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Ba-nan-nah-nuh
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You are saying no to rotating tires? I go front back @10k miles. I replace due to age, cracks, weathered before wear mostly in CO. MN wear, extreme age. (Over 15 yrs) but still fine.
I say that some tires can tolerate it, but think for a moment....

If you rotate and the tires actually DO wear evenly, then in a while you have 4 tires to replace all at the same time.

That's a marketing ploy - one to which I didn't comply even though the suppliers wanted me to post a 5-point or 4-point tire rotation poster for my clients to see.

It generates a lot of business - and a lot of busy work - for a fee for the shops at the same time.

IF you have a certified reason to move a tire from one position to another, I suggest that you start with new tires at the rear and as the previous set of front tires wear out, then ONE TIME - move the good rears to the front and put the new pair on the rear.

For a singular reason, I say that and we can discuss it later if you wanna.
 

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This happened on my way back from Ocotillo wells on Sunday. I was about 220 miles into a 280mile trip. Saw it in the rear view mirror and luckily pulled over. Had all the right tools and was back on the road in <20 minutes! I don't even want to think about how bad it would have been if it blew....
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PSO Survivor. currently in NW Georgia
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IDK...having been a "wrencher" in a previous life, I want to trust the engineers who write the owners manuals...Is the OP saying the Car Manufacturers are in cahoots with the tire people to sell more tires?...I mean every modern car co I am aware of tells owners to front-to-back rotation every 10k miles...and I have been doing just that for 55 yrs of driving, ??...maybe I have been wrong all these years
 

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Daca is caca
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Busted belt.
Ive seen it when i sold tires
 
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I've never wanted to rotate tires...so I don't. Thanks for explaining.
 
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No, I'm religious about keeping them inflated to 36 psi (OEM) and it was only happening at that spot on only that tire...so it wasn't alignment...probably something in the tire broke (belt, I don't know)
Are you letting the tires warm up before you check the temp and set them at 36psi? If you are doing it with the tires cold you have to air them up to around 32psi as the tires warm up the pressure increases, your tires could actually be running at 40psi.
 

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Ba-nan-nah-nuh
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Are you letting the tires warm up before you check the temp and set them at 36psi? If you are doing it with the tires cold you have to air them up to around 32psi as the tires warm up the pressure increases, your tires could actually be running at 40psi.
What type of pressure gauge are you using? Those pencil-type can be off by as much as 10# from each other ---- outa the same box.

I only trust a digital unit I recently bought to replace another digital unit that I lost a while back.

I set tires to the 1/10th of a lb and can do so religiously, every time.
 

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NRA Life Member
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Tires and brakes are two thinks I don't skimp on with my automobiles. Even so there can be problems, even with the best. Pays to be cautious.
I was trained by my elders to squeeze out the last drop of oil out of a container before discarding and the same with tires and brakes. Run the tires till near slick and brakes till you are metal on metal.

My elders were wise on some things but I’ve learned better than to push tires and brakes too far, though I still probably go farther than I really should.
 

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Are you letting the tires warm up before you check the temp and set them at 36psi? If you are doing it with the tires cold you have to air them up to around 32psi as the tires warm up the pressure increases, your tires could actually be running at 40psi.
Always check and adjust tire pressures cold. Don't even let the sun shine on one side of the car before checking.

Pressures will change about 1 PSI for each 10 degrees of temp change. Don't readjust them after driving them.
 

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Don't Jump!
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Not necessarily - it can be cause from a hard impact or (and this has recently become much more of a liability) the age of the tire.

Tire start to age the moment they come out of the molds and their USE-BY date has to be computed from the Julian date of birth on the sidewall.

Tires stored for years on shelves and that get ozone or sunshine or extreme heat on them, are just going bad like milk or bread.

Tire parked on concrete are subject to ozone and if they aren't moved for a long time - maybe a few months, they can create separations too.

