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ejection tuning glocks

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by TimWarner, Jun 23, 2006.

  1. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    Anyone have any hints/tips for tuning glock ejection? This is for an open gun with a C-more. I've done some basic tuning, but I'm not sure what to look at to get the ejection pattern flatter.
     
  2. 4eyes

    4eyes Provocateur

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    Several things you can try. Don't know if any will help.

    Relieve the ejection port. (Recommended for Carver low mounts)

    Modify extractor springs/try different length spring bearings.

    Try different powders for recoil impulse change.

    Try different bullet nose shape.
     

  3. 10mm4ever

    10mm4ever 10mm Pusher

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    (1) Relieve the ejection port
    (2) Slightly raise the ejector
    I've never done this, but it would seem the most logical route.
     
  4. D. Manley

    D. Manley

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    Tim, Dale Rhea offers a tuned ejector (available on B&B Enterprises website) specifically for the Carver Mounts:

    http://bb-enterprise.biz/item122757.ctlg

    I don't know specifically what mods he does to it but it may be worth getting one just to find out. I'm sure replicating it should not be too difficult.
     
  5. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    Yeah, this is my home build open gun. I'm avoiding any pretuned/kit parts.
     
  6. 4eyes

    4eyes Provocateur

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    Howd'ya keep that round barrel still while you drilled the holes in it? ;)
     
  7. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    2 shallow v dies, one on each side in a small mitutoyo vise(make sure the V-dies are under 40C rockwell). Indicate it verticle off the left side of the barrel hood, then indicate it flat across the length of the barrel.
     
  8. D. Manley

    D. Manley

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    Tim, FWIW...

    I've read some comments regarding Dale's mod and his objective is to have the empties kick straight out in a horizontally flat pattern avoiding any contact as it does so. IIRC, the logic is that they are sometimes hitting the bottom of the ejection port and bouncing back up to the CMore | Mount. He states on the website they are lengthened but whether or not he changes the angle of the ejector itself or reshapes (angles) the contact tip area would be interesting to know.

    I shoot the Hunter version and every now and again I'll get an empty wedged under it using light (115 grain factory) loads. It's never occurred that I remember using 147 grain factory loads and only a couple of times with 124 grain. This being the case, it presents no particular problem for me but I may drop down for one of Rhea's just to have a look at it. I'd love to know (1) if it really works and (2) precisely what changes he's made to it. I suspect it's not too complicated and with your access to the right tools, shouldn't be too hard to experiment a bit. Toward that end, below is a snipped by Dale Rhea from this site:

    http://www.sportshooter.com/gssf/dalerhea_dremeling.cfm

    Getting his 9mm GSSF gun to eject cleanly out from under a low-mounted scope gave Rhea some extra gray hair, and drove a great many of his innovations. One of the weirdest involves extending the ejector.

    "If you've got cases ejecting straight up and landing on your head, try this," says Rhea.

    The ejector on a Glock is a tiny metal stinger supported by a plastic housing (which also contains many of the trigger parts). Remove the metal ejector from the plastic housing and heat it up cherry red. Use a hammer to flatten the ejector out (forcing it to grow longer and thinner) taking care to restore the angle on the ejector before the metal starts to cool.

    "You want it to get about 25 thousandths longer," says Rhea. "Don't worry about trying to harden it; the case hits the ejector pretty straight, and it doesn't get a whole lot of force applied to it."
     
  9. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    I already tuned the ejector, I guess my problem was this: There is a new spring load bearing. Mine was the last "generation" and thin. The newer ones have a very thick head on them. Now my brass kicks out just above 90 degrees.
     
  10. D. Manley

    D. Manley

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    It's my understanding that the older version of the spring loaded bearings are actually the thicker ones, intended for non-LCI ejectors and the thinner ones are the LCI models (post 2001 vintage). I have some of both but have never tried one of the thick-headed versions on my newer (LCI) model guns. Interesting to know what your results are...
     
  11. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    I went from FTE w/SJC scope mount every other round, to being able to speed dump 33 rounds with no hiccups.

    It could be, shooting major9, I just need more extractor tension to extract the semi-sticky cases reliably. Also, I think a stiffer extractor spring helps kick the cases out a little flatter.
     
  12. D. Manley

    D. Manley

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    Here's what the modified ejector looks like compared to stock:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    Yeah, I did pretty much the same thing to mine, except mine is a little straighter I think. To hit the cases up a little higher and help move them out flat.
     
  14. WIG19

    WIG19 Light left on

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    Tim, did you try the 'snip' mod on the SLB Butch showed me on my 34 last time we were at LKP Ranch? If you're coming tomorrow AM to the practice, I'll show you.

    :patriot:
     
  15. TimWarner

    TimWarner Resident Goth

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    I actually use a different SLB. With major loads, the SLB snips itself(smashes/compresses). The SLB I put in has a thicker head, putting more tension on the extractor. This allows me to change the extractor tension by sanding the head of the SLB down a little at a time.
     
  16. WIG19

    WIG19 Light left on

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    You're such a connoiseur - I just snip the thin end. Not pokin' fun either 'cause I know you can clean my clock with one of them dot thingys on top of the gun. :cowboy:

    See ya at Oakdale.

    :patriot: