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Cleaner you drop your Glock into?

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by Chevytuff19, Apr 14, 2004.

  1. Chevytuff19

    Chevytuff19

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    I read somewhere on this board a little while ago that there was a cleaner you could put into a bucket, drop your frame in, and simply take it out like 30 minutes later and let it air dry and everything would be cleaned. Anybody know what I am talking about or have any experience with this type of cleaner?

    Thanks,
    Wes
     
  2. Newcop761

    Newcop761 CLM

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  3. Tc300mag1

    Tc300mag1

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    Just wondering not to hijack thread but anyone use it and how does it work?
     
  4. cerberus

    cerberus

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    I would hope no one reading this thread is that lazy or stupid :) Just a good cleaning with the old standard Hoppe's No.9 and some Hoppe's gun oil in bbl. Then use a little Breakfree CLP on the slide rails. Thats all that is needed.;Q
     
  5. DCSO608

    DCSO608

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    I generally use Hoppe's #9 for general cleaning of most of my firearms. Just wanted to give fellow Glock owners a heads up on something I found out today on using it.
    Yesterday, I had 4 of my department's G22's detail stripped, and had many of the smaller parts immersed in a shallow pan filled with the #9. I ran out of time and left them immersed over night.
    This morning when I went in my office I checked the parts and found that the "Slide Stop" levers were void of their black factory finish, and are now a dull gray color. The "Slide Locks" were also stripped of their factory finish and are now a shiny silver color.

    I doubt this has caused any problems with function or reliability, just an alteration from their factory look.

    Just for what it is worth.

    DCSO608
     
  6. RandySmith

    RandySmith

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    Nitrate based solvents (such as the #9) will also eat away at the (silver colored) plating on the trigger bar, some versions of the trigger spring, firing pin spring, firing pin safety, and firing pin safety spring.

    I have not been impressed with the various 'dunking' type cleaners. A few minutes of manual cleaning will yield much better results.

    I have an ultrasonic cleaner that is in need of some kind of solvent. Maybe the product mentioned will work in that application. Ideas?

    Randy
     
  7. MStarmer

    MStarmer In Jail...

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    I've heard that it's VERY hard to get back out of the gun, it gets stuck in the all the nooks and crannies and you end up having to detail strip the gun anyway. In my opinion Hoppes No.9 should stay IN the bore and that's it. I see no need to use anything stronger than maybe Break-Free or FP-10 on any of the rest of the slide or frame. I usually don't have any problem cleaning the slide and frame with nothing more than a few Q-tips. If you don't over-lube to begin with the clean up should be minimal. If I find anything that needs soaking the spray type Break-Free is quite effective.

    I'm not suprised the slide stop and slide lock got the finish ate off, it doesn't look like anything more than paint on those two parts.
     
  8. Newcop761

    Newcop761 CLM

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    I don't know how the Cylinder & Slide stuff works. I use a toothbrush, hot water, and [​IMG]
    or Mpro-7.
     
  9. SAWBONES

    SAWBONES Hoplophilic Doc Millennium Member

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    Dunk-Kit doesn't clean very well without scrubbing. Submerging your gun in it is messy, and gets it about as clean as you'd expect. No substitute for a little elbow grease!
     
  10. myounger

    myounger HrdHatDivr

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    RandySmith, I use SimpleGreen and hot water in my ultrasonic (also in my heated parts cleaner), about a 3 to 1 rato. Keep it in a 4 gal plastic jug/can when not in use. Also lets it settle the crud to the bottom. Use it until its realy nasty looking and does not clean as quick then mix a new batch. Works very well for me, its cheap and does not stink the house up.

    Stay away from that Dunk-it stuff, you cant get it all out.
    And I do detail strip even with an ultrasonic cleaner


    My 2 cents worth

    Mike
     
  11. RandySmith

    RandySmith

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    Thanks for the information. Will give the 'simple green' stuff a try.

    The 'purple power' solvent works fairly well, you have to be very mindful of the cleaning time. It will strip some finishes off.

    Detail cleaning is the best way, when you can do so. I have found the ultrasonic unit to be the most useful on items not easily disassembled - shotgun trigger groups and the like come to mind.

    Randy
     
  12. myounger

    myounger HrdHatDivr

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    Randy, what is the "purple power"? never used that before.
    SimpleGreen is @ 5 or 6 bucks for a 5 quart jug at Sams or Lowes

    Mike
     
  13. RandySmith

    RandySmith

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    It is produced by the Aiken Chemical Company. IIRC, Wal-mart is where I bought it.

    You can see some information about it at: http://www.clean-rite.com
    Spray bottles are pictured, what I have came in a 1 gallon jug.

    Randy
     
  14. bonski

    bonski

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    Dunk donuts, not your Glock.

    Hoppes will eat parts of your Glock, and contains cancer-causing agents.


    Break-free CLP is great for a Glock. You need no other product. Period.
     
  15. Wild Bill

    Wild Bill

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    Newcop,
    You got it right. There's nothing that does a better job of thouroughly cleaning any gun than hot water, a toothbrush and dish detergent. It will strip off all dirt, old lubricant, firing residue, etc. Rinse in hot water, the hottwer the better and air dry. No need for any fancy chemical cleaners. Get some pipe cleaners or Q tips as needed to get in the nooks and crannies.
     
  16. grendelbane

    grendelbane

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    Another vote for hot water and detergent.

    Simple, cheap, effective, non-toxic, environmentally friendly. What's not to like?
     
  17. Duck of Death

    Duck of Death

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    Here's how I clean.

    THE FRAME
    Spray with Simple Green and scrub with a toothbrush.

    THE SLIDE
    Take take it apart and spray with Simple Green then scrub with a toothbrush. Clean the Striker hole with a Q tip. It is important to take the slide apart so it can be properly dryed. Look down the striker hole to make sure none of the Q tip remains.

    THE BARREL
    Spray with Simple Green & run a paper towel patch down the barrel soaked in Simple Green.
    Then a couple of patches with Hoppe's #9.

    THE RINSE
    Use moderately hot water and rinse in the sink.

    THE DRYING
    Use a hair dryer to dry the parts DO NOT get the plastic too hot.
    Push a dry paper towel patch down the barrel until dry.

    THE OILING
    Follow the outline in the manual. I use synthetic motor oil for lub.
     
  18. Glock-N-Fun

    Glock-N-Fun

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    cerberus got it right,just cleaning the glock by hand with hoppes,clp,or any other good cleaner with a rag,small screw driver..etc. is fast and easy enough,keep it simple.water based cleaning junk,hair dryers,curling irons..etc. is not a good idea.
    Also many of the small parts that are smooth(slide stop,striker,triggerbar,safety plunger,pins..etc.)can sometimes come clean without even useing a cleaner.
    Total time it takes me to detail strip and clean a glock if im smok'in is about 20min.,30min.if the energy level is a little low.
     
  19. gudel

    gudel

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    if you use water, can water get into the area between the striker hole and channel liner?
     
  20. Duck of Death

    Duck of Death

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    *QUOTE*
    if you use water, can water get into the area between the striker hole and channel liner?

    That's why the hair dryer is used. You might take time and read my former post again.