Electricians/Plumbers tankless water heater.

Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by Adjuster, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. Adjuster

    Adjuster

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    I am considering a tankless. Below is a photo of my panel. Below that is the electrical requirements I would need for my chosen tankless. My panel only has 1 open position but that includes the 2 20amp breakers used for my current tank heater so I guess you could say I will have 3 open positions available. Would I be able to change out what is needed in my current panel to accommodate the tankless electrical or am I looking at a new panel or sub panel situation?




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    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  2. diggy485

    diggy485

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    My wife and I built a new house with two bathrooms, and went with a gas on demand water heater. We did look at the electrical ones, but they required a 100amp breaker.
    I don’t have a lot of input, but the gas one seemed more efficient.
    I don’t know what your requirements are for hot water, or what the btu for the one you’re looking at.
     
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  3. diggy485

    diggy485

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    Looks like you need two 40amp double pull breakers.
    Depending on your wiring, you would have to pull another set of wires. It says it modulates between two heat elements. Kw/hr is a bit high, and gas might be the cheapest option.

    I could have read that wrong, but it looks like it takes two 40Amp double pull breakers.
    For our area that model is about $130 a month to operate under regular use, and our gas one is about $80.
     
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  4. willie_pete

    willie_pete NRA Life Member

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    Is gas an option? Hard to believe, but when I built, the power company did not have enough service to put in two electric tankless heaters so we went with two LPG units and a 500 gallon buried tank outside. LPG also runs the backup generator. Two people use up a full tank about every three to four years; gas stove, dryer,water heaters, B/U generator and gas grill outside.

    So far, they have been flawless.
     
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  5. Lt. Donn

    Lt. Donn PSO Survivor. currently in NW Georgia

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    Yeah, I think you are gonna be short 2 spaces for electrical...you did not post regarding gas...is that an option or no?
     
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  6. Adjuster

    Adjuster

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    Nope no gas for me. All electric. The tankless thing is only a consideration. If it's going to require major/expensive electrical then I will just put in another tank. The thing is I am a single guy in a big house. 1 shower per day then the occasional sink usage. Dishwasher and clothes washer every couple of days. So lets say I use my tank water heater a maximum of 2 hours per day. That means my tank water heater is heating water 22 hours per day for zero reason unless you count wasting electricity a reason!


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  7. diggy485

    diggy485

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    In that case, you’re better off just replacing what you already have. An electric tankless is going to require and electrical upgrade.
     
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  8. Tojo

    Tojo

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    They are not worth the money. Modern tank water heaters are very efficient. You will never recoup your costs back in savings.
     
  9. cbetts1

    cbetts1

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    Get a bid on what it will cost to get it wired by electrician or are you doing it yourself? Add wiring cost to the cost of the unit and plumber install. Compare vs high efficient electric water heater install. Compare annual usage cost. The best part about on demand is that you don't run out of water. That doesn't seem to be a concern of yours.
     
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  10. Caver 60

    Caver 60

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    Will your overhead even carry the increased demand, with what you are now using? You may wind up dimming every light in the house and having power issues with your computer, and other sensitive electronics.

    Better have your electric supplier, or a professional who knows what they are doing look things over.

    ETA Just because you can find space in your electric box to stick in heavier breakers, doesn't mean it's a wise thing to do.

    Edit again. 75 amps is 18,000 watts of 240 volt power. Most home service boxes are only rated for 200 amps. That water heater alone is going to take almost 1/3 of your available amperage, just for it alone.

    Doesn't leave a lot left over for AC, clothes dryer, etc. I can't see well enough to determine, but it looks like your service now may only be 200 amps. Again, get a professional out to look things over.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
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  11. ray9898

    ray9898

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    I have been considering the tankless option. Our WH is around 10yo and is installed in the corner of our laundry which is adjacent to the door with not much room to spare. I'm don't think a replacement will fit since the new standard has a larger footprint.
     
  12. willie_pete

    willie_pete NRA Life Member

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    My two gas fired units are mounted outside to minimize venting issues.
     
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  13. RSCamaro

    RSCamaro

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    For the electric use on the water heater, you could always put in a time clock and relay/contactor to power the water heater as many times on/off that you want. Say 4:00am - 8:00am and again from 6:00pm - 10:00pm for laundry or dishes. Not too expensive and may or may not save you some money. An electrician should be able to figure out the wiring, if not call up a refrigeration contractor.

    ...Ron
     
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  14. RSCamaro

    RSCamaro

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    The electrician part was a joke for those sparkies that are easily offended at their wiring prowess.

    ... Ron
     
  15. datatech2550

    datatech2550

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    Your panel is rated for 30 "handles" and it has 26 currently so it does have room. You would change out the three single pole breakers in the bottom for thin breakers and move them around but it's doable.

    BUT (you knew that was coming) your current tank is wired with 12 awg wire and the tankless requires two runs of 8 awg (bigger) wire.

    ALSO, without opening the dead front we have no idea of the condition of the load center or the wiring inside.

    Short answer, call someone to check the panel and give you a quote to run the new connections for the water heater.

    And remember, tank heaters are actually very efficient in the little engine that could kind of way. They use a much smaller current over a lot longer time to heat the water.

    My own personal opinion as an electrician I would consider a gas tankless but not electric for my home. Just my $.02 and probably not worth what you paid for it.

    Stay safe my friend.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
     
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  16. Wayward Son

    Wayward Son

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    This.
     
  17. flyover

    flyover

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    ^^^This.^^^

    I receive a magazine from a local electric coop. There was an article in it about doing this. It seems that putting a water heater on a timer is becoming a "thing". A well insulated up to date water heater will retain the heat for many hours.

    I don't have my water heater on a timer, I just throw the breaker. I turn it off when I go to bed and sometimes turn it on for a couple of hours or until I leave. I turn it on again when I want to run hot water in the evening.
     
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  18. 83wide

    83wide

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    You sure that's a 200amp panel?
     
  19. ray9898

    ray9898

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    Hmmm....it has been stressed to me in the past by more than one electrician that a breaker isn't designed to be an on/off switch.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019
  20. Resqu2

    Resqu2

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    Unless you can go NG I’d not do it plus I’m not sure you have room left over power wise. These things really use the Juice when there running.
     
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