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G48 trigger issue

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I recently acquired a new-to-me G48 with the black slide. The one opportunity I had to shoot it, I had 2 instances (out of 200 rounds) of it failing to go fully into battery. I was shooting factory ball ammo.

Attempting to diagnose the problem at home, I've discovered that when the trigger is held back and the slide cycled, even if it is allowed to cycle freely, the slide stops just short of returning fully to battery until the trigger is released.

Disclaimer: I am not as familiar with the newer Glock trigger systems as I am with the Gen 2 and 3 system. I did own a 43 briefly (<2K rounds) and don't recall this happening. It definitely didn't have return-to-battery issues, though.

If I release pressure on the trigger slightly, It will go all the way forward. With the trigger held back after racking the slide, I can press the trigger back and forth (without letting it far enough forward to reset) and watch the barrel hood move up and down relative to the slide as well as the slide moving back and forth. This is on the order of a few hundreds of an inch of movement... similar to significant endshake on a S&W.

If I press on the back of the slide, I can still feel this movement happening, albeit to a lesser degree, so I don't believe it is simply a weak RSA. What it feels like is the striker spring running out of compression, but I have no idea how to determine that for sure. I did disassemble the striker assembly and check for burrs on the back edge. There was a slight catch, but even after I smoothed that out, there was no change in what is happening. I compared the striker spring to an old Gen2 striker assembly and discovered the spring from the G48 was actually about 1/4" longer than the Gen2 one. I swapped those springs out... still no change. Trigger pull weight and reset seem unaffected as well. Both are stock springs so that makes sense.

I also checked the striker safety spring and it is functioning properly.

I tried it with a dummy round, and while this eliminates the up-and-down movement of the barrel hood, the slide still goes back and forth.

The pistol is bone stock. I did a very mild fluff and buff with 1000 grit wet/dry paper in appropriate spots.

My theories:
1. Striker spring overcompressing
2. Trigger bar too long
3. Too much overtravel
4. ???
5. It's normal

Anybody have a clue? Here's a video.

https://vimeo.com/user115017211/review/416509815/be37c01dd9
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Without seeing the gun in-person; and not quite understanding what's being/been done to help fix the issue, so far; I can only guess the trigger bar's cruciform wasn't reassembled correctly as it should be. As shown in my attached photo, the trigger bar's "cruciform" must be tucked into the (trigger spring's) hook.

Just double-check that one item. Otherwise, without me being there to see this Glock, I don't know.

P.S. Another thought I just had was it could be an overly-weak recoil spring assembly, but my first guess is still the trigger-bar-cruciform-to-trigger-spring-hook reassembly being wrong.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Without seeing the gun in-person; and not quite understanding what's being/been done to help fix the issue, so far; I can only guess the trigger bar's cruciform wasn't reassembled correctly as it should be. As shown in my attached photo, the trigger bar's "cruciform" must be tucked into the (trigger spring's) hook.

Just double-check that one item. Otherwise, without me being there to see this Glock, I don't know.

P.S. Another thought I just had was it could be an overly-weak recoil spring assembly, but my first guess is still the trigger-bar-cruciform-to-trigger-spring-hook reassembly being wrong.
View attachment 753848
Cruciform is in it's little hook, and the RSA (recoil spring assembly) may be an issue, but since I can feel the slide move even when I'm pressing on the backplate, I'm disinclined to think so. I'll order a new one anyway just to have a spare, if nothing else.

I have a link to a video up in the original post now.

Thanks for your observations and suggestions!

Don't know if this will help you, but here it is anyway:

"Also, with the slide pulled all the way back, and the gun pointing up with the trigger depressed it won't go into battery until I lower it."

https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/slide-not-going-into-battery.1510123/

Also:

https://www.ar15.com/forums/Handgun...o-battery-until-the-trigger-resets/13-183356/

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/any-glock-armorors-here.771612/

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1457507
Thanks for these. I spent an hour searching through threads but these were more helpful than what I found. Still nothing definitive.
 

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Check the bottom corner of the birdshead ramp, there was a thread here that addressed a sluggish slide of a 48 and that corner seemed to be the issue, a light buff there and it seemed to correct the issue.
 

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I’ve had that problem occur on Glock and several other brands of pistols.
Especially, I’ve found it more common with the smaller framed models,...such as the G42, G43, SF 911, etc.
What solved these issues for me, was use.
Once the pistol round count totaled around 400+, all of my “out of battery” problems seemed to have disappeared, where as the pistols functioned flawlessly.
So, I see it as a “wearing in” process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for the responses so far!
Check the bottom corner of the birdshead ramp, there was a thread here that addressed a sluggish slide of a 48 and that corner seemed to be the issue, a light buff there and it seemed to correct the issue.
That spot isn't in contact with anything when my pistol is doing it's back-and-forth thing. Thanks for the suggestion!

