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Native Mainiac
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I just turned a 50# roll of flashing into ingots. I was kind of surprised that when I opened up the thing, it was pretty shiny. Everything seemed to pour OK and looked good, but is there any zinc on new lead flashing? I have another roll and don't want to waste my time. I'll cut open an ingot and use my LEE hardness tester in a day or two to see what it looks like.

Anybody know if there is a film of zinc on the stuff or is it just the oil that keeps it shiny??
 

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I'm not sure. When I've had a question about alloy, I've sent a sample to a user at CastBoolits to do an XRF scan. His handle is BNE and he will take payment in the form of a small amount of lead.

If it doesn't look like oatmeal, it is probably fine.
 

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Native Mainiac
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not sure. When I've had a question about alloy, I've sent a sample to a user at CastBoolits to do an XRF scan. His handle is BNE and he will take payment in the form of a small amount of lead.

If it doesn't look like oatmeal, it is probably fine.
Thanks. Think (hoping) that it's fairly pure lead. Ingots looked good except for the first batch when the mold was still on the cool side. Bad thing is I only got a little bit of linotype to harden things up a bit, and my source for that has dried up.
 

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I have one mold I use as my "standard". With "certified" lead it drops them at 230 grains, clip on wheel weights drop 232 grains, pure lead drops at 240 grains and silver solder drops at 210 grains. I cut in Linotype to the heavy ones to make them lighter and harder.

If you have a mold, just cast a bullet with known lead and weigh it, then you can use that as a reference.
 

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Thanks. Think (hoping) that it's fairly pure lead. Ingots looked good except for the first batch when the mold was still on the cool side. Bad thing is I only got a little bit of linotype to harden things up a bit, and my source for that has dried up.
My understanding is that it is about pure too. Could post a WTT ad on Castboolits for the alloy you want. Those that cast for front stuffers like the pure stuff, as you know.
 

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Thanks. Think (hoping) that it's fairly pure lead. Ingots looked good except for the first batch when the mold was still on the cool side. Bad thing is I only got a little bit of linotype to harden things up a bit, and my source for that has dried up.
Adding clip on wheel weights will do well if you quench.
 

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If there were zinc in it it wouldn't be as pliable. Roofing lead should be near pure. Pure will work for low pressure stuff like 38sp but as you push to 20k psi, you want a harder alloy to keep the bullet from deforming & skidding. Go 1-1 with clip ww & you get a decent alloy. 2-1 ww-pure better still.
 

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Flashing should be pretty close to pure lead. It should bend very easily. I would trade you some of your flashing for my monotype if you would like so you can harden your alloy.
 

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Flashing should be pretty close to pure lead. It should bend very easily. I would trade you some of your flashing for my monotype if you would like so you can harden your alloy.
I sent you a pm. I have about 500# of pure in 1# ingots. I could use some monotype.
 

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Hey FullClip that stuff is pure lead. I use it in my cap and ball revolvers. I have a mason friend who saves it for me when he works on chimneys. I’d mix it with some lead shot(high antimony),some solder which is mostly tin nowadays and enjoy. If you don’t want to fool with it i’m sure you’d have no trouble getting someone to trade you for some wheelweights. If i was closer i’d gladly trade you for it. Google the Lyman #2 recipe :90% lead,5% tin and 5% antinomy.
 
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I mix two # of lead to 1# of magnum shot with a couple ounces of 60/40 solder. This alloy is used for all of my pistol cast and most rifle bullets except those that I push to just below 2000 ft/sec.
 

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I mix two # of lead to 1# of magnum shot with a couple ounces of 60/40 solder. This alloy is used for all of my pistol cast and most rifle bullets except those that I push to just below 2000 ft/sec.
Are you buying lead shot to alloy with? I find shot diff to work with compared to say buying lino & then don't bother adding expensive tin, JMO.
 

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A friend of 43 years passed and he gave me all of his shot before he died consisting of over 250#. A company that I worker for in SoCal used to ship me all of their scrap as it was cheaper than hazmat disposal in Cali.
Shot is easy to work with, just skim off the graphite as it melts.
 

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.....Anybody know if there is a film of zinc on the stuff or is it just the oil that keeps it shiny??
what does the film look like, melted some recovered shot that was coated with graphite that had a dark "rainbow" appearance on the top of the melt, wasn't an issue with a bottom pour.
 
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what does the film look like, melted some recovered shot that was coated with graphite that had a dark "rainbow" appearance on the top of the melt, wasn't an issue with a bottom pour.
The rainbow is just the pure lead at high heat.
I generally like to use mono or lino for alloying. It just goes together so much easier.
 
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