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Glock 20 G20 blew out original extractor at about 1400+ rounds

  1. First time I ever have one of my glocks (Gen4: 2 G20's and 2 G40's) hiccup on me. And I consider this a major hiccup had it happened when I was hiking in bear country or facing any other threat. Although I would not be using the cheap rounds then either.

    I was at the range today, onto my second magazine loaded with Sellier Bellot when G20 seemed to have stove piped. Pulled and pushed on slide with gentle force only to see the extractor fall out and plunger pin sliding out from front. Field stripped the G20 and empty round was stuck in barrel. I had to grab the stuck case with the broken extractor part and with force to get it out.

    My diagnosis points me to 3 issues:

    1. The Sellier Bellot round that jammed was a bit out of spec or at end of spec range to the up side. As it was very difficult to pull out of barrel.

    2. Barrel which is a Storm Lake (Please read below before you comment on this one) and is little tighter then OEM barrel, and which had never jammed before with all sorts of rounds, seemed to be barely failing the plunk test now after no cleaning for about 450 rounds, but did pass the plunk test when it was cleaned before and after this incident.

    3. Not cleaning the barrel more regularly. Gun been shot at range for 6 straight times at about 75 per outing without a single cleaning. There seem to have been considerable black powder build up in chamber. The 3 cases that I used for the plunk test all passed comfortably after the cleaning.

    I know many will point to the barrel as the main culprit and that I should not be using non-OEm parts, however in reality it is only 1 of 3 culprits and probably the lesser one. Why Storm lake barrel? Reason i bought Storm lake at the time was because my G20 was mostly for woods protection and needed to use hard cast bullets. And long ago I was under the impression that hard casts FN "lead" bullets better not be used with OEM barrels.

    Anyway I do keep at home spare parts for my G20/40 and just replaced the broken part. Heading back to the range tomorrow probably to give it a go with a clean barrel this time. And I am strongly considering switching back to OEM or KKM barrel (which I do have on 1 of my G40's).

    I hope at the least I contributed something with this post. Please let me know your thoughts or if any suggestions. Or maybe you can see something more then the 3 points I mentioned above. For example could it have also been a defective extractor just waiting to break? .. Or did maybe my pulling and pushing on the extractor break it, although I only used what I consider to be very gentle force.

    One thing I would like to know is what is the normal life span of an extractor? using OEM barrel and all. And are there any suggested high quality after market extractors you recommend?

    Thanks Much :)

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  2. You had a MIM part fail. Yours won't be the last. If they're good, they're good. If they're gonna go, they do it in the first couple thousand rounds. I'm not sure I'd be focused on the barrel.

    I've replaced the MIM extractor and firing pin with milled in my serious Glocks. Sorry, I don't know of a source in 10mm.
  3. I have a g20 with a Storm Lake .40 conversion barrel. Been through a couple a couple of classes with it. At least 5000 rounds through it, with a couple of weekends that put over a thousand down range in two days. Never a hiccup. Not saying it's impossible for the barrel to be an issue, but I don't think it is in your case.
  4. Not 10mm, but my .40 reloads blew out the extractor couple times. I felt the charges were bit too much too, so I marked them down as bad reloads and not the gun itself.

    The 10mm Sellior Bellot ammo I shot out my G21SF with LW 45-10mm conversion barrel were fine. It's pretty weak stuff.
  5. It's what MIM parts do. I'll never trust my life to one.
  6. I appreciate the comments. I have had many Glocks through the years and have decided that Glock is no different than any other Manufacturer.

    Strength and Design along with final fit and function will be dynamic as you introduced loads of different pressures.

    The decision to carry and use models produced is our decision. I’ve decided that for my needs the tool will be the 26/17....for needs beyond that a Ruger Super Redhawk is my choice.

    The 29/20/40 are great models, I no longer trust a favorable outcome for today’s loads.
  7. Without seeing more pictures (mainly of the case head) but going on your commentary of the case being stuck in the chamber, I would say you had an overcharged round of S&B. If the case head had a hole in it, then definitely.

    MIM, just like forged parts can have defects. You may have had a combination of an overcharged round and an extractor that would have given up the ghost, even with a normal loading, sooner or later.

    FWIW, the only two parts I have ever had fail on a handgun were both so-called forged parts, but it won't surprise me if one day I also get a MIM part failure. :)
  8. My original extractor went to over 200,000 rounds in one of my G17s. It didn't break, but just plain wore down the claw.
  9. mine did exactly the same thing at about the same point.
    got a replacement from a GLOCK armorer and ordered/installed forged for the G20 and G29.
    now have two spares.
  10. Where did you locate a forged extractor?
  11. Bingo!

