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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did my mom not hold me enough as a child…who the F knows. Does that make me special…nope, and neither is the case of my G43X trigger not resetting. That’s why I’m here. You guys know the answer and I can’t find the explanation on a previous thread. Brand new G43X, trigger does not reset. It does not happen every time, but occurred 5 times over the course of 200 rds yesterday. A simple Tap & Rack remediates it, but I can’t run this thing in a gunfight and take the chance of that happening. This thread seems to cover it, but the image posted and referenced is now gone (probably due to the age of the thread) so I can’t see what everyone is talking about. Trigger Not Resetting

I’ve tried to do my own research, but I just don’t know enough about the mechanics. The above thread discusses a spring that I’m assuming pulls the trigger bar forward to reset the trigger. I watched this Video and took some screen shots to try and figure it out. Which spring is it?

The above thread asks “Is 43 trigger bar properly seated in 'v' of trigger spring?” I don’t know what that means or where to check.

I checked to make sure the front edge of the cruciform is under the front edge of another metal piece and it is. (Picture below). Lots of posts reference that as a problem.

Also, I recently had a Holosun 507K x2 installed, prior to ever shooting it. (This is the only aftermarket product on the gun) I have heard that some of the mounting screws could be too long and can impact a plunger? Could this cause the issue? I had the installer use the screws that came with the This Kit and claim to be the correct length, so assuming he did should I rule that out?

What should I check, what do you think, is there another thread that clearly gives me the answer and I just couldn’t find it? Should I just put a new Apex Trigger in there and fix the spring when I do that? Lol

I’m attaching a few pictures below:
2x screenshots trying to understand which spring I should be checking (yes I know the video is of a G19 and the spring is different)
1x pic at the range of the lower dirty
2x pics of the clean gun after shooting showing some werid ware that I’m not sure should be there.

Thank you for your help.

Wood Bicycle part Automotive exterior Rim Bumper

Trigger Bumper Gun accessory Gas Tints and shades

Font Gas Cylinder Screenshot Office supplies

Automotive tire Tire Tread Synthetic rubber Water

Hand Musical instrument Finger Musical instrument accessory Office equipment
 

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Post 1, you're indeed doing good work in internet researching, but somebody in-person diagnosing and showing you what may be wrong is best.
Your photo (bottom photo) does show your trigger bar properly being engaged with the trigger spring "notch". Not being engaged in the trigger spring's "notch" is the common or usual problem, but that isn't your situation/problem.

Do let us know in this thread when you do determine what the problem was. I know I'm curious as to what the problem is/will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When it doesn’t reset is it chambering a fresh round? I’m wondering if the added weight of the RMRnis causing it to short stroke?
Yes it chambers a round.
My local Glock Armorer said everything looks fine and he didn’t know. Sooo….
They had a Black Friday deal and I picked up an Apex Trigger. I’m on my way to the range now. New trigger, clean, and lubricated…I’ll let you know what happens.
 

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When it doesn’t reset is it chambering a fresh round? I’m wondering if the added weight of the RMRnis causing it to short stroke?
I have RMRcc's on two 43X's and I haven't had any issues. The sights weigh an ounce which is likely close to the weight of the metal that was removed from the slides to install them. If 9mm can move the slide on a government model 1911, it won't have a problem with a 43X with a RDS.
 

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I had same issue with my 43x .. mine is bone stock non mos (except for night sights). After about 50 rounds at first range session it would eject, chamber a new round, but the trigger wouldn’t reset. Did it a few times that session. Got home and everything looked assembled properly. I took off back plate and removed striker and cleaned out striker channel with q tips. There was gunk in there. Not sure if that is what caused the issue but next range session it worked flawlessly. I was using herters cheap cabelas 9mm ammo .. maybe also ammo related?
 

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Tell us more about exactly what state the trigger is in when it fails to reset. Is it completely locked against the rear of its travel, a dead trigger? Or after the pistol cycles, are you able to release pressure on the trigger and have it move forward a bit?

