Crushing primers

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by ottomatic, Jul 11, 2020.

  1. SARDG

    SARDG Florida's Left Coast

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    Once your load is developed and the plunk test routinely works on your loads, you should be able to gauge and go! For instance, I know that any round that gauges in my DAA or Hundo will work in my Glocks. With my developed rounds, the only OAL check is the gauge sitting on a flat table, and seeing no rounds sticking up on top of the gauge. OAL problems have never happened to me with an already developed round on my presses. Rounds that won't gauge have happened with CBC brass and 147s.

    I wouldn't think you would be routinely out of battery to get light strikes. Is your RSA okay? Light strikes could be a light competition FP spring, or a primer that wasn't fully seated, or perhaps a combination. Did the rounds fire on the second strike?
     
  2. unclebob

    unclebob DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.

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    Contrary to a lot of beliefs a Glock should not fire out of battery. Yes you can pull the slide back a little and hear the striker go forward, but the safety plunger will prevent the striker from completely go forward to set off the primer.
     

  3. rangerhgm

    rangerhgm NRA Member

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    I start by checking powder drop for 5 rounds. If good I load a round, check OAL. Check plunk in my Hundo. Load a few more, check OAL and plunk. If good I start loading.

    Always seems to work for me
     
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  4. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    Maybe I left a couple high primers. I was loading in 20 round batches. I ran them through a hundo but do not remember paying a lot of attention to the primers because of the other things going on.
     
  5. unclebob

    unclebob DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.

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    You have 20 rds. in a hundo. so what else is going on.
     
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  6. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    Thanks for the plunk recommendations. That makes sense. I wanted to make sure I understood what was being said.

    I haven’t had any light strike problems in a while but had 2 during the first 200 rounds of the coated bullets which made me stop to think maybe something the OAL was the issue. I loaded at 1.125”. I went ahead and put in a new 13 lb recoil spring also but did notice that it seems to barely pass the recoil spring test even with the new spring. I thought it did better when I first swapped to the uncaptured rod.
     
  7. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    I was increasing the powder charge .1 gr every 20 rounds to test for accuracy and putting them in an ammo box in order.
     
  8. unclebob

    unclebob DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.

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    So what is preventing you after you have done your 20 rounds at looking at the primers? Or even after you have loaded all the rounds you are doing.

    Don’t know why you are doing 20 rds. For testing 10 at max. 5 even better and doing .2 increments.
     
  9. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    Laziness I guess. I did look but I usually feel all of them also and did not do that this time. I’m still a little skeptical of it being high primers but I have no other explanation. It makes me want to go load some more without any changes to see if I can duplicate the issue. I don’t like unsolved mysteries.

    I loaded 20 so I could chrono 5 of each load and shoot 10 round groups with a few extra rounds of each charge in case of chrono failures. I don’t have a great place to shoot so I usually chrono standing up and sit down for group shooting.
     
  10. Taterhead

    Taterhead

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    They wouldn't necessarily need to be high primers. The key is that the anvils bottom out in the pocket. So a primer seated flush, but not all the way to the bottom could give a failure.

    When I seat primers, I feel for them to bottom out then go for a teansy bit of crush.
     
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  11. George Kaplan

    George Kaplan emeritus

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    That's what happened to me on my first loads. I was using an RCBS hand primer and was being too gentle. I had a couple misfires fired them a second time and they went off. First strike finished seating the primer, second set it off.

    Next batch, I wasn't so gentle and never had another problem.
     
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  12. PattonWasRight

    PattonWasRight

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    A hand primer doesn't cost much, and with a few tries you'll know the perfect amount of pressure

    Don't know if mentioned yet, but the pocket could have its crimp still and that would mess things up. With all that leverage at work, could have smushed and you not know it
     
  13. jmorris

    jmorris

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    It’s the plastic tip on the primer magazine.

    7512AA9B-F05E-4A02-BCB7-8142756DF81B.jpeg

    All of the Dillion’s except the 650 uses the plastic ones like the one on the left, they are keyed so they only go in one direction, you will set it in and rotate it until it drops into the notch, then install the knurled primer shield cap. The one on the right is the brass one used on the 650.

    860540C9-11C3-472D-8398-79A817CFBF26.jpeg

    I can’t say I invented the punch/cup swap via the set screw. That’s how they told me to do it on the SD my Brother and I bought from them 35 years ago. I don’t know if they send two assemblies these days but they didn’t back then so you had to swap them that way.

    B3012EF8-05B6-496E-AB74-6C3135F57757.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
  14. OdinIII

    OdinIII

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    I’ve got a hand primer but these rounds were loaded on a “cheap” progressive press.
     
  15. ottomatic

    ottomatic

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    Thanks.
     
  16. unclebob

    unclebob DFC, MSM, 12 Air Medals.

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    When I bought the 550 40+ years ago it came with the two priming bars. And in the directions said to change them out. But like you, a friend of mine that had a 450 showed me how to change them out like what you do. But when I called Dillon to get a new premier bar was told not to do it that way but to swap the whole assembly out. Just like they will tell you not to use the 650 primer magazine on the 550 and I guess also now on the 750. What I heard was you could set off primers by using the 650 tube on the 550? It looks like on the 750 they made it easier to swap out the primer bars.
     
  17. jmorris

    jmorris

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    One could certainly mangle things other than just the plastic tip.

    The plastic orifice tip is a sacrificial part if the punch/cup gets too high or has debris that don’t allow a primer to set flat. They are used on all of the reciprocal priming systems. The rotary system doesn’t have the issues the reciprocal ones do and uses the brass tip. I still can’t believe they dropped their most reliable primer feed system but that’s a different subject.

    In any case there are 1050 users that do use the 650 magazine because of the brass tip. IIRC @Hoser is one of them but it’s a different design than the SD and 550, even though it is also a reciprocal system.