Had a really rusted Glock I finally decided to try and resuscitate. Internals all rusted and corroded (2 pin frame, early Gen1). I suspect that 7 years ago (when purchased), it was a police carry, and got wet, then left to rust away. Good news is that the frame and embedded parts in it look ok. But all the original internals (black parts) are done for - pitted and nasty. Sad. Not wanting to damage it too much, I spent a great deal of time just getting the main locking block Pin out, which took a lot of WD40/Oil and time, and much wriggling, nudging, and finally was able to remove it with distinct pressure needed from the glock tool - more than any other handgun before (we had some broken glocks at our Advanced Armorers class for example, and they were easy peesy compared to this. This was like being at a dentist and prying molars out. The locking block proved even harder, finally had to resort to using a Glock tool and hammer to tap each Pin hole in the locking block from underneath side to side for a while, until it came loose, mm by miserable mm. Then there was the Slide - Even though there appears to be some give in the firing pin assembly (where you press down with the glock tool on the firing pin black spacer sleeve - which is not damaged), that cover plate is not moving, and is being very stubborn! Sure, I can jam a screwdriver in and pry it out, but I'm loath to do this, since it will likely damage the piece, or slip and scratch other parts (yes, Glock is scratch resistant, but...). So far all the tricks other than brute force and leverage haven't worked. Any other thoughts on removing the plate without damage? Anyone have suggestions on leverage/tools that makes this work without wrecking the plate?