[awdxtc]

I was wondering if anyone had some online sources for cheap 10mm brass? Also am I correct on the following......It seems to me it is cheaper to buy powder in person than ordering online due to the high shipping costs. Also what powder are you guys using for HOT 10mm loads?

 

[_The_Shadow]

Most seem to buy the StarLine Brass *-* direct from the manufacture 500 to 1k at a time. Some buy ammo and use the brass after it has been shot!

Powder and primers are usually best bought from local sources unless you buy bulk, most will ship 48 lbs for the one Haz-Mat fee!

I use Blue Dot, Power Pistol, LongShot & 800X for the 10mm

Good luck and be safe!

 

[awdxtc]

Thank you. Also here is a question, how do people load these really hot loads? All the recipes I see are for loads in the 1200ft/sec range, do you just slowly work up to a larger charge weight?

 

[g29guy]

Thank you. Also here is a question, how do people load these really hot loads? All the recipes I see are for loads in the 1200ft/sec range, do you just slowly work up to a larger charge weight?

I can't say to load above max listed loads, but if loads are worked up in a fully supported barrel, the 10 mm has a lot more potential than most calibers.

Be safe and patient

 

[DWARREN123]

I like Starline brass either from Starline or MidWay USA.
IMR 800-X is my favorite powder but you almost have to hand weight each charge, second choice is Hodgdon's Longshot.
Powder has a HAZ-MAT and S&H fees when shipped, buy local if possible.
I will not suggest to over load but I have been know to with IMR 800-X in 10mm, go slow and be careful. :supergrin:

 

[awdxtc]

Any experience with blue dot powder?

 

[_The_Shadow]

I like Blue Dot and it has been a mainstay for me. Has provided me with very accurate loads over a wide variety of cartridges...

My first 10mm loads were 170grain Hornady JHP over 11.2 grains of Blue Dot in 1990 for my S&W1006 (I don't think they called them XTPs back then)

I shot many cast 175 grain TC over 10.2 grains as a target load.

I use Blue Dot in the 10mm/40S&W/357Sig/9x25Dillon and many other cartridges and 12ga shotshells.

I do also use Power Pistol, LongShot, AA#7, AA#9 and now trying 800X, that is what handloading is all about testing what works, perfecting the loads to perform with various bullets!

 

[awdxtc]

What makes the powders different? That is to say what advantages or disadvantages does one powder have VS. another and how do you know?

 

[_The_Shadow]

The powders in their formulations (chemically, flake or granullar size and deterent coatings) determine the burn rate and characteristics like gas pressure generated by the burning composition. Here is a burn rate chart link; http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html

Most of the powders listed for 10mm are very close in burn rates, but can produce very different results using charge weights that are vastly different.

Powders can be single base or double base for pistols, this is the chemical makeup of nitroglycerin (single base) and nitrocellulose (double base), most powders don't specify their base anymore which is a damn shame. Older data did make distinctions of one from the other.

Blue Dot is a double base powder.

 

[21Carrier]

I was wondering if anyone had some online sources for cheap 10mm brass? Also am I correct on the following......It seems to me it is cheaper to buy powder in person than ordering online due to the high shipping costs. Also what powder are you guys using for HOT 10mm loads?

I get mine from MidwayUSA (Nickel Starline) or directly from Starline (brass). I use Unique for light loads, Power Pistol for good metering, medium-hot loads, Blue Dot for big boom/flash from G29, or medium-hot in long barrels, Longshot and 800-X for maximum power stuff.

Thank you. Also here is a question, how do people load these really hot loads? All the recipes I see are for loads in the 1200ft/sec range, do you just slowly work up to a larger charge weight?

Slow down! Get the required stuff, make a bunch of light and medium power stuff, and THEN we will happily lead you down that road. You will need to learn the Water's Method, but it's really premature to start explaining that. Basically, it involves measuring brass expansion, but I'll be happy to explain it in detail later on, once you get started reloading. To start, go with published load data, and start low. You like your gun and hands, right? You will get to the insane stuff, but give it at LEAST a few weeks first! :supergrin:

Any experience with blue dot powder?

I really like Blue Dot. The accuracy is great, the recoil is pretty mild, and it makes great velocity in longer barrels. In shorter barrels, it makes huge fireballs, and is a lot of fun.

What makes the powders different? That is to say what advantages or disadvantages does one powder have VS. another and how do you know?

