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G5 Small Game Head

Discussion in 'Hunting, Fishing & Camping' started by lomfs24, Jun 20, 2006.

  1. lomfs24

    lomfs24

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    Has anyone here used the G5 SGH? They are supposed to be better, stronger etc... than a judo point. But I broke 4 inside an hour shooting gophers. One of them broke just above the threads so the arrow is useless unless I can get an insert out of a carbon arrow.
    I am not shooting a monster bow. It is a Hoyt Ultratech that is a couple years old set at about 70 lbs and Gold Tip arrows to match. Setup shoots under 270 fps on a good day.

    Has anyone else had better experiences with the G5 SGH?
     
  2. noway

    noway

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    Will for that cost ( g5 ) I 'm happy with the plastic bludgeon heads I have. These are 125grains and I've took 2 squirrels and 2 coons with these and it could be best described as hitting the animal with a hammer.

    Bow was a 1970 45lb Bear Grizzly and it would be lucky to see 130fps on a good day ;) I've also started using the metal judo points heads. They don't get buried in grass and branches like the plastic heads but they do cost a few dimes more.
     

  3. lomfs24

    lomfs24

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    Yeah, I have used blunts similar to those with aluminum arrows only they were slip on's not screw on's. I have not tried them with carbons. They were rough on aluminum arrows so I would think that they would be rough on carbons too. I don't know though.
     
  4. noway

    noway

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    I don't know what you mean by rough but i used dem on carbons and now aluminum with good results. The heavier ones flew better in my tuned bows and the penetrated about 6" or so into my shooting styrofoam block. I shoot these in my home at 7 yards and have to pull the heckout of the block to get them out. And that's from a 45 and 55 lb bows.

    1st animal I killed with one of those was a florida squirrel at 12 yrds & 17 ft or so up a side of a sabal palm. He stuck his head and neck out around the side when I was coming down a trailway and I nailed him in the head from that distance.

    I remember that kill like it just happen 1 hr ago. Arrow rls, hit squirrel, arrows falls pass the squirrel and then magically the squirrel fell to the ground dead. If it wasn't obvious, he suffered major head trauma :freak:

    I doubt i could make that same shot 2 times in a row tho ;) It was luck.
     
  5. lomfs24

    lomfs24

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    What I mean by rough on arrows is that if you hit anything solid it bent the arrow. I would imagine that if it were a light carbon like a Gold Tip the twist that they will provide if they hit something solid at an angle would cause a carbon to splinter. Something solid being something like a log or rock.

    Here's what I shoot. We call them gophers. They are called by a bunch of different names but techincally they are a Richardsons Ground Squirrel
     
  6. lomfs24

    lomfs24

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    As a sidenote, I sent an email to G5 and they said that if I wanted to send them back to them they wanted to see what would cause them to break and they would send me some new ones.
     
  7. noway

    noway

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    Okay that makes sense and was one reason why I drop the carbons.

    Glancing blow was damaging to the arrows and once I was target shooting next to a guard rail and the field point hit hte guard rail and jam the tip and ferrule back up thru the carbon shaft.

    Aluminums and woods are more durable as far as that goes
     
  8. lomfs24

    lomfs24

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    Interesting, I think it's interesting why people shoot what they do. I am not saying I am any more right or wrong than you but the reason I quit shooting aluminum is because they are too durable. Meaning, they will bend slightly without being too noticable. Then the arrow just doesn't shoot right. With carbons, they are either straight or broken.
     
  9. noway

    noway

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    That's fair and true but I never had a aluminum arrow get split, broke in half or anything else from glancing off a corner of my box target or a tree branch. My 1st use of the carbons net'd me w/alot of messed up carbon shafts that was NOT repairable :frown:

    these broken arrows piecese became brace-height check sticks once cutdown to size for my recurves ;)


    personly I think carbons are too lite as-is with out adding a glob of weight and I rather work on aluminum more so than carbons or woods. The only good thing on carbons are nock-insert are fully adjustable and rotateable without re-heating and regluing the plastic-nock which is the norm for wood/alum arrows shafts.


    btw: I simplified my wooden arrows sml-game shafts to using a brass or nickel 38 case with one 50grain 00B insert in the case before glueing on the wooden shaft tip. These just like the plastic bludgeon really nail anything they hits. From a 35-45lb bow they fly straight and hit hard. Really nails a squirrel dead if you get a body shot. I tried one on a dillo at 12paces and it put a hole thru and thru the size of the brass head.
     
  10. lomfs24

    lomfs24

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    I'll agree with you 100% with the split carbon shafts. I ruined three on steel targets at one archery shoot once. It was a painful day.

    I love the idea of the 38 Spcl. case on the end of an arrow. I'll bet that works like a champ. Quick, simple, effective. My kind of solution.