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Field stripping a browning buck mark?

Discussion in 'Rimfire Forum' started by mikecurnow, May 15, 2010.

  1. mikecurnow

    mikecurnow

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    in the manual that came with my buck mark it says to remove the rear site base screw. easy enough, and it takes the allen key that came with the manual.
    Next it says loosen the barrel mounting screw. Anyone know what I use to loosen it? it's not the allen key and i can't see in to tell what it is, and i don't want to start trying different things and mess up the head of whatever it is.

    Thanks
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  2. mikecurnow

    mikecurnow

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    got it, 7/64 hex
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  3. Jason D

    Jason D INFRINGED Silver Member Millennium Member

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    All the trouble I've had with my Ruger, I almost wish I would have went with the Browning.
    Glad you got it figured out.
     
  4. Titurel

    Titurel Brick Eater

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    Nah, the MK's can be a pain to strip at first but in that regard they are still way ahead of the Buckmark which is held together by some tiny screws and star washers. The holes and screws have to be thoroughly cleaned, degreased and loctited every time you reassemble the gun. It is not nearly as rugged as the Ruger.
     
  5. sharpshooter

    sharpshooter Member Millennium Member

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    No they don't. I've never done that and I've put 25k rounds thru mine in 10+ years.
     
  6. Generalcarry

    Generalcarry NRA Member

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  7. Jason D

    Jason D INFRINGED Silver Member Millennium Member

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    Stripping them is easy.
    It's getting my MKIII to shoot with out stove piping that has been a pain in the ***. I think I have the probably solved now.
     
  8. Titurel

    Titurel Brick Eater

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    Mine does. I take it apart pretty often, between 500 and 1k rounds. I have tried replacing the screws and star washers but they still do not hold tight without using Loctite. Using screws and lock washers to hold together a gun is not a great design. If it were not for this issue, I would prefer the Buckmark over the Ruger.