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Currently I have a carbine length govt profile barrel on my Stag upper. I would like to change the barrel to a light weight mid-length. Do I need to change the buffer or buffer spring or both and what weight of buffer/buffer spring should I start with? Thank you
 

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Whenever I install an AR barrel I always contact the manufacturer about this and ask for their recommendation. They almost always know how their guns are gassed.

Keep in mind that gas ports get bigger with use/over time as well so you have to make some allowance.

Its very common on the internet for people to tell you that you should run a heavy buffer...an H or H2.

The military adopted these in full-auto guns to slow the cyclic rate of the M4 carbine as it was having feeding issues on full auto. Same with the M4 feed ramps. In semi-auto both of those tings are meaningless. But they are MILSPEC...so the parrots have to have them....BRAWK! BRAWK! Gotta have MILSPEC.... BRAAAAWK!

This is not required for a semi-auto. It may make it recoil a little less. But it also can make the gun less reliable DEPENDING on how its gassed. I personally have no desire to push the limits of the operating parameters of my rifles to the edge of reliability to shave a few ounces of recoil from the brutal 5.56 round... :crazy: Nor am I a top ranked three gunner who needs to shave 1/300th of a second off my time. A standard carbine buffer/spring is always my starting point with all my builds including any mid-length system. You can progress up in weight from there but the more weight you put behind that bolt the more likely you are to induce a short stroke and they rarely show up when the gun is clean and oiled... And no, a standard carbine buffer will not beat your rifle to death and cause it to fall apart.
 
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