    A person who thinks as I.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. The only aftermarket extractor I know of for 10mm is Lone Wolf's, it's investment cast A1 tool steel.
  13. A follow up: after the incident mentioned above, I bought 3 Lone Wolf stainless steel extractors as a replacement for my two G20's and 1 of my G40's. It looked to be a fine part but it caused all sort of feeding and jamming issues. One of the G20's had issues (FTF, FTE, +) on about every 5 rounds. The other G20 and the G40 had only FTF's but on much higher round count. Rapid fire increased the rate of these failures. Going back to glock parts the issues all went away and they work flawlessly again including the rapid fire.

    I am choosing to take a part that broke once for me over the stronger one (stainless steel billet) that caused reliability issues. However I do wish that glock made this part from a stainless steel billet. I will be a buyer.
  14. The only thing mentioned that seemed to be out of the ordinary was the stuck case that needed a lot of pressure to remove. I agree this was the cause or at least a contributing factor to the part failure.

    FWIW I keep seeing these reports of random problems and failures with S&B ammo dating back to the issue of hard primers several years ago, I have already stopped buying S&B ammo.
  15. I think the almost bad round stressed the mim part. I get all sorts of grief when I comment on my gen 2 glocks with zero mim being great. It's not that mim parts are all junk, it's that when they fail they fall apart.

    So the odds of a failure at a critical time are very low... but the chance does exist.

    Most glock owners dont put 1000 rounds thru the gun the entire time they own it. I am not a police guy, but I am guessing police shoot less than 500 rounds a year for training and qualification. So mim parts work great for those numbers. They are also cheaper to make.

    I really like 1911's and my better ones have no mim parts. All tool steel. For a range or competition gun it's not really a bad deal. Your odds of a failure are so very low... so mim issues are way overblown, but they do have a place in discussion of serious guns.
  16. Orange dot, I don't think the round was way out of spec. Maybe just on the edge. I dont think your barrel is bad. Just slightly different than factory stuff. Remember the factory barrel is setup for new factory ammo. Not reloads and not lead. I think either works ok for your uses, but hey maybe if your in the woods with one gun use your glock barrel. Bear spray works better than a handgun from what I am told. But I am not doing testing on that.
  17. NO, that's wrong and the start of your problems. You can shoot hard cast in any OEM Glock, even not so hard cast. I ran over 2,200 rounds of hard cast thru a G23 back in 92 at GunSite without issues (other than it's not so easy to clean using ChoreBoy copper pads wrapped on a bore brush). In fact it was the only gun that ran the whole week. And for decades thousands of competition shooters where running hard cast lead, until that was pretty much displaced by coated bullets.

    The reason most shooters went to an aftermarket stainless barrel (other than a bit shorter ramp) is because it's so, so, so much easier to clean the leading than OEM by using the old BullsEye cocktail of 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. Let it fizz for a few minutes and just pour out the lead. Not to used on OEM barrels because it can pit the barrel (SS will not pit). Also because you finish ream the SS barrel to your exact hand loads.
  18. ^^^ Agree ... but with conditions, eh?
    There is so much misunderstanding, or misinformation about Hard Cast Lead and Glock OEM barrels that I can understand Glock's Warning to not shoot it in their barrels.
    I have just finished my first box of 1000 Straight Shooters 225gr FN HC BHN15 blue lubed bullets through my G21 OEM barrel, and just received my second order of 1000 (avg 11¢/bullet incl S&H)
    Initially, the HC bullets wouldn't feed reliably ... it wasn't the HC lead, it was the die adjustment for the .452" bullet.
    Then, I had slight leading. It turned out that pushing the 225gr HC lube bullet at .45+P pressures/velocity was the problem. Backed off charge to .45 ACP pressures (850 fps) and leading went away.
    I don't have the vast experience of many of the GT HC Lead aficionado's, but I have learned my early lesson that if you have leading in the OEM Glock barrel using HC Lead, you aren't doing it right!

    As far as the MIM extractor breaking, I'd suspect that since the case was struck in the chamber the round was overcharged, and the stress of extracting it would either rip off the rim of the casing or break the extractor. Yes, MIM parts are about 60% of forged parts tensile strength, but usually in excess of 'in service' stresses. And, Yes, both extruded and injected parts can have flaws. And, Yes, had a SS forged extractor been used, the case head/rim may have failed instead of the ejector.
    ... and manufactured ammo isn't all that error-free vis-a-vis handloaded ammo; e.g., Winchester just recalled .38 Special 130gr FMJ due to overcharge (Symbol USA38SPVP Lot#: KF21, KL30, & KM52)
  19. Did you change the spring loaded bearing when you installed the LWD stainless steel extractor?