"Delamination" is a catchall phrase for the loss of inner tire airtight integrity
It can be from freezing (I had that happen to me once here in Montana)
It can be a manufacturer's defect .. but not very likely.
It's more likely a road damage-thingy.​
This is the best information on tires EVER. Thank you! :number1:

I am happy to hear that you don't rotate... I don't usually rotate either. I rotate my winter and summer tires on my truck when I switch them, But only on the same side (they have directional tread). I remember when radial tires were new, all manufacturers recommended rotating ONLY front to rear on the same side. I have always wondered when they decided that a cross rotation was OK again ( I think that was always the normal rotation with bias ply tires).

And, I'm glad to hear your take on Michelin's. I have owned two sets and was not impressed. I didn't have any problems, just didn't think they were worth the money.

Oh, and one other thing, what the heck has happened to the price of tires! $200.00 is now the norm. That's easily 2x what they cost just a few years ago. I thought that when the price of oil dropped, the price of tires would too, but they went up?! :steamed:
 

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I've never rotated tires in my life on any vehicle I've owned. I can't on three of the cars I own anyway (staggered sizes) but have never seen the need to do it.
 

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Tires are the most important part of your vehicle.
I'd put brakes first, but both are critical.

In this day and age, few will ever experience brake failure. But over decades of driving I've had brake failure three times, and one blowout. The blow out was back in the days of recaps on bias ply tires. I was poor in those days.

Two of the brake failures were with the old single master cylinders, which means total brake failure, except for the so called 'emergency' brake. The blow out was at 70 MPH, but I had no trouble controlling the vehicle. Total brake failure will really get your attention FAST.
 

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Descent Terminated
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This is the best information on tires EVER. Thank you! :number1:

And, I'm glad to hear your take on Michelin's. I have owned two sets and was not impressed. I didn't have any problems, just didn't think they were worth the money.
My take on them, exactly ! .. :thumbsup:
 

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I'd put brakes first, but both are critical.

In this day and age, few will ever experience brake failure. But over decades of driving I've had brake failure three times, and one blowout. The blow out was back in the days of recaps on bias ply tires. I was poor in those days.

Two of the brake failures were with the old single master cylinders, which means total brake failure, except for the so called 'emergency' brake. The blow out was at 70 MPH, but I had no trouble controlling the vehicle. Total brake failure will really get your attention FAST.
I have had 5 high speed (lotsa adrenaline ! :wow: ) blowouts all old Firestones (Firestone 500, Wide Ovals, 721s ) So Firestones are banned now from my fleet, but in the day they were OEM on Fords so I was running a lot of them ..

As to brake failure, I blew the diaphragm in the booster on my 5000# 65 T-bird ... Was exciting until I figured out I went from car brakes to poor truck brakes, but it wasn't NO brakes ... :wow:
 

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What type of pressure gauge are you using? Those pencil-type can be off by as much as 10# from each other ---- outa the same box.

I only trust a digital unit I recently bought to replace another digital unit that I lost a while back.

I set tires to the 1/10th of a lb and can do so religiously, every time.
What has that got to do with a tire pressure going up as the tire warms up?
 
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This happened on my way back from Ocotillo wells on Sunday. I was about 220 miles into a 280mile trip. Saw it in the rear view mirror and luckily pulled over. Had all the right tools and was back on the road in <20 minutes! I don't even want to think about how bad it would have been if it blew.... View attachment 854258 View attachment 854260 View attachment 854262
That tire looks old and dry rotted to start with,,, you should not have even left with that tire on that trailer.
 

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Ba-nan-nah-nuh
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3,776 Posts
IDK...having been a "wrencher" in a previous life, I want to trust the engineers who write the owners manuals...Is the OP saying the Car Manufacturers are in cahoots with the tire people to sell more tires?...I mean every modern car co I am aware of tells owners to front-to-back rotation every 10k miles...and I have been doing just that for 55 yrs of driving, ??...maybe I have been wrong all these years
An F78-15? Do you know how old that tire is?
 

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Ba-nan-nah-nuh
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What has that got to do with a tire pressure going up as the tire warms up?
ANYtime you measure the pressure - cold --- hot -- or in between - they can always be equalized.

Besides, tire pressures are usually rated in cold temperatures unless it states differently on the sidewall.
 
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