Extraction ejection Issues.
I have a Kimber Pro II that has been giving me some problems.
Originally it would not feed or eject worth a darn. Ball ammo was the best and Semi-wadcutters were the worst.
I just installed a Wilson Combat extractor and a 22 lb recoil spring.
I took it out this morning for a test run.
The 230 Ball fed without issue, the Semi-wadcutters still no go.
Now that it will reliably feed the Ball I still have an ejection issue.
The brass ejects in every direction and not very far. Some goes right a foot or two, some goes left a foot, some even goes forward a foot or two, but most "still" ejects right into my face or bounces of the brim of my hat.
If the extractor was not the problem, what is the cause and how can I fix this?
Thanks
Originally it would not feed or eject worth a darn. Ball ammo was the best and Semi-wadcutters were the worst.
I just installed a Wilson Combat extractor and a 22 lb recoil spring.
I took it out this morning for a test run.
The 230 Ball fed without issue, the Semi-wadcutters still no go.
Now that it will reliably feed the Ball I still have an ejection issue.
The brass ejects in every direction and not very far. Some goes right a foot or two, some goes left a foot, some even goes forward a foot or two, but most "still" ejects right into my face or bounces of the brim of my hat.
If the extractor was not the problem, what is the cause and how can I fix this?
Thanks
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Second what?
Correct, I came here for answers on how to "fix" my feeding and ejection issues. I did not come here to read smart assed comments that have nothing to do with the questions.
I have been told that every 1911 (even a Kimber) can be tuned to run perfectly when given certain techniques and procedures if done properly. I came here for help in defining those techniques and direction on how to do them correctly.
Unlike you, I am not one to give up on a simple challenge like getting a handgun to run smooth. Even if that means I have to send it off and have a professional do it for me.
...and unlike you I am certainly not going to take a non-functioning firearm and sell it to some unsuspecting buying and pass my problem off on to them.
So, I will be nice,
Please, TAKE A HIKE!
After everybody went home last night I went out into the man cave and tore it down again. I wanted to check the breech face and polish it if necessary, but before I tore it down, I chambered a bunch of dummy rounds both slow and fast and watched how they exited the mag and entered the chamber.
The face was not smooth by any means, so I dug out the Dremel tool, some polishing compound and some buffing wheels.
This face is not the best looking in my Stack or Stuff, I can see and feel machining marks.
I polished the hell out of it and got it smooth and shiny, but no way was I going to polish away all the machining makes, but it is "smoother" and nice and bright.
While I had the Dremel out I polished the hell out of the extractor. I had "tuned" it with a file and smoothed it out with some 200 grit but I didn't polish it. It is now bright, smooth as a baby's ass.
Put it all back together and things are looking good. The dummy rounds (both ball and semi-wadcutters) just slip right in (fast or slow). They never did that before. I'm very optimistic.
I'm going to take it out and test fire it later today. It's -19 with 10-15 MPH winds, that's -32* wind chill. It's supposed to warm up to -8 by noon so I will head out then.
Thanks for the help and I think we got it.
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Thanks.
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Hope you have your problem fixed. Some of these guns take a little patience and a little tinkering but are worth the effort in the end.
My son and I are heading out this afternoon to play with his Kimber Camp Guard 10. We've got about the same wind but we're currently sitting at a balmy 10 degrees.
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steve4102, there is one thing you need to check that almost always will help on commercial 1911's. A lot of manufacturer's miss this when making guns. Look very closely at the top of the feed ramp to the chamber, on the barrel. See if the very top edge of the chamber's feed ramp there at the chamber, doesn't have a sharp edge. If it is sharp, that is a problem, and that sharp edge needs to be "broken", i.e., knocked off. Now, and this is important, I do not mean you grind that final edge out, rather the sharp edge needs to be just barely knocked off, and I mean just barely. The fact that you are getting "Smiley's" on your cartridge case is fairly indicative of the top feed ramp edge being too sharp. As the rounds are starting to "tip" or radius from the up angle to the horizontal entry of the chamber as they go into the chamber, the edge on the feed ramp is quite literally digging in to the cartridge case, and slowing down feed speed. If the extractor doesn't have the proper hook bevel cuts and tension(they can be tricky to tune), then between the extractor digging into the brass on the case's extractor cut, and the sharp top edge of the feed ramp doing the same, the weapon will choke on feeding the round. I wish I had your Kimber in my hands, we could have that weapon up and running fine in no time. BtW, back the poundage of your recoil spring off by 2lbs. If it takes a 22lbs spring to get that weapon to load a cartridge, then you are most likely having extractor and feed problems. But don't fret! A 1911 is very tuneable, and you will get it running. If you can't figure it out, find a good 1911 guy, or send it off to be tuned. It will work once all the little minor fitting and tuning is done.
See, now you can be dangling **** like that in my face, now I might have to buy another 10.
I have a Dan Wesson CBOB in 10 and a Rock Island 10 that I had Bobbed and Cerokoted.
I love the 10 and I really love the Bob.
If I can get this Kimber to run flawlessly, I am going to have it Bobbed as well.
Got a photo of that bad boy?
I'm testing it out today.
If I'm not happy, it's all your's, just PM me and we will work out the details.
Thanks.
..and do what?
What do you do with a Dremel on your 1911's, show pictures if ya got em?
Okay.
This is the 1911 I built in Bob Rodger's class. It was my first 1911, that's why the flaws.
This is cranking away with a Dremel; one of several operations we performed with a Dremel:
Moral of the story: only a fool starts changing things on a weapon he doesn't understand. That's speaking as a former fool. I started off exactly as you are now, trying to diagnose and repair a Kimber over the internet, and that led me through years of dismay to Bob Rodger's class.
Having built 1911s, then looking back at the Kimber, I sold it.
Diagnosing and repairing a 1911 over the internet does not work.
Having been "taught" over the internet, teaching gunsmithing over the internet does not work.
There is no shortcut here. You need to learn the 1911 or pay someone who knows the 1911.
It's a Kimber. Sell it.
I guess taking advice and direction over the internet, or in written form, or over the phone only works for those that are capable of learning. Sorry you were one of the less capable ones.
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