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291 Posts
Wrong. It's the original factory alternator.
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75 Posts
If you pulled the intake go back and double check all vacuum hoses and connections. IME, majority of check engine lights are emission and/or vacuum hoses. You should be able to buy a code reader for less than a box of ammo and you’ll be able to diagnose your own stuff, pick up a service manual off amazon and you’ll be set for the next 100,000 miles. Good Luck, You can do this!
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291 Posts
See above. Alt is original factory new. I am only owner.
Bllorights has it nailed.
1. modern technology (check engine light) has not relieved this old timer of periodic eyeballing the fluid levels, checking for leaks, listening for unusual sounds.
2. an auto parts store, Midas Muffler and my mechanic will run a scan for free.
3. usually, the problem is an unscrewed gas cap or the need to replace the gas cap. have replaced mine twice on a 16 year old car.
4. sometimes, if it is the evaporative system, you can run the car at high speed for an hour and put in a cleaner like Guaranteed to Pass Smog and it works. worked twice this last year. light on again. will try to pass smog. if unsuccessful, run the diagnostics again. option 1 - use a machine to clean the fuel injectors without removing. i have saved some good ones from when i had to replace bad ones about 4 years ago. option 2 - unbolt the catalytic converter and clean it in the sink, but have the mechanic do it. why? Because when i replaced three motor mounts this year, i knew, given the car age, there would be problems, was correct, and a machine shop had to help my mechanic in the effort.
1. modern technology (check engine light) has not relieved this old timer of periodic eyeballing the fluid levels, checking for leaks, listening for unusual sounds.
2. an auto parts store, Midas Muffler and my mechanic will run a scan for free.
3. usually, the problem is an unscrewed gas cap or the need to replace the gas cap. have replaced mine twice on a 16 year old car.
4. sometimes, if it is the evaporative system, you can run the car at high speed for an hour and put in a cleaner like Guaranteed to Pass Smog and it works. worked twice this last year. light on again. will try to pass smog. if unsuccessful, run the diagnostics again. option 1 - use a machine to clean the fuel injectors without removing. i have saved some good ones from when i had to replace bad ones about 4 years ago. option 2 - unbolt the catalytic converter and clean it in the sink, but have the mechanic do it. why? Because when i replaced three motor mounts this year, i knew, given the car age, there would be problems, was correct, and a machine shop had to help my mechanic in the effort.
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291 Posts
Replaced alternator, same issue.
Checked for constant drain by using voltmeter between negative battery terminal and negative cable. Shows 11.1 volts !
So IF I'm correct, something is using up all my voltage. Anyone ever use this method of diagnosis?
Checked for constant drain by using voltmeter between negative battery terminal and negative cable. Shows 11.1 volts !
So IF I'm correct, something is using up all my voltage. Anyone ever use this method of diagnosis?
I consider 15 years and 116k miles a normal time to start having to replace parts. You Honda guys get spoiled when all you have to do is put gas in and do normal maintenance
Good luck from someone who drives them until the wheels fall off (20 years and counting).
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37,863 Posts
If you have a multi-meter that can read amps, put that in line between the negative terminal and ground with the ground cable disconnected and the key off.
Like this video...
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13 Posts
Did you check the connector under the manifold that I told you about? I’ve worked at a Honda dealer for 23 years and I know the cars inside and out. If you leave that disconnected it won’t charge and the light will be on. It charged fine before you took the intake manifold off right? You don’t have a draw you have low voltage because your car is Not charging. check the connector it attaches to the brace that goes from the manifold down to the block. I’ve seen this happen before. It’s gray.
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291 Posts
Did that. It read 0.00.
Just had new alternator checked. They said it's bad! Voltage regulator fails test.
Another new alternator on order.
Maybe, hopefully, this is the issue.
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37,863 Posts
Dang...that bites, but as "The Car Doctor" Ron Ananian says. NEW is short for Never Ever Worked....
Lots of luck...
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291 Posts
FYI to everyone:
RBRK nailed it. The particular connector he referenced was the issue. I had it connected, but not snapped together securely. I grabbed it and squeezed and heard an audible "click".
Fired it up and got 14.4.
So a huge thanks to RBRK.
Update. I finally waited until I failed smog testing to run a smoke test on the lines. Replaced three hoses. Passed. AZmercedes was right. Could be a zillion things, usually related to the smog. Happy that I didn't have to go beyond what used to be called an Italian tuneup plus shoving chemicals in the gas tank to burn out carbon deposits.
My state rules are simple. If you don't pass smog and don't own a historic vehicle. there is no limit on what you must pay to pass smog. Missed a bullet this time.
My state rules are simple. If you don't pass smog and don't own a historic vehicle. there is no limit on what you must pay to pass smog. Missed a bullet this time.
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