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Don't know about the lights, but Midway has the ProChrono DLX for $110.
 
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Florida's Left Coast
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I used to have the "Caldwell Ballistic Precision Chronograph Premium Kit". Broke the unit, but still have the lights.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN5290/?tag=thegunzone-20

I'm considering a ProChrono DLX and thought I might be able to use the lights from my Caldwell.

Seems to me like they would, but wanted to see if anyone else had tried this.
I bought the light kit with my DLX, but have had no need to use it yet. You could go ahead and get the DLX and try the Caldwell lights, I suppose. Get the light kit later if you need to.
 

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Recently got a chrono, so I'm new to using one. Is a light needed indoors? Seems the the only issue I have is too much light if it isn't cloudy.
 

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Depends on what chronograph you recently got but most do require light to work. Not only that but certain types of light are required for them.

They are in essence a stopwatch that starts when the bullet creates a shadow over the first sensor and stops when the shadow is over the 2nd, it then calculates how long it took the bullet to move the distance between the two and convert that to a FPS for the display.

If your in the dark, that style can"t see the bullets shadow because it doesn't exist. Further if you are using fluorescent light, that will also not work, because they are not continuously on. They cycle on and off really fast, so fast you can't tell (60Hz in the US) but a chronograph can.

There are chronographs that can be used in the dark though. Some of the first portable ones used sheets of foil that when hit by the bullet made contact starting/stopping the clock then you did the math based on the distance you had them apart, they are known as Aberdeen chronographs. Sounds like a PITA but they were an improvement over the Boulenge chronograph, that could also be used in the dark. The magneto speed, attaches to your barrel and detects the bullet upon exit without the need for light. The lab radar uses a signal that bounces off the bullet then back to the chronograph as its going down range and performs the calculation on how long the signal takes to get back and the rate of change, that's the velocity. CED has infrared sky screes for their chronograph that actually works better in the dark than it does in light.
 

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I got a prochrono dlx I believe, don't have it here. It was about $120.

I had assumed it used radar at both ends. Didn't realize it was an optical/light sensor.
 
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Took a little while to find them but here are some photos of a light bulb being struck by a hammer, in the dark, using the same "trigger" concept as the aberdeen chrono but triggering a flash with an open shutter in the camera, to capture the split second of impact.

light_bulb.jpg


These days a high speed camera would be better suited to capture bending glass with a hammer but not as easy to come by in 1965.

I have an old prochrono I keep at the farm, good unit but it does require light.
 

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I have used a piece of white poster board and a 90 deg flashlight in the past. If it works on one, it likely will another.

It just needs to "see" the bullet, on a cloudy day you don't even need the screens because the clouds are an ample background.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDToNDyiGQI
I was thinking, what's that input on the side for? LOL! If you were shooting reloads, I find that to be excellent ES and SD.
 

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I have used a piece of white poster board and a 90 deg flashlight in the past. If it works on one, it likely will another.

It just needs to "see" the bullet, on a cloudy day you don't even need the screens because the clouds are an ample background.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDToNDyiGQI
Shoot, I have that same inexpensive chrono and I use it without the screens on cloudless days.
 

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I generally don't have the need to chronograph in the dark but I have a few times and this is the method I use.

chronolight.jpeg


If I had more need, I would come up with a more robust setup but it works for what I need.
 
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