Difficulty removing Glock components

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by fflpro, Sep 25, 2020.

  1. fflpro

    fflpro

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    Had a really rusted Glock I finally decided to try and resuscitate. Internals all rusted and corroded (2 pin frame, early Gen1). I suspect that 7 years ago (when purchased), it was a police carry, and got wet, then left to rust away. Good news is that the frame and embedded parts in it look ok. But all the original internals (black parts) are done for - pitted and nasty. Sad.

    Not wanting to damage it too much, I spent a great deal of time just getting the main locking block Pin out, which took a lot of WD40/Oil and time, and much wriggling, nudging, and finally was able to remove it with distinct pressure needed from the glock tool - more than any other handgun before (we had some broken glocks at our Advanced Armorers class for example, and they were easy peesy compared to this. This was like being at a dentist and prying molars out. The locking block proved even harder, finally had to resort to using a Glock tool and hammer to tap each Pin hole in the locking block from underneath side to side for a while, until it came loose, mm by miserable mm.

    Then there was the Slide - Even though there appears to be some give in the firing pin assembly (where you press down with the glock tool on the firing pin black spacer sleeve - which is not damaged), that cover plate is not moving, and is being very stubborn! Sure, I can jam a screwdriver in and pry it out, but I'm loath to do this, since it will likely damage the piece, or slip and scratch other parts (yes, Glock is scratch resistant, but...). So far all the tricks other than brute force and leverage haven't worked. Any other thoughts on removing the plate without damage? Anyone have suggestions on leverage/tools that makes this work without wrecking the plate?
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2020
  2. CBTENGR

    CBTENGR

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    Have you tried letting the entire slide soak in a pan of penetrating oil or diesel fuel? It's worth a try. We use to use diesel fuel to get seized generator engines to break free when I was in the Army.
     
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  3. fflpro

    fflpro

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    No, but I may have to on this. Do you find it helps with the cover plate? I could see that working well for the internal components (locking block and pins). The cover plate seems odd - I don't notice rust/gunk there, but there could be a foreign body under the plate. I am loathe to force it just yet. Will continue to apply some gentle solvents and hope it helps!!
     
  4. 'Ol Grandad

    'Ol Grandad Director of civil unrest

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  5. CBTENGR

    CBTENGR

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    I have never had to soak a Glock slide but have soaked plenty of other seized items in diesel. Let it sit a day or two.

    I can tell you I was afraid of breaking something the first time I took the slide cover off my G44. The rimfire slide cover is harder to get off than a standard centerfire slide cover for some reason.

    I think the main thing is to just get the slide apart for now. There is a good chance that you will have to replace parts anyway so don't worry if you have to get ruff with the slide after letting it soak.
     
  6. cciman

    cciman MacGyver

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    CLR, or vinegar-- will not hurt the frame or polymer components (beauty of polymer). Soak overnight. You may even find the metal parts to be fine underneath, and just need to change springs and connector.
     
  7. cciman

    cciman MacGyver

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  8. lineback911

    lineback911

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    May want to consider sending back to the mothership in Georgia for a complete tune up
     
  9. CBTENGR

    CBTENGR

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    As you can see there are many options on what to soak the slide in. The reason I like using diesel is because it is actually an oil and will not remove any oils already present like gas or other cleaners will.
     
  10. Lot

    Lot

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    No pics???