Sounds to me like the recoil spring. Any idea of the round count prior to you purchasing it??
Guy said it was unfired, so probably quite low.

I’ve had that problem occur on Glock and several other brands of pistols.
Especially, I’ve found it more common with the smaller framed models,...such as the G42, G43, SF 911, etc.
What solved these issues for me, was use.
Once the pistol round count totaled around 400+, all of my “out of battery” problems seemed to have disappeared, where as the pistols functioned flawlessly.
So, I see it as a “wearing in” process.
Hopefully that will work with this one, too. It's under 300 as far as I know, but it's been hand-cycled at least 1,000 times by now. I should be able to put another couple hundred through it next week.

I just tried that on my G48 and it went into full normal lock up holding the trigger all the back.
No tiny movement of the slide going forward when I reset the trigger.
No play at all.
That's the goal. I really hope I can get this figured out. I love the size of this thing.
 

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I recently acquired a new-to-me G48 with the black slide. The one opportunity I had to shoot it, I had 2 instances (out of 200 rounds) of it failing to go fully into battery. I was shooting factory ball ammo.
This is just me stating my bias, but this situation, in general, is why I try to avoid buying used guns when I can. I don't know if the previous owner tried to give this gun a trigger job or if it was just a factory lemon, but the odds of both go up with used guns.

Attempting to diagnose the problem at home, I've discovered that when the trigger is held back and the slide cycled, even if it is allowed to cycle freely, the slide stops just short of returning fully to battery until the trigger is released.
It's normal for it to feel like there's less tension on the slide at this point because the striker spring itself rests on the frame only when cocked. I would not say that it's normal for the slide to fail to go into battery in this situation, although I have seen it...on a Glock 20 that had problems going into battery. Like I alluded to in my preface, guess what I did with that G20? I sold it.

The internal parts on modern Glocks are produced through metal-injection molding and Glock doesn't always polish the burrs off or verify the exact dimensions of every part. This is just my guess about your gun which I don't have access to, but perhaps it comes down to a mis-sized or ill-fitted internal part. Perhaps you can troubleshoot that, as others are suggesting. However, I would see if Glock is willing to honor their warranty on the gun and fix it for you. This is definitely not normal for a Glock 48, or any Glock in general.
 

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I know the 43x and 48 are different slides but I think everything in the frame is the same so I have an interest in your findings. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong about the frame internals but I’m around 700 rounds (200ish stock, 500ish with an Apex trigger) with no issues and I hope you get this sorted and I’ll be following to see what you find.


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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
This is just me stating my bias, but this situation, in general, is why I try to avoid buying used guns when I can. I don't know if the previous owner tried to give this gun a trigger job or if it was just a factory lemon, but the odds of both go up with used guns.


It's normal for it to feel like there's less tension on the slide at this point because the striker spring itself rests on the frame only when cocked. I would not say that it's normal for the slide to fail to go into battery in this situation, although I have seen it...on a Glock 20 that had problems going into battery. Like I alluded to in my preface, guess what I did with that G20? I sold it.

The internal parts on modern Glocks are produced through metal-injection molding and Glock doesn't always polish the burrs off or verify the exact dimensions of every part. This is just my guess about your gun which I don't have access to, but perhaps it comes down to a mis-sized or ill-fitted internal part. Perhaps you can troubleshoot that, as others are suggesting. However, I would see if Glock is willing to honor their warranty on the gun and fix it for you. This is definitely not normal for a Glock 48, or any Glock in general.
Yep, I do wonder if this is why someone got rid of an almost-new G48 in the first place. Sending it to Glock is certainly an option, and I won't do anything drastic to it beforehand, but I am one of those guys who likes to rescue old, rattly, out-of-time Smith revolvers and get them running great again. So my curiosity is engaged with this issue for the time being.

I took some measurements, and as best I can figure it is an overtravel issue of some sort... forgive me if some of my Glock terminology is incorrect.

The distance from the back edge of the trigger bar to the back edge of the frame is .289".

The distance from the front face of the striker hook to the back of the slide is .309" with another ~.02" where the slide sits just forward of the frame.

This means that the striker is running out of travel about .04" before the trigger bar is, which would explain why the slide moves at the end of the trigger travel.

As an experiment, I inserted a Temporary Improvised Overtravel Stop Device (folded up sticky note) in between the frame and the trigger bar at the rear of the magwell.

Problem kinda solved. The pistol passes the RSA strength test and the barrel no longer moves up and down with pressure on the trigger. There's still a hint of slide movement if I squeeze really hard.

So, looks like the overtravel could be from either an out-of-spec trigger bar or frame, or there might be some tolerance issues with the striker and backplate area.

I'm planning on getting a smooth trigger and bar from Spartan24 here soon, so I'll be able to tell if it's the trigger bar or something else.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!
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