There are MANY things that make powders different. The first, and most obvious thing, is flake type and size. Some powders, like Power Pistol, have very small flakes, while some have very large flakes (like 800-X). There are also ball powders, flake powders, and extruded rod powders. Each has somewhat different characteristics. Powders also have different burn rates, and densities. All of this needs to be matched to the bullet, cartridge, and barrel length.

Get a good reloading manual, and you will learn all you need to know about powders. We can help you select good powders. I think the best learning powders would be Blue Dot or AA#9. They are pretty bulky, and would be hard to double charge. If I had to recommend three, I'd say Blue Dot, 800-X, and AA#9. Later, when you get used to it, you can use denser powders like Power Pistol and Longshot. They are dangerous for new loaders because they are dense, and easy to double charge.

 

[awdxtc]

Thanks guys. What do you mean by double charge? Can you recommend a reloading manual?

 

[21Carrier]

Thanks guys. What do you mean by double charge? Can you recommend a reloading manual?

A double charge just means you put twice the amount of powder. For instance, if you meant to add 7.5gr, but you accidentally actuated your powder measure twice, and now have 15.0gr of powder in one case. That's a recipe for a KB. With dense powders, you can do that and it fits inside the case. You may not even notice it. With bulky powders like 800-X or AA#9, the powder would overflow, and you will notice it before seating a bullet.

I like the Hornady manual, but there are hundreds of decent ones out there.

 

[awdxtc]

Thanks, I will order one tonight. So if you were extremely careful, say to weigh each charge that would avoid a double charge? I know that is not something that someone is likely to do when trying to turn out 500-1000 rounds, but that would eliminate the problem correct?

 

[Mootness]

How are you charging your cases? Volumetric? Automatic scale combo?

 

[awdxtc]

I have not started reloading yet, so I am really looking for advice and suggestions.

 

[Mootness]

RCBS Chargemaster, expensive, but doesn't care what the shape of the powder is. Come on over & check it out.

 

[_The_Shadow]

The powder scale is going to be the most important part of your handloading, sure you could work with things like dippers from LEE for some target loads.

When I work at the exteme edge of the upper performance I hand weigh every charge weight for a match grade quality...it just has to be precise!

I have two scales the RCBS 5-10 beam scale that has served me since mid 70's and a Frankford Arsenal digital, both agree with each other and the scale weights. The beam is great for trickling powder to percise weights.

The digital is good for quick comparisons like weighing unknown items, but it requires re-zero re-sets often.

When it comes to scales you need the best you can afford that is accurate and you can trust you life with.

I also use the RCBS UniFlow powder drop set to drop very close but I scale the charges to perfection.

 

[awdxtc]

So what do you think the best scale is?

 

[loneeagle]

I was given a Frankford Arsenal digital scale for my birhtday from a buddy but I am going to order a RCBS 5-0-5 scale this week I wont be loading nothing but 10mm so I think the 5-0-5 will be great. being new to reloading I have about got all the gear together to start.

 

[21Carrier]

Thanks, I will order one tonight. So if you were extremely careful, say to weigh each charge that would avoid a double charge? I know that is not something that someone is likely to do when trying to turn out 500-1000 rounds, but that would eliminate the problem correct?

So what do you think the best scale is?

There are two ways to measure powder. First, is using a scale, and weighing each charge. I only do that when working at the limit, or when using 800-X (because its large flakes don't work well with option 2). The second option is to use a powder measure. A powder measure is a mechanical device that is either bench-mounted or press-mounted, and automatically dumps a preset amount of powder into your case. I use a Dillon powder measure with my Dillon press. Each time I pull the handle on the press, it dumps a preset amount of powder into the empty case. This makes loading lots of rounds quick and easy.

Before you start, you have to set the powder measure to throw the right charge, and you should hand weigh every so often. I usually hand weigh the first 5-10 charges that come out of the measure, then every 5th or 10th round after that, just to make sure it doesn't change. Also, realize that there can be some variance, so don't use this method at the limits. For example, if you set your measure to 10.0gr, you might see variances of 9.8-10.2gr, or more or less, depending on the powder used. Some powders meter better than others, and are more consistent.

If you will be using a progressive press with a press-mounted measure (the fastest way to load, and what I use), you have to be careful at first. If you mess up something, like forget to put a primer in a case, or don't seat a bullet, you have to go back and do it again. If you forget to remove the charged case from the powder station (the case that already has powder), and you pull the handle again to correct your mistake, you will add another measure of powder to that case. That would be a double charge, and if you're using a small charge of a dense powder, it might all fit in the case, and you would never know.