[VCoupe376ci]

Hello all, I read these forums quite a bit and though this is my first post here, I thought I would give direct pull weights using a lyman's for some common connector/trigger spring questions I see a lot of people ask/speculate about.

All Stock glock gen 4 - with (dot connector) - 7.4# avg

If you change from the gen 4 trigger bar (The one with the bump) and put in a gen 3 trigger bar with no bump - 6.#5oz avg

All stock with gen 4 bar, this time just changing out the stock 4# trigger spring to a 6# trigger spring, 7#.05oz avg

Stock glock gen 4 bar + ghost 3.5# connector 6#.9 oz

Gen 3 bar + dot connector + 6# trigger spring 5# 15oz

This was done on my glock that has all polished parts. Surprisingly, they biggest change in pull weight was no doubt the gen 3 trigger bar, even over the connectors. The trigger spring provided roughly a 3 oz trigger drop.

Anyways hopes this answers some questions.

My Lyman should be arriving today and I can contribute to this. I have both a Gen 3 and Gen 4 17 with duplicates of the fire control parts so I will add to this later. Both G17's have a low round count and were manufactured recently, the Gen 3 being a mid 2014 pistol and the Gen 4 being test fired last month.

I can tell you neither of mine are above a 7lb pull weight. Where on the trigger were you placing the gauge when testing? The higher on the face you are, the less leverage you have creating a heavier pull. Being that a finger takes up most of the lower part of the trigger face, the closest you can get to an accurate measurement when using a thin bar is placing the gauge near the center of the lower half of the trigger face.

I only mention this because even with the worst machining tolerances possible, I cannot see a trigger pull that heavy unless you intentionally put a NY1 and a Gen 3 unmarked connector in a Gen 4 pistol.

 

[VCoupe376ci]

I've used the lymans many, many times and understand the importance of getting the correct positioning for accurate results. I use this to see what mods, or if any have any affect on the stock trigger pull to measure what people claim vs what is realistic so I know what actually works, vs a waste of money and time in parts. That being said, I just provided a concrete video, and I could post more, but the results will be the same. The trigger gauge is not getting changed to some *better* pull position when I put the gen 3 bar in. I've done more than 40 pulls on each and get the same result non-stop. Trust me, I'd love to run the gen 4 bar because of better alignment over the safety plunger. But results are the results. You can debate it all you like, but I understand the disbelief because this is my first time posting, in this forum. This is my personal experience as shown on what reduces the trigger weight, by how many ounces on each part tested, many times. All glocks are different I'm sure - I was just sharing what my testing found on swapping trigger bars.

(to answer your question, I pull directly in the middle of the trigger where my finger placement would be. Using the gauge at the bottom of the trigger, close to dragging across the bottum of the trigger bar nets almost 2lb lighter results, however its not realistic, as no ones finger is perfectly skinny enough to pull the trigger at the exact bottom of a trigger on a glock.) ymmv.

Also - You said you found no nominal difference between the glock 3 and the glock 4 via connectors and trigger bars, yet theres posts, upon posts of people preferring and noticing quite the difference in the gen 3 pull weights stock vs stock of the gen 4's, a simple search will net this.

The only explanation then is either a gauge problem (don't have enough experience with the gauge to even know how possible this is), or an issue with Glock having very loose specifications when machining parts causing variances from pistol to pistol depending on what parts combination ended up in the gun.