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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
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Discussion Starter #1
How do I know the OAL and the Powder charge?
 

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need a little more info, who makes the bullet, cast or jacketed, what caliber, what powder, what firearm?
 
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How do I know the OAL and the Powder charge?
Run them a little shorter. I need to run 40-195G's at 1.240 absolute max to work in my mags in 10mm. Make a primerless dummy round long 1st. Slowly seat deeper until it passes plunk test 2nd. Confirm you can fill mag at that oal 3rd. Work up load from there. I run mine as long as possible while being able to fill mag.
 

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OAL is whatever it takes to case gage, and plunk test in your gun. Maximum is only what will feed thru a magazine.

Charge weight? First need to know what caliber. Powders that work in 9x19 standard loads will not work in 357REM MAG or .357SIG or 10mm, they need low density, high volume, slow burning powders. And then bullet weight and construction. Has nothing to do with geometry. FMJ"s, HiTek coated, powder coated, PolySynTech, moly lead or cast lead. And weight, for example 9mm. 115/125/147/160 grains? All different charge weights.

And don't make up 2,000 rounds off the get go. Crank out 20 or so, and function fire them first before going into full production.
 

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In general, any charge weight will be fine with any bullet wt IF, the bullets are the same construction. The only thing that really changes is OAL. OAL will always be bullet & bbl specific. So regardless of the data, you still have to make the OAL fit your gun with your bullet.
If you are loading a bit shorter than the book, you will need to reduce the charge a bit. If loading longer thant the book, you should be fine, as long as you are not into the lands & it feeds in your mag.
 

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Daca is caca
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If your seating die is set for round nose it will seat these type to the correct depth. But as always make sure you can hand cycle before making very many. These powder coated i i load powder between cast lead and fmj
 

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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
Joined
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
need a little more info, who makes the bullet, cast or jacketed, what caliber, what powder, what firearm?
I sdure would give it to you if I knew! Actually I'm just trying to get some general answers before I even start to reload.
 

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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
Joined
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
OAL is whatever it takes to case gage, and plunk test in your gun. Maximum is only what will feed thru a magazine.

Charge weight? First need to know what caliber. Powders that work in 9x19 standard loads will not work in 357REM MAG or .357SIG or 10mm, they need low density, high volume, slow burning powders. And then bullet weight and construction. Has nothing to do with geometry. FMJ"s, HiTek coated, powder coated, PolySynTech, moly lead or cast lead. And weight, for example 9mm. 115/125/147/160 grains? All different charge weights.

And don't make up 2,000 rounds off the get go. Crank out 20 or so, and function fire them first before going into full production.
Ok. I need to admit I had to look and find what a plunk test was, but it really makes sense with my question. As far as charge weight and OAL, I guess what I was asking was if there's any rule of thumb (like: use a round tipped bullet and subtract X, or something like that. However, the plunk test will tell me what I need to know as far as OAL. I have found some bulk bullets and I don't know the manufacture of them. But, I haven't ordered them yet, either.
 

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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
In general, any charge weight will be fine with any bullet wt IF, the bullets are the same construction. The only thing that really changes is OAL. OAL will always be bullet & bbl specific. So regardless of the data, you still have to make the OAL fit your gun with your bullet.
If you are loading a bit shorter than the book, you will need to reduce the charge a bit. If loading longer thant the book, you should be fine, as long as you are not into the lands & it feeds in your mag.
And this answers the powder charge question. Thanks!
 

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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I'll probably have lots of questions, but what's that saying? Better to ask a stupid question . . .
 

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Wyo, even if you don't know who made the bullets, you know what they are made of. Full jacket, partial jacket, plated, coated or cast lead. That is enough to find a load at the powder makers website. Still need to know what caliber though, just as important.
 

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Yea loading lead and Hi-tek cast bullets I often have to find the closest thing in the manual and start at the low end.

I really like the Lee manual because it typically has a lot of data for lead bullets.
 

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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
9X45 The loads will be for .40 s&w *(full jacket flat tip, just for practice. Probably 165gr). The others are for 10mm (FJF 180gr for practice, and hopefully Buffalo Bore 200gr for bear protection. I hqave a 50th Lyman book, and one of the "one book/one caliber" books for .40 and 10mm. I don't plan to shoot any lead, unless I have to.
 

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Ok, now you know where to look for powder type and charge weight. What press are you loading on
 

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Previously Gary Wilson
Glock 26, Glock 23, S&W K-22, Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Howa .270, Several other hunting rifle
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I just bought a new Hornady lock n load progressive. Haven't even set it up yet because I'm overhauling my bench.
 

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Daca is caca
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Lee turret
Can be used as a single stage manual press as well
 
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Wood butcher
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If you can't find your weight bullet, you can use the next heavier bullet data in the manual and you'll be safe.
 

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If you have not already done so, read the contents of the front part of the books (how-to part). This will give you a good start to understanding the dynamics of reloading. After that and some basic reloading following published load recipes matching all components, you will get more confident and safer. Then you will be able to safely work up unpublished loads for your components, using published data that's close to yours.

Lots of good advice in previous posts. I'd suggest adding these tools:

- get a bullet puller (inertia ones work great and are cheap), because there will be times you make something and find that it doesn't fit the barrel or backward or non-flush primers or your realize you made a mistake. After over 10 years and thousands of bullets 'a friend of mine' still has need of one on occasion.

- get a case gauge for each caliber. After building each cartridge, check it in the gauge. The gauge will tell you if it will fit in SAMMI-spec barrels. Alternatively, for semi-autos, you can check them in the barrel or your gun at the bench. But the case gauge is much easier (and cleaner than a lubed barrel).

Have fun and stay safe. Always something new to learn or try. Forums like this are great for finding ideas about reloading.
 
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