Toni!

I'd previously returned the trigger parts to OEM and I thought the same behavior remained when at least just operating the slide, however after just changing the connector to OEM, the slide encounters the friction a little later - specially at about 3/8". It's very consistent and behavior has changed. See attached:

View attachment 378703
oh sorry, I didn't read you already had returned those parts to OEM.
I'll try to think of something else and will post again (or learn from other posts ;))
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it's only about a year old, the RSA ought to be the current dual sprung unit marked 0-2-4.

Even so, since dual spring RSA's are "assemblies", it's not impossible for one that slipped through manufacturing with one or more slightly out-of-spec (or unknowingly defective) parts to develop a problem with some wear/usage.

It would be quick and easy to eliminate the RSA as being involved by just trying another one.
It's marked:
0 2
4

So, reading clockwise from 0, 0-2-4
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I feel for you brother. But what you describe as the problem (seems to
me) could be caused by a myriad of things. That fact that you re-installed the OEM parts and still had the problem may indicate damage to a part you didn’t replace. Are your slide groves damaged? Maybe the condition of the guiderod spring? An anomaly?

Hard to say without seeing more of the gun...,
Slide groves appear to be fine. Only thing I can think of at this point is the RSA. Happy to post pictures of any part that you think could be helpful.
 

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The RSA is the correct model
did you check the firing pin safety? (Plunger and spring) firing pin moving free when pressed, etc ?

If that's correct .... as others have already said, I'd try with a new RSA (it's cheap and easy to check)
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Im
The RSA is the correct model
did you check the firing pin safety? (Plunger and spring) firing pin moving free when pressed, etc ?

If that's correct .... as others have already said, I'd try with a new RSA (it's cheap and easy to check)
The firing pin safety isn't in being touched where the slide is currently stopping. Yes, it moves freely. Completely reassembled the slide too.

I'm ordering a new RSA. That's the only explanation I can think of considering my connector worked fine for 2k rounds. But please let me know if you can think of anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The RSA is the correct model
did you check the firing pin safety? (Plunger and spring) firing pin moving free when pressed, etc ?

If that's correct .... as others have already said, I'd try with a new RSA (it's cheap and easy to check)
Fixed it. Drum roll...it was the spring. THE OEM SPRING, YOU OEM DRONES. That's right, your beloved OEM spring failed after 2k rounds. Works fine with the stock trigger parts and the custom trigger parts.

Toni and Fastbolt,

Thanks for your help!
 

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Fixed it. Drum roll...it was the spring. THE OEM SPRING, YOU OEM DRONES. That's right, your beloved OEM spring failed after 2k rounds. Works fine with the stock trigger parts and the custom trigger parts.

Toni and Fastbolt,

Thanks for your help!
Hoped it was a common "fix".

FWIW, when the Gen4's were first being released I was told by Glock that the new RA's would probably be good for 6-7K rounds. That was before they started using different Gen4 RSA's for the 9's (17) & .40's (22).

Then, a little later we were told the Gen 4 RSA's ought to last up to 5K rounds. Naturally, just as with the previous RSA's, there's still the normal recommendation to replace any RSA sooner, as may be needed.

Now, I'd previously been told by Glock that the G27/26 RSA's probably ought to be replaced no later than 2500-3000 rounds, and then a later ('08) recommendation released for LE .40's for wearable parts replacement listed replacing the G27 RSA at 3K rounds, or sooner, if needed.

If you weren't using particularly hot loads for the last 2K rounds, it might simple be a matter of that particular RSA's spring's needing replacing sooner, rather than later. I check RSA's after each range session, myself, visually and for tension.

Glad it worked out for you.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pretty unbelievable after so few rounds. I really notice a difference in muzzle flip between my gen 3 and gen 4 17s so I’ll keep running this spring, but I guess it’s a good idea to stay stocked with another gen 4 spring or 2.
 

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Keeping at least 1 extra spring assembly on hand is a good idea, even if it's just a gaming gun, so you can avoid unnecessary "down time" caused by such a spring-related issue that may unexpectedly arise. ;)

I usually check the RSA tension when reassembling after each cleaning, or at least after each range use, but then I only use my Glocks as dedicated retirement carry weapons, so their optimal condition and functioning is of more than just "range" interest to me.

Besides, you might've just encountered that isolated RSA that started to weaken earlier than the next dozens of them you might end up using.

FWIW, the field RSA check generally isn't applicable for .45/10 models, due to their heavier slides. It's possible to induce a failure-to-return-to-battery in the field test even with a brand new RSA in the .45/10 models. You need to be able to assess and use other ways to monitor and determine when the RSA's have begun to reach the end of their useful service lives in the bigger calibers, including carefully assessing their continuing performance characteristics during live-fire.

Personally, I prefer to err on the conservative side of recoil spring/RSA replacement intervals. If I wait until I experience a weakened recoil spring-related stoppage on the range, it makes me feel I was just lucky it happened on the range ... instead of off the range, when I might desperately need optimal functioning to happen. ;)

Best regards.
 
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Keeping at least 1 extra spring assembly on hand is a good idea, even if it's just a gaming gun, so you can avoid unnecessary "down time" caused by such a spring-related issue that may unexpectedly arise. ;)

I usually check the RSA tension when reassembling after each cleaning, or at least after each range use, but then I only use my Glocks as dedicated retirement carry weapons, so their optimal condition and functioning is of more than just "range" interest to me.

Besides, you might've just encountered that isolated RSA that started to weaken earlier than the next dozens of them you might end up using.

FWIW, the field RSA check generally isn't applicable for .45/10 models, due to their heavier slides. It's possible to induce a failure-to-return-to-battery in the field test even with a brand new RSA in the .45/10 models. You need to be able to assess and use other ways to monitor and determine when the RSA's have begun to reach the end of their useful service lives in the bigger calibers, including carefully assessing their continuing performance characteristics during live-fire.

Personally, I prefer to err on the conservative side of recoil spring/RSA replacement intervals. If I wait until I experience a weakened recoil spring-related stoppage on the range, it makes me feel I was just lucky it happened on the range ... instead of off the range, when I might desperately need optimal functioning to happen. ;)

Best regards.
This seems like good maintenance and upkeep info! Thanks for the tip from a guy who carries and shoots Glock frequently.
 
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