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G30 Problem ?

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by mikiep, Apr 15, 2012.

  1. mikiep

    mikiep

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    New to me G30, bought from friend. He shot 4 mags before I got it. I took it to the range and ran 50 rounds of Federal 230gr down the range. I'm not sure if it's a problem or not since the G30 only had a total of 90 - 100 rounds fired but, after reading about others having ejector problems with other model Glocks I figured I would ask.
    Out of the 50 rounds I fired I had 1 stove pipe, 3 or 4 casings to the head. I also noticed the ejection was sluggish some. Anyway, the manufactured date for this G30 was March 12, 2011. Ejector serial number is 8196-2 and trigger bar 4256-1-. Would those be the original parts? Is there a problem with G30's from this manufactured date? I called Glock CS and they stated they haven't heard anything about the G30 having ejecting problems. So, am I looking at future problem with gun or is it just breaking in. Thanks
     
  2. GRT45

    GRT45 Transform & Win

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    The ejector and trigger bar numbers you have are current for the G30. I can't say I've read of systematic, mechanical problems with stove pipes and errant ejection pattern for the G30 45ACP.

    The probable causes of failure to eject or erratic ejection/stove pipes are the following (Glock Armorer's Manual, ©GLOCK 2009, Pg 83):
    • Broken or damaged ejector
    • Underpowered ammunition
    • Dirty chamber
    • Shooting with an unlocked wrist
    • Lack of lubrication
    • Dirty gun
    I see from your earlier posts that you own other pistols and I assume you are an experienced shooter. If you're confident that it's not limp-wristing and the gun is clean and lubricated, I would suggest shooting it some more (150-200 rounds) and perhaps try a different ammo (for example, Speer Lawman 230gr TMJ).
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012

  3. scosgt

    scosgt

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    Federal ball worked fine for me when my gun was new.
    But a couple of things:
    1. CLEAN IT. GET THE PACKING GREASE OUT.
    2. Detail strip the slide so you can run a brass brush GENTLY over the breech face by where the extractor sits. And clean the extractor claw. And put a TINY DROP of oil on the part of the extractor that plugs into the frame and wipe it off. Mine was binding the first time I stripped the slide, it does not do that anymore. A binding extractor can and will cause a problem.
    3. Polish the tip and side of the trigger bar where it rubs, use the search function here there are many posts about where to polish. Use a Dremel with a felt wheel and red or white rouge and do not cut anything, just polish.
    4. You may be better off with the -1 trigger bar and NOT the -1-
    Many people have reported problems with the -1-

    5. Open the mags and work the springs. Then leave them loaded. A stovepipe could be caused by drag from the next round down. I polished the bottom of the follower on the slide on mine to prevent drag. It helps.

    You could have a bad gun, but most people just do the above steps and it renders the gun perfect.
     
  4. barth

    barth six barrels

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  5. barth

    barth six barrels

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    I'm going to get beat up for this.
    But I truly feel any Glock should perform right out of the box.
    That's part of the reputation that's made them so popular IMHO.

    Some gun manufacturers use such tight tolerances that
    a break in period is recommended for reliable function.
    Kahr and Kimber would be examples.

    But guns like Glock and Sig Sauer, out of the box, should be;
    strip, clean, assemble, load and go.

    Ok I have finished my Sunday rant - LOL!
    [​IMG]
     
  6. vinstang67

    vinstang67

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    No problem with mine (no work done to my G30 except Mep night sights).
    I ran Winchester white box, UMC, Federal, Tulammo (I felt weak), and Blazer/ total 1920 rounds.
    The only time I had FTF was yesterday with very new 9 rds mags.

    I would check what's been siad by other members and run more rounds:supergrin:
     
  7. scosgt

    scosgt

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    You are absolutely right. But the G30/30sf is such a great gun that it is worth doing a few steps to get it right. Once it is right, it should be perfect forever.
     
  8. GRT45

    GRT45 Transform & Win

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    To clarify for mikiep, the pickup rail (aka stripper rail) is what you polished on the slide (I assume).

    Photo below courtesy of GT member Butch.

     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  9. barth

    barth six barrels

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    Well I can live with that.
    I have G27 myself that's my EDC.
    She's my best girl, and if she did misbehave?
    I'd be willing to work with her - LOL.

    Thing is I occasionally conciser adding a compact Glock 45 to the fold.
    Seems like I've read of some issues with the G36 and G30 SF guns.
    But I thought the G30 was bulletproof?

    If the problems are minor and can be mitigated - I'm OK with that.

    Have a great rest of this weekend!
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  10. remington79

    remington79

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    Check your ejector. I would get some brass to the face every so often. I looked at my ejector and felt it. It had a burr on it. I've since shot the burr away and I haven't had anymore problems.
     
  11. scosgt

    scosgt

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    You are correct. Again, no cutting just a good polish. The very end of that rail is in contact with the top round of the mag in recoil. As well, that is the contact point when trying to chamber a round from a closed slide. If there is excess friction, it can cause a short stroke FTF or a stovepipe. I never had to do that on any other glock, but none of my other Glocks has such a tight mag when fully loaded that it is near impossible to cycle the slide over it. But the slightest rough spot will wreak havoc with function.
     
  12. scosgt

    scosgt

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    And just to add, that may be the reason that some ammo works and some does not - military brass have very hard cases and will not gouge as easily or deeply as commercial cases. And commercial cases vary. A softer case will be more likely to impair the slide action if that rail has a burr or is not smooth.
     
  13. mikiep

    mikiep

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    Thanks for the tips and suggestions. The stove pipe doesn't really concern me, it was only once and could be a few things. However, those 3 or 4 casings that got me is my concern. I'm going to do the suggestions that were mentioned but for now I'm going to write it off as being new and not broke in yet.
     
  14. voyager4520

    voyager4520 -----

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    If you know how, you might want to do a detail strip cleaning of the slide. Residue built up around the extractor can cause erratic ejection and failures to eject. If you use oil on the slide's internal parts and internal areas for corrosion protection, make sure you wipe everything as dry as possible before reassembly. Excess oil in the slide internal parts can collect excess residue and brass shavings which will cause various malfunctions.

    It's also possible that it has an out-of-spec extractor, replacing it with a new G21/G30 LCI extractor might fix the problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2012
  15. Cavibull1

    Cavibull1

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    Could it be the ammo that is at fault? The reason I ask is that I've put 600 rounds through my G30. Half of them were reloads and the other half were the Federal 230gr. I had a Federal casing that didn't fully eject on me this past Saturday. That was around round 540. The round in question was also the next to last round in my magazine. The Federal bullets were also purchased from Walmart and the reloads were purchased from the range I go to. Just asking because I don't or need this to happen again since this is going to me my carry gun.