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Chevy 1500 Speaker Problems

Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by USMCsilver, Aug 8, 2012.

  1. USMCsilver

    USMCsilver Boat Life ©

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    I've got an '08 1500 quad-cab w/ the non-Bose system.

    It's got the factory stereo and speakers. They consist of tweeters up by the windshield, front door, and rear door speakers.

    At around 32,000 miles, the right passenger speaker started wigging out on me. Sometimes it'd work, sometimes it wouldn't. I could be sitting idle with it not working, then all of a sudden, it's start again. Or, I could be rounding a curve, and it'd start for me. Sometimes, I'd get lucky and when I started the truck, it actually worked. Most of the time it wouldn't. Oftentimes during my ride, it'd never come on.

    Anyway, I got it replaced under warranty.

    Now, at ~40k miles, the driver's side is doing the same thing. I took off the panel, messed with the connector, and got no static. I wiggled everything, and never got the speaker to come on. I popped the door panel back on, but left off all the trim because I'm going to do something soon.

    What I need to know is this: should I get an OEM replacement due to the tweeters being inline, or should I just get a pair of aftermarkets, keep the factory tweets, and be done with it?

    I've always been the type to run aftermarket everything with a sub or two, but right now, it's not financially feasable to go throw $2k into a system.

    Advice? :dunno:
     
  2. SC Tiger

    SC Tiger Jive Tiger

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    Are you sure it's the speaker and not the head unit?

    I will tell you that an aftermarket will probably be cheaper than an OEM replacement but I can't swear to that.
     

  3. USMCsilver

    USMCsilver Boat Life ©

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    Well, I can adjust the BAL/FADE to all front left and the door won't work, but the tweeter will.

    The same thing happend 8k miles ago with the right.

    I really think it is the speaker.

    I just wanna make sure if I throw some aftermarket stuff in there it'll still work fine w/ the factory tweeters. I have also seen that there ma be some fitment issues that a bracket will resolve.
     
  4. SC Tiger

    SC Tiger Jive Tiger

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    Can't help with whether it will work but try www.crutchfield.com.

    I would try moving the passenger side speaker to the drivers side to see if the failure follows the speaker or the location. It very well could be the speaker - door speakers get a good bit of abuse from the doors being slammed. However, the fact that the passenger side one went out previously makes me think there could be something else (or it could be a craptastic speaker).
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2012
  5. Adjuster

    Adjuster

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    It is very rare or almost impossible for a speaker to fail to the point that it no longer works. There are very few if any parts to a speaker that can fail to the point it will not work. It is more likely a connection/wiring problem and it is most likely the wiring in the boot between the car door and the door frame. This is a common break point for any wires that go to your door. This is an especially well known problem with Fords. Of course speakers can fail and loose sound quality but a speaker itself is almost impossible to just stop completely working. I guess maybe you could squish it with a steamroller might do it. Check all your wiring and connections and I think it will solve your problem.



    /
     
  6. USMCsilver

    USMCsilver Boat Life ©

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    Adjuster -- the main reason I don't think it is wiring is because the tweeter works. The boot makes sense, and I have wiggled it all around, and no difference.

    Plus, it makes no sense as to when it works. It's totally random when it wants to work and when it won't.

    I'm going to hook up a bookshelf speaker, or something, the next time I pull the panel, before I order any speakers. That should determine if the speaker's bad, or not.
     
  7. kensb2

    kensb2 pistol n00b

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    You could also opt for a set of 3 way aftermarket speakers, and disconnect the existing tweeters. I bought my wife a set of Alpines, and a 250 W JL amp to go with it when she had her 03 Dodge Ram. It was a single cab, and sounded great. She had similar problems to you with her OEM speakers. All said and done, including a new Alpine head unit professionally installed, I was out maybe $700. You can always do the speakers now, and add the amp/HU when funds are available. BTW, if you have rear speakers, they are mostly for filler sound, and matter a lot less as far as quality is concerned.
     
  8. BlownFiveLiter

    BlownFiveLiter

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    I'd suspect the wiring before the speaker itself. Ohm out the wiring and see if it has any breaks in it. It shouldn't be too hard to attach a multimeter to both ends of the harness. I'm not familiar with the truck in particular, so whether the power comes from an amp or the head unit itself would determine where you start probing.
     
  9. USMCsilver

    USMCsilver Boat Life ©

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    Well -- I found the problem:

    I got a new speaker from the dealer for $38. When I unhooked the connector from the door's speaker, it was dripping water.

    I blew it out, and replaced the speaker. I'm pretty sure this is why the other one went out me last year.

    So -- if I only have to do this every 3-4 years, I guess it won't be too bad...