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Hey fellas, there seems to be so much disagreement as to what solution to use to clean the interior components of the Glock frame. I use Hoppes #9 on the barrel and slide, but I was told not to use it on the frame internals due to the nickel coated components. Is rubbing alcohol a safe cleaning solvent for these interior parts, or do you gents recommend something else? Thanks in advance gentlemen.
 

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Rubbing alcohol works great..
 

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I use Hoppe's #9 all around - barrel, internals, frame. The only part I ever noticed flaking on was the firing pin safety. Don't know - or particularly care - if #9 played any part in it.
 

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For a quick clean, I use Break Free Powder Blast. It cuts through powder residue quite well. A few wipes with a blue shop towel and some cotton swabs for the hard to reach spots and I'm done. When I detail strip, I use Simple Green and hot water. It works fantastic plus it's biodegradable and non-toxic. I prefer the lemon scented variety myself.
 

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Simple green for the frame providing you have detail stripped it.
 

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I use Hoppe's #9 all around - barrel, internals, frame. The only part I ever noticed flaking on was the firing pin safety. Don't know - or particularly care - if #9 played any part in it.
I would say the ammonia based Hoppies is the culprit. The firing pin safety and the firing pin are nickle plated with a copper undercoat. The only place that needs an ammonia based cleaner is a heavily copper fowled bore. Ballistol and alcohol is all I use, for what it's worth.
 

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eezox
 

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i use rubbing alcohol.
 

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Hey fellas, there seems to be so much disagreement as to what solution to use to clean the interior components of the Glock frame. I use Hoppes #9 on the barrel and slide, but I was told not to use it on the frame internals due to the nickel coated components. Is rubbing alcohol a safe cleaning solvent for these interior parts, or do you gents recommend something else? Thanks in advance gentlemen.
I spray simple green inside the frame let it sit for 5 minutes then use a old toothbrush to clean out the frame and the inner workings of it, Then i spray it out with hot water from the sink and let it dry in the dish rack. Once it dries i oil the connector and the frame is done. Been doing it this way for 11 years now and it works like a charm!
 

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I would say the ammonia based Hoppies is the culprit. The firing pin safety and the firing pin are nickle plated with a copper undercoat. The only place that needs an ammonia based cleaner is a heavily copper fowled bore. Ballistol and alcohol is all I use, for what it's worth.
All of that, is true. But, the plain old Hoppe's #9 will also dissolve nickle, if left in contact long enough. Many years ago, I left some Hoppe's #9 in an old Colt 1917, in .45 Colt with the gun loaded. I forgot that I hadn't wiped the Hoppe's #9 out, with a dry patch. Several weeks later I found the ammo sort of glued in the cylinder and coated with some kind of green copper residue.

I won't use any of those strong ammonia based solvents. I think they're too likely, to cause damage to a gun. That's just my opinion.
 

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strip the frame down and then use soap and hot water in the sink.
In fact, when mine get real nasty, most of the larger parts get this treat ment, with very hot water and a good scrubbing.
 

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i use a ultrasonic cleaner and simple green. 4 minutes and most everything looks brand new. dry everything, spray everything that needs lubed with one shot and reassemble, except the connector gets moly lube.
 

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I've used Break Free Powder Blast very effectively. Wear plastic gloves.
With all of this Simple Green being used, I'm starting to worry that the Sierra Club has taken up shooting. Must be a conspiracy...
S2
 

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The only thing I have seen with a Mil Spec number is Break Free CLP.

MIL-L-63460 NATO CODE S-758-9150-01-079-0124

This is the only product used by Glock in Smyrna GA as well.
:patriot:
 

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Hey fellas, there seems to be so much disagreement as to what solution to use to clean the interior components of the Glock frame. I use Hoppes #9 on the barrel and slide, but I was told not to use it on the frame internals due to the nickel coated components. Is rubbing alcohol a safe cleaning solvent for these interior parts, or do you gents recommend something else? Thanks in advance gentlemen.
If you'll switch over to MPro-7, you can use it anywhere on your gun without harming it. Also, MPro-7 makes a copper remover that blows the competition away as well without ammonia.:wavey:
 
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