[UNITED STATES]

Hello folks,

I have a G36 with over two thousand rounds through it and after watching videos on YouTube I decided to completely disassemble the frame and slide to check it out. This being my first time to completely disassemble my gun, here’s my question and sorry in advance if it’s a dumba$$ question. Should I use regular gun cleaner without lubricant for the internal parts and make sure all internal parts are dry before reassembly or will a CLP work? Thanks in advance!

 

[Cracker007]

I actually washed my frame off with dish soap and water then dried it. Not sure how everyone else does it.

 

[dartor]

CLP works just fine, that's all I use.

 

[Mr Meeseeks]

CLP is fine for cleaning, but you will want to dry those internal parts off before putting it back together.

I keep all oil off of the firing pin and firing pin safety. A dry paper towel will clean them perfectly after thousands and thousands of rounds. Use a tightly wound (not cheap fluffy) q tip to get any crap out of the firing pin channel.

The only internal part you’ll really want to leave oil on is the connector.

There’s no need to get too elaborate. Dry papertowel will get most everything clean. The exception is nasty thick carbon that builds up on the barrel hood and breach face. They might need a little solvent or some CLP.

 

[UNITED STATES]

I actually washed my frame off with dish soap and water then dried it. Not sure how everyone else does it.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[UNITED STATES]

CLP works just fine, that's all I use.

Thank you!

 

[UNITED STATES]

CLP is fine for cleaning, but you will want to dry those internal parts off before putting it back together.

I keep all oil off of the firing pin and firing pin safety. A dry paper towel will clean them perfectly after thousands and thousands of rounds. Use a tightly wound (not cheap fluffy) q tip to get any crap out of the firing pin channel.

The only internal part you’ll really want to leave oil on is the connector.

There’s no need to get too elaborate. Dry papertowel will get most everything clean. The exception is nasty thick carbon that builds up on the barrel hood and breach face. They might need a little solvent or some CLP.

Thank you for the detailed reply!

 

[GRR]

There’s no need to get too elaborate. Dry papertowel will get most everything clean. The exception is nasty thick carbon that builds up on the barrel hood and breach face. They might need a little solvent or some CLP.

You might think I'm kidding, but I use canola oil to melt the carbon that you're talking about.

 

[jayglocker]

I field strip the pistol and place all the parts in a sealable cotton bag. Place the bag in the washing machine with delicate washables so they don't get dinged/scratched during the different cycles. After the wash, I let it air dry or in a rush; a hairdryer set to low heat. Then I eyeball every part for carbon buildup. I proceed to remove the slide cover plate to access the firing pin, spacer sleeve, extractor plunger and spring. With an old toothbrush, I scrub everyhing with CLP or Hoppe's # 9. I then use a paper towel to remove most of the excess cleaner/lubricant. Then it's assembly time and check for function, dry firing and racking the slide plenty of time. After about 5-10 minutes of exercising the parts, I reload readying the gun for action. After all, I only clean the piece every 500 rounds or more then I put the gun away.

 

[mtstream]

These threads are a great reminder that even on gun forums the internet is stupid

 

[UNITED STATES]

These threads are a great reminder that even on gun forums the internet is stupid

Please explain!

 

[Mr Meeseeks]

He was probably talking about the post right above his. Don’t do that.

Please explain!

 

[scoose]

Should I use regular gun cleaner without lubricant for the internal parts and make sure all internal parts are dry before reassembly or will a CLP work? Thanks in advance!

You're going to get a lot of different ideas and opinions. No different than a motorcycle or car forum about changing the oil. Everyone has a better way or new idea.

My advice, just keep it simple. Some folks clean parts in the sink with soap and water, some use hoppes. Do what you like best to get them clean and then get everything dry.

CLP is a good general oil/lube.

 

[Rusty Guns]

Just during a field strip depending on how dirty it is I clean the frame with dishwashing soap, tooth brush, and hot water.
Scrub it down rinse, scrub again if needed. lay all parts out on a paper towel to dry. While they dry check the slide, clean it with CLP and paper towel. check the barrel, and run a Bore Snake through it a little CLP on the Bore Snake first to clean and lube. Spray the frame with air hose, lube and re assemble.
That should take care of it for another 5-800 rounds.
Of course that is just my way yours can differ.

 

[mtstream]

Please explain!

There will end up being hundreds of posts that will be all over creation from soap to dishwashers and other automated machines, break cleaners to urine. It’s just mind boggling for this particular pistol. I don’t think most people like that Glock’s instructions are so basic.

Every time you shoot, field strip and wipe the parts down, clean the barrel and brush the gun. Minimal gun oil as instructed.

Infrequently! Once a year or few thousand rounds. Detail strip, wipe down internal parts and clean firing pin channel no chemicals or oil. Long qtip, soft brush or channel cleaning tools.

I’ll admit, if you haven’t been keeping the channel dry, you might need some help from a mild solvent once if you don’t have the channel maintenance kit. But after that, Glocks are simple.

 

[MajorD]

After 2k probably detail stripping the slide and cleaning is not a bad idea. The frame needs detail stripping and cleaning about never! There is no added advantage to detail stripping the frame compared to cleaning what you can reach when fully assembled. I have glocks with tens of thousands of rounds through them that have never had a detail strip of the frame and run perfectly. I have seen plenty of posts here and elsewhere though from people who felt the need to detail strip frames and make some error in reassembly and end up with a gun that won’t run.

 

[LTGro]

And don't forget those magazines. I find them a PITA to take apart and clean and need to constantly remind myself to do this. I use Hoppe's followed by 99% Isopropyl alcohol to get the residual solvent out and then a very light wipe with some CLP followed by a dry rag.

 

[UNITED STATES]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't have disassembled the frame just yet, but while doing so, most of the parts were very tacky. A brownish sticky type residue. Could that be fouling mixed with factory lube? Again, I'm talking about the internal parts in the frame. Don't mean to carry this out, just trying to learn from the experts.

 

[scoose]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't have disassembled the frame just yet, but while doing so, most of the parts were very tacky. A brownish sticky type residue. Could that be fouling mixed with factory lube? Again, I'm talking about the internal parts in the frame. Don't mean to carry this out, just trying to learn from the experts.

No its good that you took the lower apart. I am a big fan of knowing your weapon. So, since you have it all apart get all of the pieces cleaned up the same as you would any other piece in the gun. The tacky brown stuff...is it copper colored or brown?? Regardless it's not hurting anything just get em cleaned up and dried off.

I like to very lightly oil everything when I have it apart ( basically a little oil and wipe excess off ) but there is a spot where you need to drop a dot of oil. You need to put a drop where the connector and the trigger bar meet.

here is a pic I found on the forum

 

[UNITED STATES]

No its good that you took the lower apart. I am a big fan of knowing your weapon. So, since you have it all apart get all of the pieces cleaned up the same as you would any other piece in the gun. The tacky brown stuff...is it copper colored or brown?? Regardless it's not hurting anything just get em cleaned up and dried off.

I like to very lightly oil everything when I have it apart ( basically a little oil and wipe excess off ) but there is a spot where you need to drop a dot of oil. You need to put a drop where the connector and the trigger bar meet.

here is a pic I found on the forum

View attachment 389482

Thanks so much for your response scoose. The tacky stuff is brown, not the copper grease from the factory unless it's just really dirty grease, lol! Anyway, I am glad I took it apart because the parts are incredibly tacky with this clear like brown substance. I'll start cleaning all parts this weekend and again, thanks for the advice along with the pic!