If it was my pistol and for whatever reason I chose not to call Glock, or if I couldn't get it resolved through Glock I would begin making educated part change guesses in approx this order:
Part # 25 - Trigger Spring - This part pulls tension on the rear of the trigger bar cruciform to the rear and up, allowing it to move rearward & upward during cycling when the ramp on the underside of the slide bumps the top of the connector to the left. This allows the rear of the trigger bar cruciform to be engaged by the firing pin engagement surface as the slide moves forward upon cycling.

Connector
Trigger mechanism housing
Trigger & Trigger bar
Firing pin assembly (Or firing pin and firing pin Spring at least).

Random thoughts on glock pistol cycling & Trigger reset that may be helpful-

Trigger reset happens within (approx) the 1st 1/3 of rearwood slide movement during cycling. So if the pistol is chambering a round it has more than enough rearward movement to reset the trigger.

Assuming you hold the trigger to the rear upon firing a round, and slowly release it afterward, The audible click during the reset of the trigger is the top of the connector snapping back to the right (Right-as viewed from the rear of the pistol, as you would see it upon shooting it) when you allow the trigger / trigger bar to move forward and back out of the way of the connector.

The firing pin spring places forward tension on the firing pin. The trigger Spring places rearward tension on the trigger bar. When the side is fully forward and the pistol is cocked the firing pin spring tension is overcoming the tension of the trigger spring.

Sorry if my use of terminology wasn't perfect. I'm not the most knowledgeable glockster on here but I've taken my own glocks apart hundreds of times and I know how they work.
 

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Don't know if this is the cause but your upward extension on the trigger bar is dragging on the safety plunger. If it were mine I would clean the rub marks and polish the top of the extension. The 43 uses a 5.5 lb striker spring so that should be more than enough to return the trigger. I would look for signs of friction and polish that area.
It also looks like you are using a heavy lube. I don't care for those and would disassemble the lower and remove that and replace with a finer lube.
 

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Also, I recently had a Holosun 507K x2 installed, prior to ever shooting it. (This is the only aftermarket product on the gun) I have heard that some of the mounting screws could be too long and can impact a plunger? Could this cause the issue? I had the installer use the screws that came with the This Kit and claim to be the correct length, so assuming he did should I rule that out?

What should I check, what do you think, is there another thread that clearly gives me the answer and I just couldn’t find it? Should I just put a new Apex Trigger in there and fix the spring when I do that? Lol
O.K., lets see if we can figure this out.

first, field strip your weapon, hold your frame as you would when shooting it, finger off the trigger.

your last picture shows the correct installation of the trigger cruciform, verify that is still the case.

with your off hand, push forward on the vertical extension on the trigger bar that engages the striker safety in the slide (towards the muzzle), it should reset, pull the trigger to the rear and watch what's happening at the trigger housing assembly, do it a couple of times, should have some resistanse but should move smoothly.

next, with your slide up side down, depress the striker safety and release it, should move smoothly with little resistance.

next, hold your slide muzzle down and remove the slide cover plate at the rear, I could explain how to do it here but there are vid on youtube that will show you which will be much easier to understand, picture worth a thousand words, vid worth a million.

ones the slide plate is remove, two things should "pop up" slightly, your striker assembly and the extractor rod assembly, remove both the striker assembly and the extractor rod assembly, both should come out freely, this is also a check for screw mounting your HS507K that protrudes into the extractor rod bore in the slide, if you can't remove the extractor rod assembly, you got a screw that's too long.

look at the striker assembly, make sure its assembled correctly, collage of youtube is your friend. inspect the extractor rod assembly, plastic end-spring-rod, should stay together when removed.

clean your slide using alcohol and q tips, reassemble but don't use any lube on the striker assembly or the extractor rod assembly.

reassemble the slide to the frame, hand cycle, pull the trigger (empty of course), hand cycle and pull the trigger a couple of time to see if your getting trigger reset reset, let us know what you get.
 
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