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Correct Safety Check

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by dusty_dragon, Mar 3, 2012.

  1. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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    can anyone please tell me how to check all internal safeties of the glock with a complete assembled gun, not a disassembled one?

    the trigger safety is selfexplaining, i suppose, but

    how can i find out if the firing pin safety works like it should?

    and what about the drop safety?

    thanks
    dusty
     
  2. ak103k

    ak103k

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    The drop and firing pin safety are basically one in the same. The only way I know to check it, is with the slide off the gun.

    With the slide off the gun and upside down on the table, muzzle end facing away from you, theres a round silver plunger on the left side of the slide. Thats the firing pin safety. If you pull the firing pin back until it clicks, the plunger locks it in place, and it shouldnt go forward until you depress the plunger.

    When the gun is together, the plunger isnt depressed, until the trigger is pulled.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012

  3. H&K 4 LIFE

    H&K 4 LIFE Leonum A Ignis

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    To perform the safety checks properly you will need to at least UNLOAD and field strip the pistol.

    Slide lock check- With slide closed, attempt to depress the slide lock. You should not be able to. If you can, slide lock is in backwards or broken slide lock spring.

    Slide stop (slide release) lever check- Pull upward on the slide stop lever and release. It should move downwards under spring tension. If it springs upwards under spring tension, the slide stop is improperly installed.

    Firing pin safety check- With the firing pin safety plunger at rest, attempt to depress the lug of the firing pin towards the muzzle. The firing pin should not protrude from the breech face. Depress the firing pin safety plunger and the firing pin should protrude from the breech face. Depressing the firing pin safety plunger and gently shaking the slide, you should hear the firing pin rattling (freedom of movement test).

    Drop safety ledge check-
    With the trigger in the forward position, attempt to depress the cruciform of the trigger bar. Trigger bar should not fall to an at rest position.
     
  4. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    These two safeties are totally independent of each other. See http://us.glock.com/technology/safe-action and roll the cursor over the circles in the top illustration.
     
  5. ak103k

    ak103k

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    I stand corrected. I didnt realize Glock broke it down to a drop specific safety. I was looking at what they consider the drop safety, to be part of the trigger function.

    Then again, I suppose that all goes out the window if your one of those people who loads the gun without the trigger being set. :)
     
  6. Keyhole

    Keyhole

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    Note that pulling the firing pin back and releasing it such that it slams into the firing pin safety WILL CAUSE DAMAGE. FYI
     
  7. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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    thanks all, so a check of the FP safety and the drop safety is only possible in the field stripped mode, not in the assembled mode at all, right?
     
  8. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    If you mean that the drop safety won't protect you if the trigger is in the rear (fired) position and the cruciform is on the lower level, you would be correct. However, when the trigger is at the rear, the FP spring is not compressed and the gun won't fire.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012
  9. ak103k

    ak103k

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    At that point, the firing pin plunger is depressed too, so its technically, not "drop" safe.
     
  10. dhoomonyou

    dhoomonyou

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    with an assembled pistol, MAKE SURE ITS EMPTY

    remove mag, triple check its EMPTY

    close slide, point in safe direction, pull on trigger side's without contacting safety in middle of trigger, trigger should not move.

    NOW with EMPTY pistol point in safe direction and pull trigger, shake pistol back and forth, you should hear firing pin floating freely in channel.

    I think this is what you want.

    If not im willing to learn.
     
  11. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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  12. gbhamm2

    gbhamm2

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    Checking the drop safety is easy, chamber a round a toss your gun around for a while. 10 to 15 times is usually good enough for me. YMMV
     
  13. H&K 4 LIFE

    H&K 4 LIFE Leonum A Ignis

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    To the OP, inquiring minds want to know...

    Why not do a basic field strip (not hard at all) on the pistol and perform the safety checks properly?

    Why do you feel it necessary to be able to perform some of these checks with a pistol that is still assembled? :dunno:
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012
  14. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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    if the slide is stripped from the frame i thought it wouldn't be possible to check the function of the little knoll on ther trigger bar that engages the FP safety.

    disassembling i did hundreds of times, that's no prob at all, just thought the FP safety in connection with the trigger bar couldn't be checked propperly that way.
     
  15. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    Perhaps it is because putting the slide onto the frame can actually compromise the safeties. If you eliminate too much of the pre-travel, you can defeat either or both the FP safety and drop safety; this wouldn't show up until assembled. Likewise, if the FP spring is too weak, the trigger spring could pull the cruciform off the upper level of the drop safety.
     
  16. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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    if the connector has the correct angle and i strip the slide from the frame, should the trigger bar lie besides the connector (looked upon from behind the frame) or should it be still hooked in the connector?

    i suppose if you pull the slide only a little way back while disengaging the slide lock, the trigger bar stays hooked in the connector, if you pull the slide back a little further for disengagimg the slide lock, the trigger bar jumps to the right of the connector (due to the curve in the slide) and lies there. should it jump back under the connector while puling the slide from the frame or not until the slide is pulled back on the frame and the trigger resets?
     
  17. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    It takes a cycling of the slide after firing to press the connector inward and allow the cruciform to pop up and the tip of the trigger bar to pop out and atop the guide angle of the connector. If, with the slide off, you press the top of the connector inward, you'll see the cruciform rise.
     
  18. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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    you are my man, you exactly understood what i meant, thanks. :wavey:

    so it is all correct, if the trigger bar lies next to the connector, when the slide is stripped off the frame and the trigger bar won't move inward until a complete new cycling f.e. when the slide is pulled back on the frame, right?
     
  19. bentbiker

    bentbiker

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    I think you meant to say that the connector won't move inward until the slide cycles. The TB stays behind the guide angle of the connector until this happens. When it happens, there is nothing preventing the TB from rising (and with it, the cruciform is then high enough to grab the lug on the FP when the slide comes back forward. As the TB is pulled forward, the connector is then free to snap back with the guide angle behind the tip of the trigger bar and it is again ready to cam the TB downward when pressed to the rear. With the slide off, push the top of the connector inward to see the cruciform rise. Then pull the trigger slowly forward as would happen when the FP lug pulls it, and watch the connector snap back behind the tip of the TB.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012
  20. dusty_dragon

    dusty_dragon

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    exactly, you are right, that was what i meant.

    but that's only the way with my G19

    on my G17 with ghost 3.5 connector, the TB always snaps back INWARD in the connector, but the gun works perfect.

    is that something to worry 'bout?